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Varnishing a G. Loomis?
Posted by: Gary McClain (---.dialip.mich.net)
Date: February 22, 2002 08:22PM

Recently tried to varnish a G Loomis blank at the request of a customer. The varnish wpuld not set up. Had to scrape it with a credit card.

Two questions: 1. Why would varnish not set? and 2. Other than my credit card, what could I have used to remove the varnish without damaging the blank?

Peopleat Loomis were not very helpful...Can anyone provide insight?

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Re: Varnishing a G. Loomis?
Posted by: Rich Margiotta (---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: February 22, 2002 08:32PM

How did you apply the varnish? Did you put it on too thick? Also, did you scuff up the existing finish with 0000 steel wool or 800-1000 grit sandpaper? Did you wipe it down well before you applied the varnish with mineral spirits? Finally, is there a source of silicone contamination in your work area?

--Rich

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Re: Varnishing a G. Loomis?
Posted by: Mike Ballard (---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: February 22, 2002 09:29PM

Loomis doesn't recommend you alter their finish in any way. Might be why they weren't very helpful! It also voids your warranty.

What type varnish did you use? I only Permagloss when putting a clear finish on any blank. Tom Kirkman passed on a tip from Ralph O'Quinn and that is to put a kettle of water on the stove and boil it and keep some steam pumping into the room. Seems some of these urethanes set up from moisture in the air and that will really dry them quickly!

Also the article in Rodmaker about using cleaning first and then using Scotchbrite to scuff and create the static charge might help your finish adhere better. I'm no expert in this area but my blank finishing jobs do seem to set up nicely.

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