My 78 is a painted Rod Geeks C266MLF. Unless I made a mistake.
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59 to 78 degrees. Total number of 50 rods/blanks.
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Thanks to all for the answers. Clears it up for me.
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The Point Blank hard specs show two values for Action Angle. The first is an "RDA" value and the second is a "CCS" value. Why the two and what does RDA stand for?
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Try a test sample to see if it gives you the look you want.
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My experience was good. I broke the tip of a four piece fly rod and they worked with me to replace it. I would definitely buy from them again.
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Don't forget Testors hobby paints. They work fine also.
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If you want hard carbon tubing, search the internet. It's out there.
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Can't tell you how many times I called my rod building buddy or he called me to vent because something didn't go right or something was forgotten. It's part of the game and we have fun laughing about our mistakes.
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The next battle is between the microwave system and the KR concept. If this has already been done, please point me in the right direction to see the results. I am willing to do the testing. Does anyone know the guide trains of each to form a fair comparison?
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What about the feel of the two? Did one feel smoother than the other?
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I read the link referenced and agree fully with Tom that the standards are just fine. The fly fisherman needs to understand the relationships described by Dr. Hanneman. I started fly fishing about five years ago and realized early on that you cannot depend on the manufacturer's ratings, neither lines nor rods. They need to logically match. I started to rate every rod I built with the numbers
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Go to the CTS website to the left and search on "graphene". They have some info there.
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Any dry pigment from an artist supply store also works.
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Put a piece of dowel rod in a 2x6 or other wood of your choice.
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Had a very similar experience with an Immortal blank. They are good at supporting their customers.
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Consider using a spiral wrap. You can reduce the number of guides with this layout.
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Roger, Thanks.
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Roger, I'm not sure I understand what is one of these for $20?
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I was thinking of getting a tail stock for my rod lathe. Does anyone have any good home grown ideas of how to make one?
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I got a 4 piece fly rod blank from NFC and had a similar issue with sanding marks on the blank. Contact them. I am sure they will make it right.
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Place the blank in your casting hand and see where the butt ends lies against your arm. Lengthen or shorten your hand position based on what feels right to you. Mark the point where the reel will sit and set your seat accordingly.
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I do uniquely number them. I keep a spreadsheet with all the details as you suggest. I take pictures of each part of the rod and keep it all in an electronic folder for my records. Sounds like the best thing to do is add the mfg's label, add the unique number and leave it at that.
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I want to make some labels for rods to note rod details, CCS values, owners name, etc. I searched and found some discussions on the forum, but they are older. Saw some references to label makers like the P-touch, the K-sun, and inkjet printing. What are people using and how satisfied are they with the results? I was hoping to not sink hundreds of dollars into this venture. I especially like
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If you are happy with Flex Coat, why not use the Flex Coat Lite and use two coats. It''s a fine finish.
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Rod Geeks is also very good with customer service. I broke a tip of a 4 piece fly rod and they got me another one very quickly. I bought some blanks at the show in February. I started to build one, a C4, and rotated it to find the central axis. There was no eccentricity, rare for any rod, so I built it on the spine.
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Thanks for the info. The DC motor setup sounds interesting.
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I have an ALPS chuck on my rod lathe. There is a separate wrapping motor and drying motor. Does anyone know where I can order a replacement drying motor?
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Sorry. mistake on this post.
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1. The vast knowledge obtained from the posts. 2. Micro guides 3. The Fuji GPS 4. The ability to build a light weight rod that out performs anything you can buy off the shelf.
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