Your favorite is subject to how much product is moved through the factory. If it's a good quanity then maybe they will pull a blank from a run and test it. That said most blanks are checked and bent after the cello is stripped and the blank is sanded but before it;'s coated. Smaller shops have the ability to check each and every blank for defect which is visual and bending the blank as well as ho
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Talon Graphite would like to thanks Tom again for putting on great show. We Can't think of a better way to show our product to the many rod builders from all over the country. So Thanks again for all your hard work and making this show a premier event. We hope to see everyone again next year, so thank you again from Dwight, Jean and John.
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Thanks Ken, see you there!!
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I have found that with Procoat and Afcote 18 rpms is great, so anywhere from 12-18rpm IMO. This stuff is a little thinner and takes longer to set then some others. I use Afcote and Threadmaster and I can spin threadmaster a 10rpm and will be fine but the Afcote wants to move a bit more so I up the rpms a bit. Hope this helps!!
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Since you don't have the rod yet I guess you don't know if it's a Blue Lightning series S-glass carbon or a E-glass/carbon. The E-glass version will be either all black or graphite transition into honey colored E-glass. IMO the old E-glass models are softer then the Blue Lightning models. Spiral wrapped would great on that blank!!
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99% of all surf rods are 2pc now. Lamiglas makes some 1 pc blanks still. There are lots of choices in that range it all depends on what you want to spend. For throwing chunks/bait I use a Talon 1329 which is 11' 8-14oz. Very nice blanks. But there are many choices slow action, fast action and moderate!!
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Did Steve design or go threw all of this for fame and fortune?? No.. I think he did it to better the sport he loves and to build a better rod. I would say if you want fame and $..... Rod building isn't the place too be!! It was a nice article you wrote Tom and yes, well deserved!
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Who is Steve Gardner?? LOL.. I didn't know that he was the micro "founder" but it makes sence since he is the bass rod king!!
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kevin knox Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Why on earth would you mix Threadmaster with > anything? I 'll sometimes Afcote first coat straight then 50/50 Afcote and Threadmaster then straight Threadmaster if third coat. Somtimes I'll just go 50/50 and top with threadmaster. The Afcote has a ureathane in it to keep it flexiable and I have far less cra
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Lou, I do think that we will be selling blanks if someone wants. We are really trying to bring a little of everything to show case what Talon is all about and get the word out that we are still out there making Quality blanks in the USA. I almost forgot to mention we will be showing for the first time a new freshwater line of blanks made up of a high modulus blend of graphite that will be going
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We need to limit the ammount of blanks being brought to about 30. In this 30 we are trying to cover the whole catalog of which there are over 600 different actions. We will have Fly, Salmon, Freshwater bass really a variety to show everyone what we have. As Billy mentioned we will also have the new east coast surf plugging blank line there which I'm very happy with. Thanks for your intrest in Tal
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If we are talking cork tape and or shrink over cork tape the way I do it is build an epoxy ramp. I like to use Flex coat liquid epoxy glue which is harder to use then say U-40 paste type. It's not hard to do just takes some time to do it. The trick is to shape it and leave it alone to spin on the dryer (liquid stuff) You can also build it up with thread and then coat it with epoxy.
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With a reel that size you will have no problem using a size 25 stripper guide . I'll assume braid will be used!! I build all my surf rods NGC and start with the smallest guide and try to get the line down quick. Might look like this: #25,16,10, 8,8,8,8 tip. Give or take a guide depending on stadic test!!
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Are we talking the frames?? The stainless black can over time rust . I use Titanium Alconites so never worry about corrosion!
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Check with Versitex, don't know if their listed on their site but give them a call they had quite a few last i saw!!
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Never met Bernie but have to say I can see where Billy got his influence. His inlay/grip work are works of art!!
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Thanks Gabe!!
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Stick with a ureathane either single part or two part. The one part is the easiest and You won't get a better material for coating the grips. Very scratch resistant, very clear much more the spar varnish and not hard to repair if needed. Your thinking out side the box but I wouldn't sweat it and stick with what others already know work!
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I haven't used the new Prokote so I can't comment but I have heard ok stuff. I use Afcoat and Threadmaster and these have been so far the best for "staying clear" Though it seems that they all yellow just some faster then others. Flexcoat and more so if it's older will yellow before it's dry LOL! IMO Flexcoat needs to update their formulas, It seems to be outdated!! New technology in R
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Seeker still makes the 10' all glass 540 blank but the only extensions I know of are the SJ/ Ulua extensions fit the SJ100 and the ULua blanks. I have the Ulua blanks but the extensions are pretty pricey . I use Talon which have the woven graphite butt sections on the Ulua blanks.
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You don't need a all glass rod though I do have two Sabres that I built for Columbia River Sturgeon. You should look at some of the Seeker blanks in the Blue Lighting or Super Seeker or Hercules line. They make a few light tipped but powerful rods. They are composite glass/graphite blanks!
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SB1266 3/4-3oz 10'6" SB1267 2-5 oz 10'6" SB1086 3/4-3oz 9' SB1028 1-3oz 8'6" CSW1008 3/4 -3 10'
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I didn't think they sold the blanks, I thought they only did factory rods on their blanks!! I have not tried them but if I remember they are a unsanded blank!!
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I think Kevin is right and Roger makes a good point! But.. If you are to use an out wrapper to build your rods and your going to call them custom I think you should at least tell the customer you didn't actually build the rod!! This brings back the post awhile back about "what makes a custom a custom??" Well if you send specs off to an out wrapper and they make this rod to these specs f
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I know it's mostly out of some people's doing but as I have posted many times the only thing I have found short of doing what the factory does having a rod blank shot or shooting it yourself with a 2K auto is the best I have found. It's flexible, tough and very very clear. It is now sold in spray can form. Not cheap at about $20 a can but it works very well. really al you need is a warm area to p
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I have not used it but I beleive it's just a polyureathane with a naptha base. It might be good for dip coating blanks. If it says don't use over white then you know it's not clear, it must be amber!!
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I haven't had a chance tto mess with it but I did check it out as well as the rest of the Anglers Resource site and I have to say I'm pretty impressed with it. I think I'm going over there now to mess with the GPS to see what all the hub bub is!!
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Fred can't say I do for sure but I might have that blank in my... ummm hoard of blanks. I'll need some time to look thru but.. If I do you will have to buy the whole blank As I won't seperate it. I'll check and see some time this week. It's a long shot but I have a lot of All Star blanks!!
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Your a class act Denny and hope to see you there this year!!
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Talon B132 in a VI plus and not the ITM would be another i would suggest. It has a med /fast action that works well with fishing eels or snag and drop for Bunker. if it's got to be glass then i would suggest the Seeker SU line.
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