I got a new top section from Batson when I broke one of my spinning rods. They turned it around in 2-3 days. The only downside it that you have to rebuild the rod yourself, but for most here, that isn't a bad thing! The MHx blanks from Mudhole have a really nice registration/warranty package that I hope others will copy. To answer your question directly, I don't think you'll have any prob
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Your plan of getting what you need through Utmost is a good one. Personally, I'd use an RX6 2 piece in the line weight you want. It won't be expensive. You will really use your first rod as a learning exercise so don't spend a lot. While it will fish just fine, rods you make later will look much better. Even if you build it, fish it once and park it, you will have learned to build rods and
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So is it absolutely necessary to apply a fixative? I've only installed 1 decal, and in my ignorance, just put the finish over it. Will it delaminate or cause problems later? It was a nice rod for my brother, so if it's a problem, I'll get it back from him and re-do it. It was a Mudhole custom text peel and stick decal if that matters. Drew
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I've had really good luck with the ProWrap thread, so my guess is, that isn't the problem. I got a bunch of "old" Gudebrod early on, and they seem equivalent, at least to me. Drew
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Look to at the Teton "Classic"--Modern equivalent of the Teton Tioga. It's made in the US, and isn't much more money than a decent import. The drag is good, it's saltwater safe and a very durable reel. Should be about $200. My 8 year old Tioga just keeps on going. A nice reel for $200. Current favorite reel is the Galvan "Torque", they are more $$, but still signifi
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This is an interesting discussion. I went to Alaska this year for the Kenai Sockeye run and then back earlier this month to fish for Cohos. Both times I took several 8wt rods I built over the last year, and my Z Axis I got 2 years ago. There is no question, that the all ceramic guide rod fished the "smoothest" especially with a fish running and taking line. Unfortunately, you ha
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Me too. REC recoil snakes are the most trouble free guides on fly rods. On light rods, REC single foots. With that said, all fly rods I make will have a TFST top. Drew
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Duane-Kind of confirms how it appears to me. I know the complete history of this rod and made every cast it's made and know I did not abuse or previously bend the guide in question. It got bent down when fouled with the line during casting, and snapped when bent back into position. Since I like the feel of an all ceramic guide fly rod, I will likely replace all the guides with TLSGs thoug
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I'm a novice and have built about 15 rods and splined the first 7. Then just started building on the straightest axis, and no issues. With no hard data, I don't think it matters. Now the static testing thing, does seem to matter, so maybe concentrate your energy there. It's kind of a pain, but when you fish, you have the inner knowledge that you are set up "right". Now with that s
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Just back from a fly fishing trip to Alaska (Coho fishing was super hot this year) with several of my newly built rods. One of them is an RX8+ 8wt that I built with American Tackle NIRLF ceramic "fly" guides. One of the guides got bent down about 30 degrees from normal and when I tried to bend it the 30 degrees back, it just snapped off. So I was curious if this is a common problem w
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Isn't this the same thing as the "Nano" technology already used by St Croix? This was a new product a year or two ago, but not now. But who is Great Longview? I'll bet it's a Chinese company that makes carbon fiber products.
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Follow - up The rod is on the dryer as we speak. I spent a good part of the day yesterday wrapping the guides, applying the decal (custom decal from Mudhole-worked well). First coat of finish went on last night, and second and final coat went on this morning. It will sit on the dryer until I get home from work at 11pm tonight. First rod I've done all in 1 day. I took the advice here an
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Chris Sadler Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I've been using pro kote with one coat seems to be > working fine for me. Kinda curios why you would > need 3 coats? Usually 2 coats, occasionally 3. I put it on very thin and wick away sags. I've been getting really nice results, and am hesitant to deviate! Still, you're right, I may be making more t
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I live in a hot place-Sacramento, Ca. Finding warm spots is pretty easy this time of year! My plan is to try the Flex Coat. It has to be quicker than the alternatives I have available. I'm just hoping that it will build well with just 1 coat on the wraps-that saves nearly a day right there. The blank just arrived at my house, so I should have the grip done tonight and most of the wraps i
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I had considered letting the finish set up and then placing the rod in my car that sits out in the sun. It would likely keep it at 130F+ or so most of the day. I don't know if that's too hot or not. 30 minutes of pot life should be fine-I can usually finish all of the wraps in 10-15 minutes or so working quickly. My procedure is to mix in a shot glass, then pour onto a shallow aluminum bow
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Looking for advice! I've built about 12 rods in the last year and have always used ProKote thread finish from Mudhole. It's great stuff, but it takes 3-4 days to harden reasonably and I usually wait at least a week before use. Still, I like it, and am very familiar with how it works. I am leaving for Alaska in 7 days. Between now and then, I need to complete a rod for one of my fishing p
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Skipp Hughes Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > From the CCS data sheet I have the ERN is 8.28 and > the AA is 64 Thanks for the replies. My own estimation is more like Chad's, but I appreciate all the info. Is the CCS data that you have personal, or is it available on the web? I checked the Batson site and could not find it. Drew
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Finishing a Batson XF 908-4 fly rod and have a question. Do CCS numbers exist for this series of blanks? I looked at the CCS Data site and the info there looks dated and incomplete, relative to this series of blanks. Anyway, this rod feels very fast, and also feels like it's more powerful than other 8 weights that I own. I was just wondering if there were actual numbers to confirm what I b
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Since it's for salt water, I would use titanium guides. The REC snake running guides are excellent, and I have come to like the Fuji "K" guides for stripping guides. For the tip top, I'd use a Fuji titanium/SIC. It isn't traditional looking but will give better performance. The seat is up to you, but the handle kits from Batson are very nice and work well for not a ton of $$. D
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An MHx 4wt fly rod "kit" from Mudhole would be a great place to start and leave you with a nice rod. Then you would have all the guides, handle materials etc, without having to order each bit. Just remember that your first rod will not be as nice as subsequent rods, so don't buy a fancy blank as your first project. It really helps to have an experienced builder walk you through
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I built a rod to throw about that weight lures out of a 10 wt blank. It works well enough, but even though it is a fast action fly rod, it's a slooow action spinning rod. If you like the deep flex aspects of a fly rod, you will be very happy with such a rod. If I were doing it again, I'd use a 12 wt blank. Good luck. Drew
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I built the same blank about 6 months ago and it's become a favorite. I used REC single foots and top, with Fuji "K" Ti strippers. It makes a very light rod, which is the first thing you notice about it. I even but a small fighting butt on it just because I like them. I've used it to fish drys, and nymphing under an indicator. It has lots of power for a 5 wt. I agree with the po
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I can't directly compare but...I am building an RX8 8 wt right now, and I built an MHx 8 wt over the winter that I just fished in Alaska during the Kenai Sockeye run. These are impressions only and others here will have far more experience than me. MHx-very light weight, fast without being "superfast" action. Very good ferrule fit. A pleasure to fish with. It does not feel as pow
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Casey Abell Wrote: > Well what about this... Since 9' is on the long > side for what im looking to build what about > taking 4-6" off of the tip of the lighter rod. I > thought maybe removing from the tip would give me > the slightly stiffer action desired. > > Any thoughts? Sorry Casey-No idea. I've never caught a catfish, and don't expect to. J
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I've built recently on the 8 wt MHx and Batson RX8 blanks. Both are very nice, but the RX8 is made to be overlined. Tons of power, and likely too stiff for some tastes. I like it. I don't get to fish the salt water, but I would guess it's the one you want in the salt. Don't get me wrong, the MHx blanks are great, and cast extremely well. They are more of an all around fast action rod
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Let me echo what others have said-these are nice blanks, not just nice blanks for the money. I've built two of them, both fly rods for myself. No doubt I will build more in the future. The registration and warranty features are nice-I can never keep up with receipts for a return years later. Mudhole took the pain out of that part of it. I would err on the side of the heavier rod, and i
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In the Batson guides including the LXNs, anything that has an 'X" in the ordering code is made of 316 stainless and should be suitable for salt water. But do call them. I called with a simple question and Karry Batson himself took the time to answer it. They are good folks. Drew
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Thanks for the replies gents. I added one and the associated cork to my Utmost order. Here is the plan: RX8 8wt blank Alps Triangular flyseat/Full Wells/Fighting butt Fuji TKWAG strippers (Used the last 3 builds and love these for strippers) REC snakes TFST Top It should land it's first salmon by September 2nd! Drew
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Anyone use these? They look nice and high tech but not over done. I'm building a nice 8wt as a gift that I want to succeed. I normally use the Batson HK4 kits for handles, but wanted something different. Any links to the photo section? Drew
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I've learned and tried a lot of things I found here in the last year. Thank you to Tom and all the contributors. Suggestion: Allow pictures in the main forum. Drew
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