What in the world was I thinking?

I bought it locally before I started reading all of the info on this board, and decided that since it turned out OK for the underwraps (scraped most of it off after it had soaked in using a credit card), and I haven't received my UPS shipment yet, I'd go ahead and use it for the top coat.

Thankfully I started on a guide instead of the butt wrap. I'll be stripping it off tomorrow.

Will LS Supreme do ok over a Flex Coat coated underwrap?

Yes Supreme will do fine over the Flex Coat.

You need to be aware, however, that since Flex Coat works so well for so many builders (I have used it with perfect results on thousands of rods) that your problems may continue since it appears to be one of technique and not product.

Flex Coat holds the number one spot where rod finishes are concerned due to several reasons, two of which are its ease of use and the excellent results it provides.

Supreme is also an excellent finish and perhaps it will suit your personal finishing technique better. But all rod builders have to be careful about blaming finishes for finishing problems. I am not aware of any popular 2 part epoxies which are inherently problematic. They all work well and give excellent results when properly used.

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My problems weren't *that* serious, just a few bubbles that wouldn't release. This morning, the finish is nice and smooth, and if it weren't for those few bubbles, I'd be satisified. I think if I'd used regular flex-coat instead of high build, I would have been ok.

Maybe if I'd had more experience with finishes I wouldn't have had a problem, but the high build doesn't seem very forgiving.

I probably shouldn't say this but I abuse flex coat all versions with no problem,best advice I could give is pratice untill you have a system of application that produces good consistent results and stay with it.
John

Flex Coat comes in two versions I am aware of, the regular and the "lite". I always used the regular as you can obtain just as thin a finish with it as you can the lite version.

Next time, try this. After you have coated all the wraps, use the gentle flame from an alcohol lamp, or a butane lighter if that is all you have, and hold the flame 2 or 3 inches under each wrap. Slowly move the flame to and fro while you rotate the rod. Don't get the finish too hot, just gently warm it and you will see the bubbles rise to the surface and leave the finish. You need to do this before the finish gets tacky - certainly within the first 20 to 25 minutes after mixing.

Just remember, don't let the flame touch the wraps/finish and warm only enough (2 or 3 seconds per wrap is usually enough) so that the bubbles expand, rise and release.

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My two cents: If you are in rodbuilding for the long haul, I would recommend Doc Ski's video on custom rod building. Since most of his rods are used for some heavy saltwater fishing , he would be the first to complain about the use of Flex Coat CP and finish. However, in his video he states that he uses CP on all his wraps and demonstrates how he goes about applying the finish and getting rid of bubbles.