Do a search for painting rod blanks, there should be a ton of info. Make sure you put in "All Dates"! The fusion will work fine but isn't durable for the most part. You should clear it but most clears in a spray can will end up flaking after time and most isn't very scuff resistant!!
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Sounds like one of their Tri Flex composites!!
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I know first hand it doesn';t like solvent!! I coated an old Conolon surf rod with it and some alcohol on a paper towel touched the blank and wrinkled the stuff right off! I Did a freshwater blank for my father and coated it with Max Seal he spilled two stroke gas wiped it with a towel and the towel layed against the rod taking the finish right off. Now I got good results looks wise with it bu
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I have used the Max Seal and while it stays pretty clear it has a slight bluish tint, it also is NOT solvent resistent so if you build a boat rod keep it away from gas. I poured it into a tube of PVC and dipped it. It sets rather quick and is hard in 24 hours. Just note it is not as hard as a solvent paint finish I now spray my blanks with 2k auto finish in a gun but a product called Spray Max
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You challenging me Billy? It is almost time for me to do my yearly dec wrap!! Russ, come to the HP show and you can see it all first hand. Worth the every bit!! Once you really do a wrap all the stuff starts to click and it becomes easier. I used to be intimadated by it but now I have the grasp of it I fear it no more. Don't get me wrong I'm not good at it but I also don't do many at all but
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That's what is funny, I hear all this talk about how secretive it was back in the day. Really not to long ago!! I understand the mind set in being protective about stuff but today with the internet there are no secrets!! Though with people like Tom who spend who knows how much time putting together the show and magazine and dealing with the site the sharing thing has to happen.I don't know what I
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I think these are something I'm going to give a try as soon as I can. I like people who think outside the box and who knows this might be the new thing!! Besides the company is local to me!!
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Aren't all rods really hand made!!! I do production type rods . The guide layouts are not what you would find on most "factory" rods but the rods are still kind of generic and not built to a specfic person.But I also have a semi custom line which you can order a rod and pick certain options, but still limited to what you can get. I also do full blown customs but under a different name.
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To answer your question about the NERBS. It is not a club, Nothing to join, There is a charge to come to a gathering which is basicly to cover the cost of food and drink. ( if you go away hungry you can only blame yourself) . The NERBS are a group of rod builders that set out to share info and show technics to builders who want to learn. There are enough different builders style wise to answer n
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Talon has the 9' Cairnton in a 4# and these are fast action and the Highlander in a 7'6" but it's a 4 weight and might not be the fast blank your looking for but worth a look!
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Call Versitex I beleive they carry the blanks!
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The ones I have seen are called Evolution. Not super light but they are strong!!
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Seeker Hercules 7' Light model or CSW708 inshore model.
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Chuck, Might be right! We might dismiss the product and never try it , but who knows it might work great. I wonder if they laughed at Edisons light bulb?? I'm not defending the product so much but just dismissing it doesn't make it bad or good. We need more people to come up with new ideas and take chances. The thing is if Fuji or Amtak came out with the product how many would jump on it??
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Hey, at least someone is out there trying to come up with something new I'll say that!!
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Check out Talon's website in the blank section, They have a light spinning section that might have a blank you want. If not I'll bet they can make one for you if you call, just ask for Jean. Oh and they might be able to do a color for you as well. Great people to deal with!!
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Some factorys use a device that uses a trough and squeegee where you stick the blank through the squeegee and into a paint filled trough. Most units tilt back and coat the blank. They also circulate the paint to keep it from thickening. Some use the tube dip method which is just a long tube filled with paint they dip the blank and hang it to level and drip dry. Some if not all use a special heat
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As you said in your write up Rick and I couldn't agree and it can't be stressed enough about prep. I'm very anal about my prep and have it down to a science since again time is money and I can't spend a ton of time messing around. That said I can't and try not to compromise the quality by skipping over steps. As for an spray gun my dream gun would have a spray head that would have a half moon
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Nice write up for sure with great info! I use 2K auto finish and really after seeing the factory apply finish I feel this is my best choice. Both products can get you good results but.. I have tried to spray PG but no thinned with Mineral... I found that it gave me an egg shell finish which I beleive was from it flashing off to quick. Your method I'll have to try. The question above about havi
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I'm sure it's S-glass. In some Asian countrys it's known as T-glass.
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If the scratches are in the glass and not the finish you most likely won't sand them out. Glass boat rods can take a light wet sand to the glass so you can try. Make sure you wash your hands very very good after sanding or you will itch like mad. Truely the best finish is a two part auto clear that is made in a spray can. If your any good at spray painting you can do this. Google " auto cle
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I got that yesterday from you.. I deleted it! This happened to my freind last week! Do these people get off on this stuff?? by the way how was your trip to Spain.. lol
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The stuff you are refering too is plenty flexible for a rod blank. I have used it many many times!
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I have one like that it's a beryllium copper. I think these were made just after the WWII but not sure.
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The Super Tog is one of the most versitale blanks out there!!
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I really beleive that we do put more pressure on a rod casting more then fighting fish and with surf casting that is mostly true. The only thing about that is the only constant is the or can be the casted weight, The fishes weight and fighting strength can change from a guppy to a whale... Chuck I'll buzz you up later!!
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Having had to rate and still am rating surf blanks for casting weight I do it the "tried and true" method. I test cast with weights in 1/2 oz incriments and see how little it will cast and how much until it "goes soft" ! Say I have a blank that casts on the low side 3/4 but will throw 5oz ok on the high side but it goes soft at 5 1/2 oz. I'll rate the rod 3/4 -4. I'll also tak
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I have used AP but I haven't noticed any difference! I have also used some one part colors for airbrush and that is when I'll use the AP but as said if it helps or not I can't say. The biggest problem I have had is humidity and the problem won't show it self sometimes for a while. Problems like delamination of the clear from the color due to trapping mostiure under the finish!! Good prep like a w
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Sounds like your all set up! I use a HVLP jam gun and my pressure ajustment will vary depending on what I'm shooting but is generally 10-14psi.
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For an easy 2K auto ureathane clear that anyone can spray do a Google search for "2K auto clear" It comes in a spray rattle can (YES IT'S A 2 PART CLEAR) and is great for guys who only spray one rod as year. I would say you can get 2 rods 7' long painted with one can. You MUST wear a respirator type mask!! This is the best rod finish short of using pro spray equipment or having acess to
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