That may actually have been Fishhawk chestnut. I don't keep track of the colors for each build but I believe it was chestnut.
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LOL, David, don't sell the color brown short! :) It looks pretty nice on the Immortal blank if you don't use color preserver.
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What I've been doing is using Riley's preformed cores which are 3/8" i.d. I then a put a Forecast shim on the lathe and carefully sand it down to 3/8" o.d. Then after I've shaped the Riley core I epoxy the Forecast shim into the center of the core. That gets me very close to the o.d. of most ice rod blanks. From there just use a little masking tape to build up the blank and you've
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Maybe you already are aware of this but Mudhole has it, but notes that price is not available.
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Good points Michael. You're right on target concerning the background showing through with clear-backs. I solved that by underwrapping with white nylon thread. I've come to like the way the light glistens off the thread even with a decal over it. Other colors can be used depending on what's such as metallics. The pearl thread that reflects the hints of blue/green/pick can make a great underw
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I never took a liking to vinyl, just me I guess. I've always used clear-back waterslides. The paper I use is very thin so edges are no concern. I'm REALLY picky about edges showing so these water slides are my go-to for most builds. I do have another process I use when applicable but it's more of a heat transfer process and no paper is invloved at all.
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Good advice Michael, I've used an Epson Artisan 710 for a number of years now using only factory ink packs from Epson. I don't leave my gear in direct sunlight but I haven't noticed any fading either and no negative reports from my customers. Even rods I built seven years ago, when I first started building, are looking good. Some of those were on an older HP printer using only factory ink.
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Check out any Salvation Army or Goodwill type stores in your area. They often have a few fishing rods available. Maybe a friend has an old Ugly Stick they're willing to part with.
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Thanks Lou. I was thinking the Tich guide feet visible over that particular colored blank may look really nice. Hence, the desire for the threadless look. This particular blank does lend itself to some really nice color possibilities.
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Thanks Roger. But to get to my specific question, you haven't tried wrapping with flouro to see the resulting "look"?
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I'm going to do a build on one of the Rainshadow RX8 blanks with the titanium finish. Was considering doing the threadless look using nylon white or silk. I haven't done this before so searched the forum and found several different posts on thinning with acetone or dna. One comment said not to go for the threadless look with mono line because it'll gives off a strong silver sheen. Has a
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The guides will include a direction sheet showing the stripper guide at 19.5" from the reel, the transition guide at 30.5" and the first running guide at 39 7/8". No need to vary the distances on these, they work quite well. Running guides are best place using the static method.
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You can make them yourself if you want. Go to a craft store like Michaels and get a 32oz can of casting resin, catalyst and Pearl Ex powdered pigments. You can create many different color combinations. I use various dimensions of PVC for molds. Here's an example of what is possible.
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LOL, Victor, here's one I did a few years ago. Be careful on trademark issues. I'm acquaintances with one of the head marketing guys for the Twins and he let me know that they're very protective of their brand. Good luck!
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"How are you guys making out with the clear backed labels? Are you getting them to disappear entirely under epoxy? " Tom, that is my question too. Would be happy to see more pictures of finished labels, specifically clear backed labels from the guys that are making the initial leap.
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I wasn't at the show in NC but would love to see some pictures of finished examples posted on the PHOTOS site.
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I've built my crankbait/topwater rods using the Rainshadow RX7 crankbait blanks. CB70M, MH and H have worked great for spooks, spinnerbaits, crankbaits, etc. I imagine the 6'6" versions would work quite well too.
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Nice thread Jeff. I listen to Songza on the internet. TONS of playlists. Last night it was Trans Am Rock. Night before it was Hillbilly Bodybuilding and Late Era Classic Rock. Tonight it may be Rat Pack : )
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Hi Wayne, I've done a ton of water slides and the only time I encountered your issue is when I tried using a setting solution. Epoxy isn't needed until you've applied the decal. All that's needed is your silver thread underwrap followed by one very wet coat of color preserver. After it's applied be sure to wick up any excess CP. When that's dry add one more coat of CP. Be sure that's ve
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Ken or Tom, Do you have any details on the decal making machine? Manufacturer, vendor, etc? I'm always looking for a way to improve a process.
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Bill, here's a photo that Mark Blabaum shared.
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You're right, there is no standard between manufacturers when describing a rod's action. Power too. Don't know the reason so I can't help you there. Maybe someone will chime in with that answer. If you build more than a few rods I'd suggest learning the Common Cents System. It's the only system I'm aware of that let's you put an objective measurement on action and power. There's a link ne
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That vendor may be getting ready for the ICRBE. I've had good luck with the paper available at Texascraft.com.
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Swampland may be able to help you.
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Must agree with Don. It depends what a builder specializes in. I build around 12 rods a year or so. According to my records I've built: 61 wood, mostly eastern red cedar 6 poured and turned acrylic 4 flocked 4 EVA/cork composite 2 EVA 1 cork Guess I know what I specialize in. :)
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Chuck Mills Wrote: > > I agree. My lathe is in the garage. It was just above freezing in the garage last night when I went out to trim a cork grip and final sand it. I have a 500W halogen lamp above the lathe and it feels like I'm standing under the sun. I was out there for 20 minutes with slippers and a fleece jacket on. > > Hint - don't wear a black fleece jacket when sa
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That's good news Michael. I've tried the older version of the paper and wasn't totally pleased with the results either. I want to pass along a tip to help your paper go further. 1) Set your printer to draft mode and regular paper. 2) Print the image on the regular paper. 3) Now cut a piece of vinyl paper that is 1/2" larger on each side than the image you just printed on regular pap
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Try a spiral wrap, no extra guides needed and makes the rod more stable under load.
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I just got a call from a fellow that has an old fly rod from his grandfather. He's looking for an appraisal and possibly wants so sell the rod. I don't have any experience with the bamboo side of things so I'm looking for someone here that may be able to help him. I don't have any details regarding the rod itself, just his contact information. If you can help please email me at ch
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I feel it's important to have your name on your work. Yes, it's advertising but it also shows you take pride in what you put out there. At a minimum, every rod I build gets my company name and a unique serial number. No complaints up to this point.
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