I've prepped & painted a blank and am ready for the final finishing. I have a can of Minwax Spar Urethane and wondered if and/or how I should thin it before application. Does it even need thinning? I've done a search of this site and I think I read that you should thin with mineral spirits, but I want to be sure before I go mucking with it. I plan on applying with coffee filters or cheese cloth (both are lint free). I've got a little time as I still need to wet sand the paint before application of the spar. This is my first full blown re-finish job and so far I've enjoyed it. Jay

If the varnish is fresh, I think you can get by without thinning it.

Let me throw out another method that you may find to work very well. Get one of the cheap foam brushes you find at most paint or hardware stores. Get the ones with the black foam - the grey foam may not withstand the urethane without melting. Now saturate a corner of the foam brush, push the blank tip through the foam, and draw the brush down the full length of the blank. Just one pass and let dry for a couple hours or so.

If you want more depth, repeat with a fresh brush or fresh corner for one additional coat. You may want to try this on a junker blank just for practice, but I think you'll find it to be very easy and quick and it doesn't leave any marks in the finish.

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and here is another option that i have used with great success. get some latex surgical type gloves. dip you thumb and forfinger into the varnish and rub it on. goes on very thin and smooth with no brushmarks. takes a couple of applications with a light steel wool (0000) scuff. looks great. after drying for a day go back and polish with some polishing compound followed by some mcguires (sp) scratch remover polish (comes in a tube).

You can thin the Helmsmen with mineral spirits, but make sure to strain the mineral spirits before mixing. I have found that many brands contain fine particulate that will mess up your finish. You can also thin about 15% with Penetrol which is what I do for dipping cane rods.

Here are two other options for applying if you want gloss:

1. Use a small jar or container with a hole at both ends. Stretch a surgical glove or similar rubbery material over one end and poke a tiny hole in the glove. Fill the vessel with thinned varnish and pull the blank through from below.

2. The Helmsmen comes in a spray can, and it is pretty decent. Just go thin and use multiple coats.

In my opinion, if you want a matte finish (which you might) you are better off using gloss finish and buffing down to matte. The satin finishes work because they have particulate in the mix, and that is not optimal in my opinion for a blank. It settles out and is inconsistent.

If you truly want a wipe on finish you might also want to consider Armor Seal wipe on PU. It is fast drying and meant to be applied by hand. Or, you can make my favorite wipe on varnish: one part spar, one part pure tung, and one part turpentine. Works like a dream, a nice semi gloss finish.

I would suggest useing Helman in the spray can.. Thanks Dave

Tom,

I like that! Do you think that it would work with paint? or maybe with paint/pigment added to the urethane??

Mike

I used the foam brush on my first coat. I also did not thin the spar as it was a new can. Seemed to go on fine. I'll know more when I get home later tonight. Hopefully I will be able to wet sand and get the second coat on before I hit the hay. This blank is actually from the second rod I ever built. I was never very pleased with the size and spacing of my underwraps plus I needed one additional guide on the tip. This will allow me to rewrap with a little more experience than I had then. Thanks everyone for their input. Jay

In MHO this is the best thing to use on a blank for a clear coat. Does not need a flex additive can also be thined out no yellow tint gives time for flow [www.autopaintdirect.com]

Bill,

There are three products on the link page you posted. Which product were you refering to? Thanks for the info. Jay