Sort of. Just cut into the seat all around the circumference and then insert a screwdriver into the opening and "pop" "pop" "pop" until it all breaks loose. If you have a wood insert, cut and split the metal portion and remove. Then the wood can usually be split by tapping one end with a chisel. .............
Forum: rodboard

There has never been a private messaging system on this forum. To contact a board user privately, you will have to use your personal email program to connect with theirs. You cannot go through the forum to contact or email someone. The default for user registered email addresses is "hidden." Those who have enabled public viewing of their address made a decision to do so. Those wh
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I haven't either, but a lot of companies once had rods made for them under contract by larger manufacturers. It could along those lines. ..................
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It doesn't really matter because I only use the single forum. So one is the same as the other. ...............
Forum: rodboard

If you do not wish to save the pieces, then I'd spiral cut the seat and "pop" it off. The cork can be shaved off and then sanded down to near blank level. The new grip can be installed over what little cork remains in place. Just be careful not to cut into the blank during either operation. .................
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Very true. ..............
Forum: rodboard

Something that I was discussing with Bob McKamey this morning, is that these so called "micro guides" aren't at all new. Fishermen and rod builders in other parts of the world have been using them for over a decade. So their performance and worth isn't at all suspect - it has already been proven. Whether or not they'll work for the type/s of rods you build is something you'll have to e
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I don't think it's anyone's computer - defragging isn't likely to help with how you view the text on this page. The forum is experiencing some trouble left over from the hack last week. It's going to take a while to get things back in order. ................
Forum: rodboard

Brad may be wanting to find them via a sponsor or see a more complete line up. ..................
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I will assume those are from overseas. But that's only an assumption. ..............
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I understand, don't worry about it. It will take some time to get everything fixed - Ian and Wendy have other customers to attend to as well so now that we're mostly back up and running the little bugs that remain will be worked on as time allows. We'll get there, it'll just take some time. ...........
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Very good. One thing - your photos are much larger than they need to be. The internet is a low resolution medium and large photos take longer to upload and then for the viewers to download. A photo sized at just 800 to 1000 pixels square will be displayed on a computer monitor at the same size and quality as one much, much larger. For anyone seeing this and wanting to upload photos, use jpe
Forum: rodboard

If using Titebond or similar glue, you need to do your glue up and subsequent sanding/shaping all in the same day. If you allow the grip to stay on the mandrel for more than about 24 to 48 hours, the rust you mention will indeed damage your steel mandrels. If you can't do the entire job in a single day, it's best to use an epoxy adhesive for this chore. ................
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No, there is no rhyme nor reason to the fly rod nomenclature of many seat manufacturers. Those numbers are simply company model numbers and may have nothing at all to do with the sizing - you have to check their catalogs for that information. Some years ago at the annual Fly Tackle Dealer Show, a move was made to have fly reel manufacturers standardize reel foot sizing. Some adopted it, other
Forum: rodboard

No, they have effectively gone by the wayside. A small staff remains for liquidation purposes. .....................
Forum: rodboard

That's one of the original "underspin" rods. Still wildly popular among many fishermen. I have worked on one in the past, but it was so very long ago that I don't feel comfortable advising you. Perhaps someone else here has one and can provide you with the help you need. Hang on a day or so and let's see who chimes in. ................
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John, I looked and it shows you registered and even shows nearly 200 views from you. Try clearing your cache one more time and see what happens. ..............
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Everyone might as well be prepared for many more days of oddball behavior. It is going to take some time to fully repair the site. ...............
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ERN is power. All those rods have similar power. But, they won't all fish the same because they are different lengths, actions, weights, etc. One thing you do want to be careful of - the CCS figures given in the database were put there by rod builders at large. There is no guarantee that they are entirely accurate, although most seem to be reasonably so. If you see something that looks a bit
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That is from the pages of Tackle Trade World. I was unaware that Cabelas is involved in anything on that page. ...................
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Greg, The forum works in starts and fits - there was a lot of damage done. Some content has completely disappeared. Please be patient while things are being worked on. This won't happen overnight or even in a week's worth of nights. ...........
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Web browsers keep a copy of the last page or pages you've visited. This allows a quick return to that page when you hit your "back" button, etc. Because it doesn't update, however, whatever you saw previously you will see again, even if the page has changed since then. Generally, browser caches can be set for size, so that a website or page will refresh every so often. You can do t
Forum: rodboard

Tackle Trade World, the world's largest fishing tackle trade publication, has given a nice mention about the new International Symbol for Custom Rod Building in their December 2008 edition. They did not mention the official website for the symbol, but I won't look a gift horse in the mouth . Any talk is good talk and this will only further increase the acceptance and recognition of the symbol.
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Tru-Oil is very popular and is made to withstand the outdoor environment. ..................
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A single large fish eye is rarely a fish eye at all, but rather a large air bubble crater. But, that's not absolute. Try a good cleaning and then recoat and see what happens. ....................
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Everything is set to the left side of the page now. About all you can do is clear your browser cache and refresh the page. We are still working on minor bugs here and there. .................
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Log in and then refresh your browser. Your browser is calling up an older page from your cache. ............
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None came that way. .......................
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I have received the new shipment of decals featuring the International Symbol for Custom Rod Building. Those who have sent SASEs for them will be receiving them in a few days. I was also sent a few more of the rod builder license plates with this order, so I will again be including one of those with any back issue order for 3 or more issues. I'll continue to include them until the supply runs
Forum: rodboard

If the PermaGloss is peeling off it shouldn't be hard to remove. But I suspect it has been "beaten" off in spots. If you prepared a water break free surface, the stuff is almost impossible to remove without some real elbow grease. You might try one of the water based citris strippers to see if that will soften it. I haven't tried to remove PG with this method so I can't guarantee re
Forum: rodboard