I always mix in a shot glass. I got that idea here on the forum, and it works great. The smooth rounded bottom makes the mixing easy, and it cleans up with an alcohol wipe ready for another use. I also mix with the small metal spatulas from Mudhole-the one with the rounded bottom is perfect with the shot glass. Those plastic cups have small nubs on the bottom that interfere with the mix.
Forum: rodboard

Just to add a few Props for Batson Enterprises----I called Batson for advice and was put through to Karry Batson who took my call personally. From what he said it sounds like the RX8 will fit my needs perfectly. He even had advice about other places to go in Alaska, and other similar info. I was extremely impressed with the customer service and appreciated the advice. I'm going to add an RX
Forum: rodboard

If I could add on a question about these RX8 Fly blanks... I want to build an 8-9 weight for throwing a weighted fast sink line for Coho Salmon. Some of the casts are quite long. Would this be an appropriate blank, and how would it compare to say an MHx 9wt? I have been torn between these two for some time and need to make a decision and build before the end of August. Thanks, Drew
Forum: rodboard

Experimenting is fun and laudable, however.... The amount of epoxy on a rod is maybe $0.25 worth, so I don't see it as a place to save a lot of money. In the end, for an individual rod, it's probably better to use something well known that removes the guess work, even if it is a few cents more expensive. Good luck Drew
Forum: rodboard

How thin the poly arbors are after reaming is not really an issue if you epoxy them inside the seat first. Then ream the whole assembly. This leads to an extremely light, rigid and strong fit. Also extremely easy to do and fast if you get the Flex coat bit to do the initial cut. If you glue the arbor in the seat the night before you build, you can literally drill, ream and fit perfectly in le
Forum: rodboard

It was pretty quick for me. First issue was about 2 weeks from when I submitted my subscription. Drew
Forum: rodboard

Logan-Go to a local Fly shop. They will know the local waters and be full of decent advice. Get a small selection of the top 5 flies they recommend and go fishing. Sportsman's Warehouse doesn't seem like the optimal place to start your fly fishing career. That really isn't their market, and they are not that interested in it. Drew
Forum: rodboard

Every water is different, and every season is different. But around here once it warms a bit and the insects start hatching, almost anything will do. For the trout in the Sierras, it is hard to beat an Elk Hair Caddis pattern, or an Elk Hair Caddis with a dropper nymph of some type tied below it. Just me, but I like an Elk hair caddis with a small tuft of white on top so I can see it. Parac
Forum: rodboard

A newbie question, as I have wondered about the 27x as well. My experience is limited to 4 spinning rods all 8'6"-9 foot salmon rods. What *seems* more important than the 27x rule is how far the first guide is from the spool. One rod I I set up it was almost 28 inches, which seems too far. The last one I did would have set up like that, but I placed the butt guide at 24 inches, and m
Forum: rodboard

I had not seen those St Croix SCIV kits before-that does look like a nice value package. For rock bottom prices, the Utmost closeout blanks are hard to beat at $20-$30. Similarly, the "Tiger Eye" from Sevier are a bargain at $30. In fact, at Utmost, you could get a blank and ask them to put the rest of the package together for you. They sell a lot of Batson stuff too, and I li
Forum: rodboard

That's a super nice blank to be starting on! 1-The smaller the clearance the better. In fact, if you use a foam or graphite arbor, you ream it to a snug fit so there is just enough room for an ultra thin layer of epoxy glue. 2-Me personally-Anodized aluminum wins every time. Struble and REC = First quality. 3-Don't know. I have a lot of fly rods, and all are uplocking except one anci
Forum: rodboard

Selfishly, I hope you try the MHX and report back! I have considered that exact blank as it looks like the right power, length and weight to me. The St Croix has the advantage of being made in the USA. You could also look higher up the St Croix food chain. Last thing to consider--I recently finished a Batson XST1085 for Coho fishing in AK. I have only test casted it so far, but it's a
Forum: rodboard

Todd Vivian Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Lets see if I can answer a few of these questions > while I'm sitting here with my Itunes > playing...... > > There will most likely be some specialty Fly > models in the future but to be honest the existing > ones are in the 52 million range currently. > > The original MHX bla
Forum: rodboard

Any fly blanks? I really like the existing MHx blanks, this should be great. Drew
Forum: rodboard

Why not use the REC light wire single foots? I believe they are the RSF guides. They would be perfect for this light of a rod, and weigh almost nothing. Disclaimer, I have used them only once, but they are nicely made and super light. Plus, they cannot rust, are damage resistant, etc. I was favorably impressed and will use them again. Drew
Forum: rodboard

I went through exactly this 3 months ago, and built a Salmon travel rod out of a 10wt Sevier fly blank. The good part is that is does break down and fit in a short tube. The bad part is, compared to a normal spinning rod, the rod feels very soft with much less back bone up high on the rod. Unfortunately, 4 piece spinning rod blanks are virtually unavailable. Although I did see this, second fr
Forum: rodboard

Just built an MHX 8. It's a very decent rod with lots of backbone. 10wt would handle some very large fish and is probably overkill, especially with Bass on the menu. I'd love to hear more feedback on MHx. I've built a 5 and an 8 and extremely pleased with both. Any comparisons to Batson RX8? Drew
Forum: rodboard

I have completed one 8wt with the stainless/alconite k series guides, and am starting another with the titanium/alconite k series guides. They are expensive, but you're only using two of the guides. Just me, but I can't really tell the difference when casting between alconite and SiC, and since alconite is much cheaper, and supposed to be more fracture resistant, I would use those. I also
Forum: rodboard

You could build one with single foot guides and one with double foot snakes--That would make them easy to tell apart at a glance and They would both work equally well. Plus you would learn which you prefer for future reference. The suggested guide sizes in your post sound large for a 5 wt. I might recommend Strippers 12,10, then wire fly guides 3-2-2-2-2-2-2-2-tip. That's 10 total guides. (
Forum: rodboard

I'm glad I'm not the only one who has done this. My very first build I was assembling a kit from Batson which included a 17 reel seat. It turned out the reel I had needed an 18 for sufficient length. Fortunately I test fit half way through and was able to get it apart before I had the fore grip in place. Anyway, it was a good lesson and a mistake I have not repeated. It sounds like this is
Forum: rodboard

Dale-Cabelas had any tube and rod sack you could possibly want, or you can make your own with ABS pipe, which is cheap. light and rigid. You can make a tube better than you can buy for $5. Drew
Forum: rodboard

I did not measure the ERN but it does feel stout. Did yours come with each female ferrule wrapped with tape and a hand printed label? Drew
Forum: rodboard

Great. Thanks for the replies. Definitely planning the Forhan locking wraps. I have used those on every rod after the first one I did. My main concern was the guides pulling out since the feet are thin and there isn't much to hold them. Drew
Forum: rodboard

I have an 8wt under construction that will be used in Alaska fishing for Cohos. I had originally planned to use regular double foot fly wire fly guides, but I liked the way single foots turned out on a 5 wt.. recently. After some reading past posts here, it looked like single foot wire guides might do the trick on the heavier rod, and since I have a set in hand, I was thinking about using th
Forum: rodboard

From the Mudhole site: F663?3?MHX 3 6'6" 3 21 2.08 60 I guess that makes sense for the short distances such a rod would be used at-a shorter section of a 3 wt line, would load the rod enough to cast, or a 30 foot section of a 2 wt line would load it properly at more distance. New to this, but that CCS info is interesting. Drew
Forum: rodboard

Very impressive 129 from California! Any breakdown by where in California? ie North/South? Nice looking event-I'd love to be there one year just to attend all of the seminars, and meet the "stars" of the rod building world. Inbound subscription request... Drew Sacramento, California (that's Northern California for those unfamiliar!)
Forum: rodboard

Another user here-all the rods I have built (7) have used the ProKote, which I like. It does cure slowly and frequently is tacky at 12 hours. At 24 hours it is soft, and virtually tack free. By 48 hours the surface feels solid. My house is cool, and that may be part of the reason the curing time is long. I have mixed as little as 1cc of each component with no problems with it setting up
Forum: rodboard

I want some. When will it be available? Does it remain slightly flexible, or is it rock hard? Before anyone says I should have been in High Point, I wish I could have. Maybe next year. Drew Sacramento, CA (a long way from High Point!)
Forum: rodboard

Logan-If this is your first rod, building a recipe makes sense. You can get spacing recommendations from most of the blank manufactures. St Croix is a sponsor here so I can send you to their guide spacing chart: Batson also publishes this information, as does Sage. 12 guides is a lot for a 9 foot rod. The usual rule of thumb is length in feet plus 1. So a 9 foot rod would have 10
Forum: rodboard

For me 12 turning, then 12 hours sitting in the drier, untouched. Then 3 full days standing in the corner, untouched, then I am willing to test cast. I have no idea if it makes any difference, but ProKote stays soft for quite some time after it's applied. At 4 days, it's very firm and at or near, full hardness. It's always a week or two before they get used for real. It would be nice to
Forum: rodboard