I cast the L with .230 total lure weight in the yard and it too is a very nice casting rod. I think it could go lower and higher in lure weight and still do well. Here is a link to the blanks: I'm going to dig out a lighter jig today and see how the rod likes it. It doesn't look promising for fishing them soon; the cold windy weather just won't give up. Water temp has been going dow
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I stopped by Dick's Sporting Goods yesterday, looked at all the rods on display. I really did not see anything really new, interesting, unique, or educational. I don't mean to sound arrogant, but there really was nothing there. I do not mean to sound dismissing of factory rods; I know there are many that are very good. One has to admit that millions of fish have been caught on them. But
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Yup, Ernie, that's how it can go. Unless syringes are used. Exc it's a little easier since scales can go to zero with the empty cup on the scale. "Tare"
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No, have not fished them. Have cast the ML in the yard with a light Ned jig with a Ned, and it casts beautifully. I wanted to try it because my old travel rod, which I used for light glider jigs for bones + the occasional cuda was hard to cast accurately. The rod is a 20/80 if I remember right, and it didn't load well with the light jigs and the action was too fast which required very exact ti
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Ernie, I think the only way to progressively add epoxy to a pan on a scale to mix with weight as the criteria, is to add it from a syringe. Until the total weight gets to be what you have calculated that you need. Sort of ironic in light of the debate, isn't it? Make a calculation error and you're screwed. Using weight for measuring epoxy, in my opinion, is a complex solution to a problem th
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The way my mind works, weight is not the right option. I used to do some carbon fiber grips where the epoxy used was mixed by weight ratio, and I had to be VERY careful not to screw it up. Syringes work just fine with me, just did a small job where I measured just a fraction of the normal volume and it worked just fine. Without getting out the calculator and scale. Weight might work for some,
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Jordan, I think you are right about the data; I believe the data came from me. I informed Kevin about it. It could be that I gave him the wrong number since I am building both blanks and may have mixed them up. The REVS72L-3 is about 270/11.9/72 I believe.
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Thank you, Roger.
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"It would be silly not to clean the rod in that situation." Of course. I didn't mean to advocate not cleaning up an old finish. I was referring to a second coat of epoxy over recently applied epoxy. After all, this was the original poster's question: "What is the definitive process for applying epoxy 48 hours or longer after the first coat? Does the existing epoxy need to
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"The only prep was to clean the rod." Chris, I think some detail on this should be given. Some might take this to mean clean with alcohol, and many do not recommend using any fluid for clean up. I just wipe with dry lint free paper towel and blow on it to make sure no dust is on it. If no sanding has been done, I'm not sure why clean up would even be necessary. Please give some d
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It would be a good idea to read "Perfect Thread Epoxy-It's Routine" in the Library, click on the task bar above.
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Todd, photo or link?
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Just did one over the decal area and the area between the seat and butt knob. Mixed it, applied it, blew through a straw on it, passed the side of a butane lighter flame along it, let it turn. Perfect. No drips, no heat lamp, no tent, no alcohol torch, no problem. Room temp about 67. Like Tom said. I think what many may be missing here is that there are things you can do to screw it up, t
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John, I've repeatedly said I'm not advocating tape, and I prefer foam. I was just posting that the weight difference is very small in spite of all the posts dissing them for their weight. But the arguments that they don't last are wrong if they are totally encapsulated. If one does a good job on fit and gluing of the seat and grips, no water will ever get in anyway. Earlier, someone menti
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Roger Wilson, about how many rods with tape arbors have you built? And no failures.
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We only have our opinions based on our experiences, Ernie. But my take is that "totally encapsulating" means totally covering the masking tape with epoxy so that no area of it can be exposed to anything. With a "slip fit" of the seat to the arbor, the seat slides on and epoxy covers enough/all of the seat to tape arbor interface. And bottom line, yes, plenty of strength. A
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Marcus, they don't deteriorate if you totally encapsulate them and if your joints are all water tight. The latter is not as important as the former. There is a long history of successfully using them. I expect the ones you saw were factory rods where skimping on materials and epoxy is quite common. I was not advocating them; simply clarifying the weight issue. I prefer rigid polyurethane,
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I would not use acetone. It will remove the finish from some blanks. Don't even have any in the house or shop. I would try Goo Gone. Seems to work on about anything sticky. You might try it on an unobtrusive area of the blank to ensure it doesn't affect the finish.
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I use two 3/4 inch arbors, placed almost to each ends of the spin seat. For foam arbors I go full length.
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I think the answer is obvious, they probably wouldn't like to know masking tape was used. But I highly suspect no one is going to ask that question and I wouldn't offer. . If they were to ask before the build I could switch if I had planned on a masking tape arbor. If they were to ask after the build I would tell them that I've never had a failure, that I totally encapsulate so no water gets t
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"When I build a tape bushing it is never perfectly flat on the edges (lots of little gaps) to hold epoxy." I make them as tight/hard as I can get them. Never had an issue.
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I don't fill that space. Just encapsulate the arbors.
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I'm also an advocate for blanks like Richard B. That's what the 20/80 is.
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To get the software to recommend the 20-10-5.5 up the line pound test until it gives the 20. Use that spacing. Since the heights of the guides are not exactly the same different spacing will be called out.
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Robert, I think Tom is right. I expect the amount of epoxy is about the same. Either way, as David Baylor points out, it's not much weight. David, I agree, but thought some might be interested since every time it comes up some comment on how heavy masking tape is. I like to use foam arbors, too, but didn't have one. I think foam arbors are easier than tape. Buy to fit the ID of the seat, gl
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I've read so many times of the disadvantage of the weight of masking tape arbors, but never weighed them. Until today. Two 3/4 inch arbors with wall thickness of .140 inch weight a total of .062 ounces. Yes, I know rigid polyurethane is better. Didn't have any and wanted to get on with the build. No, I've never had a failure of a masking tape arbor. I totally encapsulate mine and with my
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If you have a blank/rod that you like and want to duplicate it, set up to do your own CCS numbers, measure it, then find a blank that closely matches. With the thousands of blanks available, and a pretty good data base of CCS numbers, it should be quite easily possible.
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"How about a Mag Taper blank? With the lighter tip and stronger butt section" That is what the 20/80 is. I just built a 15/71 (REV72SMLF) and is does a great job at casting light jigs. Accurate, forgiving, great distance. I think it will be my backup spin rod in the boat next January. And will be my favored Ned rod this summer. Here is a review I did on it if you're interested:
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I'm not getting the point of the comment relative to this topic. ??
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To be sure that any contaminants like mold release are not present on the bores of reel seats I put scotchbrite into the patch slot of a shotgun cleaning rod and spin it through the bore with a drill driver for about 30-40 seconds.
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