Decal connection recommends that you put down an epoxy base for their decal. Is there anything else that will work? I see this adding an extra step and an extra day to the finishing process. Thanks.
Marc

You got to put several coats of clear on the butt wraps so if the space is near that just give that space a coat also.

Maybe something to experiment with; I'm new to the waterslide decal-I've only done it twice, so far. Both times I used Ralph O'Quinn's ideas on preparing a bare graphite unfinished blank and applied the decal directly to the bare, prepared blank. Both times after the finish was dry, the decal appears beautiful and perfect to my eyes under a magnifying glass.
I was willing to strip it back down and redo it in both cases if it didn't work. If I'm in a tough time frame, I'm not going to take this chance.

I also, in both cases, applied the finish within one hour of applying the decal. I know Jimi says to wait 24 hours, but I was willing to experiment again. And again, if I have to get the rod out on a time frame, I don't think that I'd be willing to take this chance. Not until I've done this with no problems a lot more than the two times that I've gotten away with it so far.

Putter

I have a picture posted of the first one I did if you'd like to look. Its titled Shikari/Prodigy Project Done.

Reason for first coat of finish over matte blanks. The clear portion of the decal will act as a mask over the covered portion of the blank, if finish is applied over a decal that is laid directly on a matte blank the portion not covered will have a gloss coat, the part under the decal, will show the matte finish, it is no different then taking a piece of masking tape and placing it on a matte blank and apply finish over it-the part where the tape is if it is removed will be matte the rest gloss, I imagine it might not show up as a drastic difference in all cases but it will more often then not
John

I will offer a tip...I've printed decals on various papers & found that if I use 'decal setting solution' & 'decal softening solution' from Micro -Mark...all papers disappear wonderfully.
I have not tried this stuff directly on a matte finish,as I have always put a base coat down first.......also......would a coat of CP-811 'seal' the matte finish ??? I haven't tried that yet,either.

It's possible to put them directly on the blank and have them look extremely nice with no edges showing. Don't think you absolutely have to put down a base coat of epoxy.

........

I agree, Tom, and the picture that I talked about will show this. It is just as glossy looking under the decal as it is around it. I don't understand why, but it works.

Putter

Comming from a scale modlers perspective, you should apply the decal over a glossy surface. The reason is that on a mat (rough) surface tiny microscopic bubbles can form due to air trapped beneath the decal and create a frosted look. If you apply the decal over a glossy surface there is less chance of the microscopic bubbles forming and the decal will set better.

-Mack

I don't think that you need it on a glossy blank but on a matte blank you do because when you put the finish over the decal area, the area under the decal would still be matte since the finish won't be under the decal but all around it, wouldn't it?
Mike

On a matte blank, I followed Ralph O'Quinn's surface prep article in the library, put the decals on the bare matte blank twice, and under the decal (picture mentioned above shows this), it appears (even under a magnifying lens) perfect to me. Its just as glossy under the decal as off to the sides of it.
Again, I don't understand how, but it works for me.

Putter