Building 2 standup rods, 5'6", fast taper, one in the 30# and the other 50#. I'd like some opinions on 2 things.

1) the length of the bottom grip (gimbal not included). I'm 5'8" tall and use both gimbal belts just above the groin and also drop down. Would there be a length that would be compatible for both types of gimbal belt positions?

My current 30# is about 7" lower grip (the reelseat is downlocking) and I find it just nice for the belly gimbal belt. I also use a 80# that is about 9" and the reel seat is uplocking. That is to long for a belly gimbal and I find it just nice for a drop down gimbal on the thighs.

Wondered if I make the latest 2 at 8" and uplock or down lock, assuming I can still use the belly gimbal comfortably, would it still be effective for a drop down?

2) Simple question. Should it be up locking reel seat or down locking, and why?

Thanks

You will have to mount your seat in the direction that allows you to get the rear grip length you need. Working with the available componentry, one position or the other will allow you to get the length you need. I normally mount mine downlocking, but will go the other way if I need to do so to allow for greater rear rod length with available components. If you are using the rod in any sort of rod holder, make sure you allow enough length so that the rod holder will engage the gimbal nock on the rod. If the reel bottoms out first, you may want to mount the seat in the opposite direction to get an extra inch or so in the holder.

Also consider the forward reel clamp and if you need the seat downlocking soas to have that bit of barrel to use the forward clamp on. If you still wish to mount it uplocking, you can fit a block between the seat and grip for the clamp to reside on.

Rear grip length should be set so that the angler can easily and comfortably use the reel in the fishing position. It sounds like you are going to have to use an "in-between" length if you will be working on two different height fighting harnesses.

We are working on a full in-depth article on stand-up rods which will run in RodMaker sometime this year.

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Hi Tom, thanks for the reply. You mentioned forward reel clamp. None of the new reels use that if I recall, just the older models, much older. Is that right?

Size rather than age might have more to do with whether or not the reel has a forward clamp. But if you know that what you going to be using will not have such a thing you can cross that off your list.

Using a reel with a forward clamp directly on the foregrip does not work very well - it is hard to ever get it tightened securely and it destroys the grip in short order. I usually make a place for such a clamp to be used as I really never know what the customer may, in time, decide to put on the rod!

Again, if this is for you and you know you won't be using one then it is not a consideration.

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Chris, why do you use 2 different gimbal belts? You could split the difference and make them both 8".

Also, are you going to put the rod in a rod holder? If so, I would stay away from anything other than a Slick Butt or Unibutt. Foam and other compressible materials don't come out of a rod holder easily under a load.

Tom, thanks for the valuable input.

Mike, well 2 different gimbal belts because I put different loads on. the 30# max I fish with is 10lbs drag, maybe a tad more. I can fish without a kidney harness, or with one. Also easier to walk around with the lower belly gimbal belt.

the 50# I'll be using 16lbs to 23lbs of drag and there is no way I can apply that sort of pressure with the smaller gimbal belt. I definitely need a drop down thigh belt for that.

Been thinking earlier, I'll probably go with a similar set up to what I've already got. A short butt for the 30# and a longer one for the 50#. But first I'm going to check out the current short one on the drop down belt and see if it is still comfortable and effective fishing it like that. If it is I'll make the 50# shorter too.

Sort of want to make the rod (especially the 50#, I'll definitely go short with the 30#) as gimbal friendly as possible to different set ups as not all charterboats might have drop downs.

Have considered slick butts, but haven't manage to get them here yet. Out of stock. My current stuff is using foam/hypalon and haven't had problems with those yet getting them out of the rod holder. Still looking/waiting for the tuff butt.

Say what is the opinion nowadays regarding hypalon vs EVA for the for the foregrip? My preference before was for the hypalon as it felt better to hang on to especially for a long fight. The little extra weight didn't make a difference for a trolling rod

The Stand-Up rod article, which is quite complete and in-depth and covers about everything imaginable for these type rods, is in the Volume 5 #6 issue of RodMaker. It's lengthy and text heavy, but I'm not aware of anywhere else that this rod type has been given this sort of in-depth treatment. Contributing to the article were Ian Miller, Mike Ballard and Tom Kohl, all excellent Stand-Up rod builders.

I like EVA, when I can find it in a suitable hardness. I do not like spongy grips, for anything. Think about the flocked grips too - they're the toughest and firmest you can get, but also the most expensive.

Grip length comes down to how you have fit the rod to the harness. Any grip that extends beyond your reach is worthless. If you can reach up high enough and end up grabbing the rod blank, you could have used a longer grip. It is important to match your grip length, fore and aft, and seat position, to the harness you are going to be using.

All this and ton more are thouroughly covered in the article.

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