As long as you didn't sand through to the thread it will be invisible.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > There is an article on making stacked leather > grips in the last issue of RodMaker. > > ................ I was not aware, being that I am from Canada. PS I would subscribe...
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You could also go with a stacked leather grip - very old school. Here is a tutorial.
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Cork doesn't need sealing. It has a closed cell structure and doesn't take stain. If it gets dirty it can be cleaned with a mild detergent. Using tru-oil or other cork sealer will enhance the colors of burl corks but I find it changes the feel of the cork - making it feel more plasticky. I prefer natural.
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I use Gimp. It's powerful and free.
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Response from the vendor is that he mistakenly sent me a 6wt. 9/10 wt is on its way. I will post specs for the new blank when it arrives.
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Yes, I was looking for a blank with an ERN of at least 9.5 for throwing 75+ feet of 8 wt line with sink tips. This blank was cheap so I thought I would give it a try. I was surprised to see it so far from expected.
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4 piece IM6 length = 105.5" butt dia = 0.392" tip = 4.5 blank weight = 1.65oz mid blank dia = 0.275"
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Will do. It was a very inexpensive blank so it's not about the $, more the hassle and shipping costs.
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By short distances do you mean 10 feet? That's hardly a reasonable assumption for a fly rod. I checked it twice and subsequently measured a 5wt rod using the identical setup and weight and found only slightly more deflection.
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Today I received a blank I ordered online that I intended to build for pacific salmon. The quality looks quite good - color, straightness, fit, finish. I measured it using CCS and found: ERN = 6.49 AA = 69 **note that the blank matches butt size and blank weight as advertised, and I probably should have known it would be too light. Am I wrong to conclude that there is no way this rod wil
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Many Pacific Salmon will jump immediately upon being hooked. Yesterday I caught a dozen Pink Salmon in deep, slowly moving water using floating line. They were certainly not snagged or flossed and most of them jumped immediately after I set the hook. Chum and Coho will also often jump immediately after being hooked. I don't know about breaking off - that just points to using inadequate test tip
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The MHX fly blanks are fast action (but not too fast) and are some of the thinnest and lightest on the market without exotic material. What characteristics were you looking for with higher modulus?
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The problem is comparisons like the "5 Weight Shootout" where they specifically choose lines that are 1/2 size heavier than ATFMA, then are quite pleased when the higher ERN rods can cast further. IMO a 4wt rod should not have an ERN of 7.5 - calling it "tip action" doesn't make it a better casting tool.
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If you are printing them yourself (as I do) you need to put a light colored background on the blank before the waterslide decal, then use a dark background on the decal so that the lettering shows through. I typically use silver metallic thread as an underwrap to the decal.
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Sage XP and Z-Axis are in the 68-72 range depending on line weight. The MHX 9' 5wt is my new favorite rod, and I'm building a second one right now. It is fast action - both of mine measured slightly over 70 for AA - but it isn't stupid fast. It doesn't behave like many tip-flex blanks like Dan Craft FT in that the MHX will flex almost to the grip when casting or fighting a fish. I lawn
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Calipers are clearly more accurate. If he had a set of calipers measure the diameter directly then multiply the diameter by pi(~3.14) to get the circumference.
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Titebond III
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I have used U-40 cork seal and Tru-oil and I like the look of both but I don't like the feel of Tru-Oil. I find it changes the texture of the cork while U-40 only changes the color. I don't see how it would be possible to have U-40 peel off.
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I have never used CP on my waterslide decals and I haven't had problems with the inkjet ink lifting. My guess is that the brush marks will continue to be visible after epoxy.
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Mudhole MHX. Super light, fast action that is very smooth casting. <$100 for a 9' 5wt (I'm building one right now)
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Bill Jovanovski Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > had a look both those free program and these some > what difficult to use if you ask me. Maybe its > just me. Gimp has features compatible with high end Adobe photo editors. They are really for people experienced with photo editing.
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I use Gimp. It is open source (free) and is very powerful.
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I've never built a website like this but what about the concept of letting people add their own CCS results? A simple front end to enter the data should be pretty easy to develop, and a results page with sortability based on manufacturer, ERN, AA, etc. would be very user friendly. To minimize work vetting of the results can be done by the community - if we have enough samples it should be easy
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Todd Vivian Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Rick, > there are two 10' models which will be in in about > a month the 1203 and 1204F. > > Todd Thanks Todd. 10' just might work for me if it is a faster action.
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Hey Todd, Great to see MHX for salmon. Why no longer rods in medium power? I am looking for something comparable to Sage CT2106. 10'6" 8-17lb test, 1/4-1oz lure. For west cost medium sized rivers we need a decent length for casting, but relatively fast action with a sensitive tip. The ST1355-MHX looks too heavy (tip size 6), and the rest are super light. Not sure who uses 4-8 lb test fo
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Try Gimp - it is very powerful and open source (read FREE).
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Bill, won't a thin coat of finish crack or peel over a flexible material like cork??
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Mudhole MHX Fly 9'0" 4pc. 4wt. B0.360 T3.5 Slate R3/B17 Blank Weight: 1.4oz Butt size (measured): MHX 0.360" Tip size: 4.0 (3.5 was too tight) ERN: 4.85 AA: 72 I haven't finished building it, but the blank was very straight - fit and finish are good.
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