You wont have an issue with color fast thread. All the epoxy does is protect the thread wrap. Dan Grulke
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No CP needed on sulky metallic. DG
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X2 sulky it's a little thinner than A size thread but has a strong breaking point. Dan
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How long has the first coat been dry? If for an extended amount of time gently scuff the surface of the wrap with scotchbtite, that will allow the second coat to adhere to the first coat, it maybe that the first coat is pushing the epoxy and not adhering to it. Without seeing its hard to really say though. DG
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Could also be that the rod was not centered correctly in the chuck. If the rod is spinning in a lopsided manner then then the epoxy may level unevenly. Did the power go out for any amount of time? I had that happen where the power went out for 10 minutes, epoxy sagged a little, when the power came back on, it rotated again, and the sag that started to form didn't work its way out. Its definitely
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Silly metallic 7015 DG
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Sulky metallica has one I use that matches well. I will send the thread color later today when I get home. It is very close match to Gudebrod Aquamarine. DG
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Is this like alternative Facts???? LOL. DG
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I use rod bond, some use devcon epoxy, some use Pro Paste.Either of these will work. I have no experience with the product you mentioned. DG
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I wrap all rods by hand, however every time I use an under wrap on a surf rod or long boat rod I wish I wasn't doing it by hand. I do use a lathe for turning but the big advantage of a power wrapper is that with the right set-up you can eliminate the need for a separate lathe, if you have space issues. DG
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OOPS posting as you posted...lol
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I have had a failure when I reamed the arbor too much for a bigger blank and there wasn't much arbor left. Usually with more of the arbor intact it is stronger. When you take it apart you will know for sure what happened but my guess would be that the arbor broke free from the inside of the reel seat not the arbor from the blank. I usually sandpaper the inside of the reel seat to scuff it up good
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Thanks guys Didn't make since to me either since the package model # was similar to boat roads of Fiberglass and the butt numbers couldn't find anything. Roger you are correct it will make a killer small creak trout rod. DG
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I test cast my rods with tape holding them down. It holds better than the dental type bands as those are stretchy. Once casted and positioned I use dental bands to hold down guides when wrapping. Thanks, Dan G
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Bought a fenwick blank with header card labeled LGTB665 and on butt t6201. It is gloss brown 5'8" and appears to be a panfish/trout blank. Blank does not have the silk screened fenwick emblem. Any ideas what I have or specs? Thanks Dan G
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Thanks Tom! DG
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Came across this blank the other day and before I purchase it does anyone have any info such as weight ratings? I'm coming up empty in my search. Thanks, Dan
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What about cork tape, spiral 100-120 pound test and glue over the cork tape, and then shrink wrap? Just a though and works for me. DG
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I have built about 15 rods on that blank with tenessee handles. It is one of the lightest and most sensitive blanks I have built on. Beware due to the small diameter of the tip there is little error for high sticking, abuse, and lure knocks, and banging in rod lockers. Dan Grulke
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Thanks guys. Gives me a starting point. Dan G
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Looks like my first post disappeared. Are the old Loomis decals waterslide or peel and stick? I have a blank with the sticker but can't tell. Thanks, Dan G
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In a pinch one time I used an Airedales hair to tie a dry fly...caught a fish on it too. Dan G
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White silk turns transparent with epoxy. What decal is it? St.Croix's and decal connection hardly ever lift with no CP used. I have issues with rainshadow decals but lay a thin coat of epoxy down first, let it dry, apply decal over it, wrap edges with trim bands, then apply another coat of epoxy. Thanks, Dan G
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OLIVE OR forest green. Dan G
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Eric has given good advice, though not what you are looking for. I haven't found a high modulus blank that excells at dings, bumps, lure knocks, boat bangs, or high sticking. The sc3's sc4 and rx7 are better for that type of thing. Maybe braid on a sc3 would help with sensitivity. If not I would go the sv4 route. DG
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I have large hands and use size 17 on all my bass and pike rods. Size 16 on panfish rods. DG
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What sells for me is asking numerous questions and building a rod that is comfortable, geared to their specific fishing style/technique, and can out perform a produced rod. Of course fitting and putting together of rod is as important as well; people usually don't like "hack" jobs even if they do fish well. DG
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As Randy stated our best results will be black and white under neath in the same size thread, with pink and a sacrificial thread in the same size as the bottom thread on the top. Wrap loosely and burnish well for more effect. DG
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As Herb said or use a Dream Reamer or Wonder Reamer in a lathe or drill. Herbs options is best as it cuts through the composite cork better. The Dream Reamer works also but you have to go slower as it doesn't cut the cork as fast. DG
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No CP needed for metallics they will hold its color without it. I do use rod dancer/threadmaster brand on nylons though
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