It may not be doing anything that is going to cause a problem, but in the mind of the fisherman something is amiss. That's what you'll have to satisfy. .............
Forum: rodboard

Ken, This was difficult in earlier days - you had to combine a spinning type guide with a casting guide. It looked odd, thus few did it. I stumbled on it 30 years ago but have yet to complete a rod with that particular set up. Today it would easy to implement - you have some guide types that feature the same frame design with the same size guide rings in at least a couple of different heights
Forum: rodboard

If he can feel the bobber stop hit every single guide, then the spiral wrap is not the culprit. He would feel the same thing whether the guides are on the top or bottom of the rod. Surf fishermen go through the same thing with their leader knots. The only remedy seems to be to use larger guides all along the rod. .............
Forum: rodboard

If you want to continue experimenting, try this - Keep what you have now (25 - 12 - 8 - 6 and 3's) and find a lower framed 25 that you can install in place of the 12, or use the 18 as the butt guide and find a lower frame 18 to use in place of the 12. In other words, make the size of the first 2 guides the same, but keep the same line path. this requires the second guide be a lower framed version
Forum: rodboard

If you, or anyone else, wanted to come up with something specifically for the butt guide location, you could simply take stock of all the measurements of your current butt guide locations that you know to work well and figure some sort of average. Depending on the height and ring size of the guide, the optimum location from the reel will vary. This is what makes such a formula a bit hard to a
Forum: rodboard

Using the 27X choker guide location, the line path between there and the reel should locate the butt guide for you and do so with pretty good results if you stay within the recommended distance range for various rod types. I didn't develop anything for butt guide placement because it seemed redundant - it's almost automatically located with the NGC 27X method ............
Forum: rodboard

Keep in mind that gravity always has an effect - even at the outset of the cast. Effort and Inertia can overcome some amount of gravity for some period of time, but gravity is still affecting things nonetheless. Gravity nevers shuts itself off - it is affecting the line the whole time. If you used the same rod, reel and line and made a cast where gravity was not present, the line coils and line
Forum: rodboard

As you experiment with a greater variety of reels, you'll see what I'm talking about. Or perhaps I just have big knuckles. ............
Forum: rodboard

I've done it and found it makes little to zero difference - the line isn't shot off the reel spool. It's pulled off so spool upsweep really isn't much of a factor. Have at it, but if you try this, be prepared to have your knuckles smacked when you begin your retrieve. The bail roller assembly will hit you pretty hard if you dial in too much upsweep. Every additional degree you dial in brings t
Forum: rodboard

The secret to the spincast reels is twofold - the small opening just in front of the spool works because you have a cover over the spool - that's what controls the line. The same small ring just in front of a spinning reel spool without the cover isn't going to work in the same fashion. .................
Forum: rodboard

Pretty much, yes. The line is never allowed to billow out from the spool due to the spool cover containing the line coils. Spinning reels present a unique challenge because the line isn't controlled at the spool face with a cover. Once it billows out several inches ahead of the spool, you're faced with having to get it back under control. You want to do it as quickly as possible but have to
Forum: rodboard

I have taken such videos and many, many hundreds of 3-shot bracketed photos of rods being cast. As soon as the line touches something, in this case the guide ring, the motion of the revolving coil is upset. If you have a large enough ring - a really large ring where line control is almost non-existent, you will get some continuation of the revolving line coil through that ring but at some point
Forum: rodboard

Something came to mind and that regards one method of spine finding that involves holding the rod by the tip and laying the blank across the edge of a table while allowing the weight of the blank to create the flex. While this won't hurt most blanks, it's suicide on others. If you're doing it this way I advise that you change your method. .................
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I believe those were made with solid graphite tips fused into the tubular blank. The factory that made those closed or burned, I forget which. That was the end of them, although other manufacturers were approached about making something similar. It didn't pan out. You know Dale and how to reach him - shoot him an email and ask. I'd imagine he'd be happy to hear from you. ...............
Forum: rodboard

Michael, Just look at it. It's not that hard to see. The photo Bill provided shows the line in the bottom of the ring - I can pretty much assure you that it stays right there - it's not revolving around the entire circumference of the ring. But keep testing for yourself - you can learn a lot by trying different guide combinations and noting both the distance and line behavior from one set
Forum: rodboard

Mike, By the time the line has gone through the first 2 guides, if it's still traveling in a circle, you need to go back to the drawing board and redo your guide set-up. Higher frames and smaller rings generally straighten the line out more quickly than lower frames and larger rings. If I were you I'd to this - set up 2 systems, on the same blank, one at a time. Set the choker and running
Forum: rodboard

The line can't pass through the center of the rings - gravity ensures that it will always run along the ring of the guide. So setting up with your alignment line through the center of the rings only means that you end up using larger guides which gain you nothing in practical use and adds unnecessary weight which can indeed reduce overall rod performance. ....................
Forum: rodboard

He said he applied another application of epoxy and it was still "liquid" the next morning. ..............
Forum: rodboard

I'm glad we could be of help. .............
Forum: rodboard

Steven, Yes. .......................
Forum: rodboard

The trouble with building for any one aspect of rod use, is that while it may excel at that aspect, it may then be less than you'd hoped for in other areas. For instance, the rods used to set tournament casting records aren't necessarily very good rods for fighting a fish. If you need to cast, retrieve, fight a fish and bring the rod home in the same number of pieces you started with, you'll h
Forum: rodboard

I have a Mega F10810/11 IMX. That's about as close as I can come. Put your request up on the buy/sell page here. Somebody may very well have one lying around their shop. ................
Forum: rodboard

If he has 2 of the same parts on there, it won't need any heat. You can wipe it off with a finger. .............
Forum: rodboard

It will have no effect. All hardeners will darken over time but this does not affect their set, cure or other properties. ...............
Forum: rodboard

Chris, You do not have any "labor" charges when building and selling a rod. Things are not broken down into parts and labor. When you buy a shop vac, or a car, or a sandwich, do you see your invoice listing separate parts and labor charges? Of course not - you only see a single selling price and this is what you should be showing when you sell a custom rod. The excise tax is figu
Forum: rodboard

The book, Rod Building Guide, shows how to do this. You need to make your starting X, and then wrap the tag end around the blank a few turns. If you don't you're likely to just spin your crossing X around the blank, not really accomplishing anything. It will also help to wrap over the tag end at least 6 or 7 turns before cutting it. ...............
Forum: rodboard

When you sell a fishing rod, there is no "labor" charge. You are selling a complete item. The tax is based on the selling price of the rod.. On a repair to an existing rod, no excise tax is due. Your state tax department will still expect sales tax on the parts,and some are now collecting on labor as well, but the Federal Excise Tax on Sportsfishing Equipment does not apply to repair
Forum: rodboard

The hardener will always be the darker of the two. .............
Forum: rodboard

I position my reel seat to allow me to do what I need to do to fight the fish. Each scenario will be different, but I don't position my reel seats based on where I want them to be for a specific casting weight range. ..............
Forum: rodboard

Generally, the greatest accuracy is obtained from a 4-jaw non self centering chuck such as what you have. They are used primarily in the machine lathe trade. They also require careful set-up to get the most out of them. You don't need such a thing for wood turning and it's rare that wood turners bother with them. Your very best bet is to return that chuck and get a normal woodworking self-cent
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