Most gear blanks are very fast action with very fast recovery compared to even fast fly blanks. You could look for a blank targeted for centerpinning for a more fly-like taper.
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It's all about balance. For tip down applications (spoon/spinnerbait) having less weight at the butt of the rod makes for a more comfortable solution. It won't help you catch more fish.
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Pac-Bay minimas seem to fit the bill.
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I thought some of you might be interested. I have been considering building a fly rod for myself for Coho Salmon in the Pacific Northwest. Last year I used my 8wt MHx 10' and although it worked extremely well, it's just too heavy for rivers where the average fish size is 5lbs. I also tried my 4wt MHx 10' and it wasn't powerful enough. I figured I should split the difference and go with a 6wt.
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I don't like them. They are fine for summer conditions, though I find the taller frame spinning guides bend very easily. In cold conditions they grab water and ice up much quicker than ceramic inserts.
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I also wrap my grip tightly with painter's tape before reaming. I still ream slowly with a drill, but it keeps the grip from twisting.
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TM Lite for me.
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Looking at the Scott website it looks more like a full wells grip that has the bulge closer to the tip. Pretty much anyone can turn one for you. Try a local rod builder.
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MHx 10' 4wt with a true 5wt line (i.e. Rio Gold) casts beautifully up to 70 feet. It is my go to stillwater rod for trout. Finished rod with single foot wire guides: ERN:5.4, AA: 70, CCF: 76 (as a 5wt).
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Randolph Ruwe Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Use Gudebrod if you can find it, I have never had > it fade. Use CP too! > ! Why would CP help with metallic fading? It's not UV protective and epoxy doesn't penetrate metallic thread.
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If you get a straight line and it puts 2 guides on the bottom section then it is right. You just need to make sure you have done the math right for your reel and guide heights.
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I think the OP is referring to the new 6,7,8 wt 10' blanks. PacBay lists all CCS numbers including CCF so you have a ton of information. For example, the 6wt 10' has ERN: 6.8, AA: 69, CCF:85 which means it has reasonable power for a 6wt but is very stiff. I prefer a CCF in the 80-81 range. Overlining it with a 7wt line will reduce CCF to a more reasonable value but will likely overload it eve
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Usually the motivation is to get a 4 piece blank. The difference is in taper. Spey blanks are much slower action - flex deeper into the handle than even the softest float blanks.
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Mettler poly sheen multi 100% polyester with no CP. I have used several different colors of this variegated thread without CP and have never seen any issues. I would be very surprised if it were lubricated.
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I have found that Minima's without the ceramic insert freeze up much worse than insert guides. I use size 8 single foot guides on my rods that see winter steelhead duty.
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I find that two rods with identical CCS AA numbers will "feel" completely different. I use the CCS CCF number to give me a really good indication of if I will like the "feel" with a given line weight. Unfortunately, CCF is less reported than ERN and AA. An example is my build of a Mudhole MHx 10' 4wt measures at CCF=80 with a 4wt lineThis is too responsive (i.e. feels fas
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None.
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Hook keeper makes sense there as long as line slap doesn't result in it getting fankled on casts. You certainly don't want to be hooking through a single foot minima guide.
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I use the small drum sander head on my Dremel for inleting. Trace an outline of the mating piece and go slow, testing often.
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A lighter grip improves the balance for tip down fishing. I use split grips for spoon and spinner fishing for salmon, but I imagine that they would be good for spinnerbaits or other topwater applications.
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Herb Ladenheim Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > actions. CTS' are the best in the industry for strength and flex profile. > Herb That's a bold statement. Can you prove it?
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I agree on size 3 (I use them on my 8wt for salmon/steelhead) though they will look a bit funny on a 5wt. I tried single foots first but rewrapped with snakes due to icing issues.
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Okay. I tested a Beulah Platinum 9'9" 7wt rod that tests at CCF=84 and CCF+1 = 79. I used that rod as reference for my comment above.
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Geoff Staples Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Just to clarify, the CCF of rod cannot be changed > by increasing or decreasing the line weight fished > or the weight used to obtain the CCF. This is > because the CCF measurement, by definition, is a > function of the rod's ERN value and a specific > amount of weight to be used (in this case
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I don't have the rods you're asking for, but I just measured an RX7 9'6" 7wt blank: ERN: 8.4, AA: 67, CCF:78 (as an 8wt). With a 7wt line CCFshould be in the 83 range.
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Size 17 is the outside dimension. Exposed blank reel seats must be matched to the blank so you must order the right ID (usually 9-15mm). There is no way to shim it.
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9 RPM for drying. By hand for applying. Haven't tried anything faster.
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Yup. Minimas with no ring ice up way more than any insert. It could be because the insert is slippery and rejects water.
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Did you measure CCS?
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Not a sponsor, but very useful information.
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