Pac bay rainforest spinning 721-2. The ferrule on this thing is an tip over butt type ferrule. The butt goes into the tip about 2 inches, maybe slightly less, is this enough? The joint seems to hold the sections together well and solid. Theres no "wiggle" or shaking around in the ferrule. It´s just that on all my other rods the joint seems to be "deeper", of course they are also older rods than this one. Another issue of conserne is that with proper guide spacing the ferrule joint is located right in the middle of the sectoin between the butt guide and the next guide from the butt guide. In other words, just where the weakest spot would be right? Is this going to be a problem? I did tape the guides on (on their right places) and wrapped the ferrule and put some bend on the rod (not a serious bend though) and it looked like there was no serious bend or stress in that partckular section where the ferrule is located, but there will be maybe more bend with a good fish. But most likely I´m not going to catch anything bigger than about 6 lbs with this rod. Well if someone more experienced would share their knowledge I would be most grateful. Later ... Kim

You have no problems that I can see. Get you wrap as close to the end of the ferrule as you can to prevent a split from starting and you should be good to go.

The rod manufacturer knew what they were doing when they designed that rod. A guide does not have to sit on or near the ferrule to strengthen the union. And actually, flex prevents a brittle failure. That is one reason why the ferrule is almost exactly BETWEEN the butt & next guide, rather than have a guide sit right on top of the tip-side of the ferrule.

You DO need to keep the female ferrule wrapped while testing the rod, as you have done. You can wrap it without fanfare for testing. Don't bother sealing it. Test until your guide spacing until that is settled. Then remove that wrap (don't slice the blank!) and do your permanent female wrap along with your guides. Opinions vary as to how long the wrap should be over the female ferrule. Tom Kirkman says that a width equal to twice the blank diameter at that point has served him well for 20 years without a failure. (See TK's book, "Rod-Building Guide", page 33.) I once had a boron rod (which is more brittle than graphite) break just above the full depth of the female ferrule, so I want to re-inforce that end a bit. So, I wrap all the way up the overlap, plus at least one more rod diameter (but not more than two diameters). I don't want to create another spot with too abrupt a change in flex.
Example: 2" male-female overlap + 0.5" blank diameter = 2.50" wrap.

If you haven't gotten Tom's book yet, I'll also tell you to start the permanant wrap of the female ferrule at the mouth and move toward the tip. Pack the thread down toward the mouth. Only leave the very first 1-2 millimeters uncovered. You don't want the thread to be so close to the edge that it rolls off, or is likely to get scuffed in use and damaged from repeatedly laying the tip mouth down somewhere (which you should never do, lest debris foul the ferrule). And you need that bit of space to leave room for the thread finish to cover and protect the wrap. DON'T get thread finish inside the ferrule. Avoid that completely by wrapping the ferrule while joined, if possible.

As long as you don't high-stick your fish when fighting or landing, have a smooth reel drag and don't use your rod as a crane boom on 6 pound fish, your ferrule should serve you well and not fail.

Keep the ferrule clean & dry and free of any grit. The opinion on ferrule lubricants is to use those designed for rods that have a teflon powder with an evaporating carrier, or use nothing. ... I use a TINY amount of high-quality talc powder, like J&J (NOT cornstarch) or shiny-silvery graphite flake, like the key lock-cylinder lubricant. I put it on generously, then blow off all the excess that doesn't stick. Assemble and twist to rub the powder in. I only want the absolute thinnest sheen from the powder, not some fluffy mess. I wouldn't even call it a film, that would make the ferrule much too tight. Just the least trace to reduce friction and fill the micro-valleys inside the walls of the tunnel, not cover the tops of the mini-ridges. And even that I only do after several trips, because it is too easy to use too much or not notice a build-up if too much is used.

Sounds like you are really thinking ahead, Kim, and have a great rod
in the making. Best Wishes, Cliff Hall .

The greatest amount of stress on a rod will always occur exactly between any pair of guides. This is why many rod builders choose to locate a guide directly on top of the ferrule junction. However, unless you are simply using far too few guides, having the ferrule between a pair of guides is not a recipe for disaster.

As ferrules have gotten better, the amount of overlap has decreased. I think you're in good shape and wouldn't worry about the ferrule being weak. It's not.

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I am new at rodbuilding.org and i would like to know if black satin nitinol, a titanium chrome alloy, can be use to make a set of Leonard step down ferrules.I know a hard metal machine shop that is ready to make it but i am not sure of the change it will make on the rod action. The blank is a 7fts. baby catskill taper. What do you thing of it.

I am new at rodbuilding.org and i would like to know if black satin nitinol, a titanium chrome alloy, can be use to make a set of Leonard step down ferrules.I know a hard metal machine shop that is ready to make it but i am not sure of the change it will make on the rod action. The blank is a 7fts. baby catskill taper. What do you thing of it.

I am new at rodbuilding.org and i would like to know if black satin nitinol, a titanium chrome alloy, can be use to make a set of Leonard step down ferrules.I know a hard metal machine shop that is ready to make it but i am not sure of the change it will make on the rod action. The blank is a 7fts. baby catskill taper. What do you thing of it.

I am new at rodbuilding.org and i would like to know if black satin nitinol, a titanium chrome alloy, can be use to make a set of Leonard step down ferrules.I know a hard metal machine shop that is ready to make it but i am not sure of the change it will make on the rod action. The blank is a 7fts. baby catskill taper. What do you thing of it.