How you get rid of your schedule 40 PVC scraps from shipping tubes? I have a pile of 2-3' long 2&3" dia tubes Thanks
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Gary, Think swimbait of similar weight and you'll get good results
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Do rod manufacturers that don't make their own blanks pay excise on components then on complete rods? I attended a seminar by a well known blank manufacturer who assured us all that their corporate lawyers said custom rodbuilders did not owe excise since they paid it on components. I get the better safe than sorry thought where the feds are concerned, just curious what others have heard on this.
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I like fast, soft tipped popping blanks for topwater and jerkbaits. A hotshot blank would be along the same lines. may make a good rod for square bills too. The soft tip and backbone might be an option for drop shot rigs.
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I was thinking more along the lines of spinnerbaits, swim jigs etc for bass rods. Casting distance is way over rated in bass fishing circles but it's a common question. Thanks for your input!
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In a blank of a given power, which action will cast further? I can the fast action having increased tip speed to fling a bait, or will a more moderate action load more making more use of the rods backbone? I can see the logic of both lines of thought and also that it may be a moot point and the power being the real factor.
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The resources mentioned are good especially for rod types you're unfamiliar with. But don't be afraid to experiment or deviate from the "recipe". Eventually you'll find what works for you which is the ultimate in custom.
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There's a meaningful jump in quality in casting reels that retail at $100>. The BPS Pro Qualifier is the way to go on a budget. There well worth the $125 list but are on sale all the time. Alternatively, I'd go with a lightly used Revo S, Citica, Tatula or mid level Lews.
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With the reel being so near the fulcrum of the lever (depending on how you grip the rod) I don't find reel swaps all that helpful. I hesitate to add weight at all to a lightweight blank that costs a premium. A quality blank, well thought out grip, and guide train should result in a rod that is a pleasure to fish.
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Is there a model to fit 16mm seat with trimmed threads that allows room for the hood to loosen?
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I salvaged a motor, switch and foot pedal from a sewing machine and would like to use them for a lathe primarily for finish application. The motor had a belt to a gear which I also saved. Does the motor need to be geared down to be useable or can I work right off the motor shaft? Any other tips or suggestions appreciated.
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I just got a call form a client saying that the red anodized checks on a 3 yr old rod are starting to fade and look pink . Has anyone else heard of this? These are common parts from a reputable supplier. Thanks
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I have two bamboo fly rods given to me that as far as I can determine were built in the 80's by a local guy. They are 7' 4pc with snake guides and a metal DF stripper. each has 3 spare tip sections and one has a spare second section. They have TN grips with slip rings and are labeled as Mtn Pack Fly/Spin 5-8wt. and the name "Brian Monroe" CCS put the ERN at 4.8 and the AA 55*. The fini
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I did a swimbait rod on a n MHX surfcasting blank for a client last year and he absolutely loves it. Long casting of big baits was his primary concern.
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Full HM is a no go for any type of rough use. MHX just launched an Elite Pro Series. that is in between their standard and HM models as a compromise for such rougher use applications (tournament guys etc)
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Good idea. I've been using a wrap of thread to snug up the fit then trim it off to not show.
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If you're talking about Shaw Grigsby those are a slip on butt they call a Koosh or something. They're a flotation device. Personally I don't buy into adding weight to a bass rod to "Balance" it. A well thought out handle and guide train on a quality blank usually feels and fishes pretty well. Some feel a Mod Fast action helps keep the fish hooked. I find a mod-fast preferable for punch
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I did a lavender on pink for my daughter that I think came out well.
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I just did exactly as you suggest, cut the grip back at the diameter that fits. Worked perfectly. Just don't make it too tight or the skin will peel off.
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I'm searching for some small decals to identify technique specific rods for a client. Worm/Jig, Frog & Crankbait to be specific. Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Subjective as it may be, I couldn't begin to sell a rod to the avid bass anglers I deal with without talking about lure weight rating. I don't have a URRS chart yet and can not reconcile the CCS formula with the fly weight/16 formula. The prior gives me a range of 1/16-3/16 and the later 3/8 (6/16) as a starting point. I don't see a rod that handles 30' of 6wt fly line casting a 1/16 bait very we
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I just built one on a Surf Blank (MHX) and the customer raved about it and wants another.
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What size line? I use the match guides to regular runners 6# mono or <30# braid 20/12/6/4....... Minima or Fuji FAT top 4.5
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I find a sharp pair of cuticle nippers to work well.
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Define truly Med or MH. I can tell you that a M St croix and MH MHX will have similar lure weight ratings. I use different blank brands for different applications. It seems each has some stand out models. I'd compare HM and SCIV models if building a 7' M or MH bass rod. I like St Croix blanks a lot but sell a lot of MHX builds and customers are very pleased.
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You're off to great start, even the photos
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Cameron, It's so easy to achieve a good feel with modern qaulity blanks, guides and thiughtful grip design and seat location that I just don't see any advantage to adding weight anywhere on a rod. Add to that that rods are held and moved in so many different direction and planes while fishing, and the whole idea of balancing at a particular point goes out the window. I think a large part of th
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The "Balance" issue is largely marketing by rod makers to bass fishermen that are obsessed with sensitivity. Many have been conviced a butt heavy rod "feels lighter in hand".
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A sanding block and some 400 grit should do it. Take your time and be sure not to get into the thread or decal. The second coat should shine it up.
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The bottom layer adds the effect, the top layer the color.
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