Building a three piece travel rod, AT844-3. Using a Fuji reel seat, cork grip from rings, and Fuji KR guides (stock on hand). Central Pa
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Mark, I have thought of this myself and my solution is to do what Ronald Atchley suggests. I tie in a loop a few wraps before the end. I hold the tag end of the wrap tight and pull the loop tight against the wrap to hold the tag end in place. I then cut the tag end shorter than the amount of wraps, like you suggested to eliminate a bump. I then fray the tag end of the wrap before I pull it t
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Thank you for the responses. Very helpful.
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I am thinking of making some wooden handles that are etched with a CNC machine. I would like to highlite the etchings by filling them with a contrasting color. 1. What would you use to fill in the etchings, paint, ink, tinted epoxy, or something other? 2. How do you prevent the filler from bleeding over into/onto other areas of the handle? 3. What would you apply for an overall finish to
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Michael, Thanks!
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Where are you finding the CCS numbers for the Batson blanks? I don't see them in the catalogs or in the on line specs for the blanks.
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I built a torsion box from 3/4" mdf, 4" thick x 30" deep x and 10' long. I supported it on both ends with cabinet bases. The torsion box has held up great, does not sag and is solid as a rock. The cabinet bases make great storage areas for materials and tools. The area between allows for storage of plastic storage boxes for other items. I have peg board on the wall behind and
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Dry powder graphite can be messy. I would stay with a liquid lubricant. You won't need much. I'm thinking a light weight oil that is used on a sewing machine or similar application. Without a high load or high amount of friction, you just need a surface film.
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I built two rods to fish for reds in Pamlico sound out of a kayak. They were 1) NFC MB705-1 (350), 66 degrees, 671 grams (IP) and 2) MB704-1 (653) 69 degrees, 590 grams (IP). I have not fished them yet, but am very anxious. I used lighter rods and did not think they had enough backbone for the 5-6 pounders. My buddy likes to fish the MHX 843 blank, same scenario. I believe his 843 is around 7
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Thanks, Didn't know of this supplier.
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Looking for travel rods of the surf variety. I know Rod Geeks makes two models, but I could not find any one else that has this animal. Does anyone know of another supplier for 4 piece surf rods?
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I built a 30" deep x 10' long x 4" thick torsion box for a bench. I support it with cabinet bases. Works great for me. I installed peg board behind my bench and use it for everything from tools to rolls of tape. I have storage boxes and other cabinets for storage under the bench. If you are going to use overhead lighting, consider 4' led lights. They provide plenty of light. Cons
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Mike, These are CCS numbers, not blank weight. I measured the blank weight at 2.04 ounces.
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My 8 wt clocks in at 175 grams and 75 degrees. I broke the tip and they were accommodating in replacing it.
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Mark, Another method to consider is to get yourself a variable timer. I have one connected through the power supply to my drying motor. The timer has the ability to turn on for your defined period, turn off for your defined period, and stop after a defined period. I have mine set up to rotate for a period of 20 seconds, turn off for a period of 80 seconds, and stop after 4 hours. The stoppag
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Spencer, Do you mean a search of previous threads?
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Forgot to ask for the CCS numbers for a NFC SW703-1.
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Does anyone have the CCS numbers for the following blank? NFC SJ732-1 I am looking for some blanks in the range of 500 to 700 grams and fast to extra fast action. Thanks in advance for the recommendations.
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Since you have the wall space, you may want to consider making an area for CCS'ing rods. Consider leaving enough space at the butt end of the rods to adjust the rod to the length where you want to measure the blank. I made a set up where I can adjust the rod holder, a Backlash Device, up and down along a vertical track. I added a tape measure along the track to easily measure 1/3rd distance and
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Try heating it in a microwave. I had a kit of the Riley Rods epoxy from years ago. I recently picked it up and found the resin was hardened. I threw it away. Before I trashed the bag, I got the thought of heating it in the microwave. I figured what did I have to lose since I already considered it trash. Turns out it turned back into a liquid and was usable. I mixed up a few batches and it
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Spencer, fshrmn001@comcast.net
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Spencer, How do I unblock the email?
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Tom, I attempted to log in with info I have used in the past, to no avail. I also tried to reset a password/userid, and got no response. I tried to use the link to contact them and the link fails. Looks like this is database/owner is no longer active. If you, or anyone else, have gotten into the database, please advise. Thanks for the responses.
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Tom, I looked at that, and I believe that it is all fly rods. I can certainly start to add to that database to include the few that I have measured, as can the rest of us on the site. Is that the best way to go , or is it more prudent to add a database for other than fly rod blanks?
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I was looking for CCS info for rod blanks other than fly rods. Does such a data base exist for spinning/casting/other blanks? If not, how can we start one?
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Mark, Did you explain your method previously? If so, where? If not, can you add it here? Also, what are the differences you mention? Thanks, Ed
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Mark, I too, have found the stoppers to be a less attractive of a method for the syringes. A method I found that seems to work well is to get the bottles with the tapered tops. I believe Flex Coat makes this kit. I then cut the tops at the point where the syringe fits snugly into the top. When I turn them upside down, I have no problem getting the amount of liquid I need into the syringe wi
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Another option is to use the tapered caps. I cut them at the point where the syringe fits into the taper. Eliminated the need for the bottle stoppers.
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Built one, at the suggestion of a friend, that runs in the channel of my rod lathe. A quarter inch piece of material (I used plexiglas) for the base and you can add height and width to your liking. Be careful to keep it away from your guides. It can hit the higher guides and displace them.
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Built their C4F908.4 and use it for bonefish. It is my go to rod for this fish. Very fast. Mine CC'd at 75 degrees and 225 grams. More like a 9 weight. Their customer service is very good. I broke a tip and they were very helpful in replacing the tip. I agree with the no paint option. I've built other blanks of theirs that were painted. Quality of paint was fine, but the paint does slow th
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