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3 months ago
roger wilson
This is a grip that I turned from Alaska - Diamond Willow. The client had brought it back with him after a trip to Alaska.
I ended up making several ice rods with these wood grips turned on a lathe.
For the rod finish, I simply used 2-coats of flex coat thread finish and it has held up very well indeed.
Be safe
Forum: rodboard 3 months ago
roger wilson
Tolo,
As one wise wizard once said,
"Always start at the beginning and continue until you get to the end."
Start with tools.
Progress to purchase.
Continue with build.
Finish up with a limit of fish caugth with this pole.
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If you purchase a kit, you can build the rod with a cardboard box, with v's cut in each end to support
Forum: rodboard 3 months ago
roger wilson
Marcus,
When I was building lots of ice fishing rods, I was buying 5 inch grips that worked very well. Since I was doing so many, it just made more sense to purchase the grips, ready to go.
For myself, every ice rod that I own uses a tape on reel seat. When fishing in the cold, the cork grip is much warmer than any sort of metal, nylon or other reel seat material.
Forum: rodboard 3 months ago
roger wilson
Lee,
Here in the midwest I mainly build rods for users of "Walleye" rods.
For anything except jigging, nearly any blank of the right length action and power will work for trolling, bobber fishing, or crank bait fishing.
But, jig fishing is a bit of a different animal - so to speak.
I expect that my jig sticks use the most expensive blanks in my rod collections.
The re
Forum: rodboard 3 months ago
roger wilson
Note:
When building rods for the kids some years ago, I went to mudhole and purchased 6 foot ultra light rod blanks in their assorted rod blank catagory for very little money. I think that at the time I was paying about $3 per blank - when I bought a dozen at a time.
I built up the rods with eva grips, a simple reel seat and inexpensive buides. I mounted small inexpensive open face spinn
Forum: rodboard 3 months ago
roger wilson
Jonathan,
Perfect!!
You did the perfect guide wrap and finish application to have a really great looking rod.
Unless, specifically requested by a client, I never use CP.
In my eyes, CP changes the appearance on a rod that is not to my liking.
I very much appreciate the semi transparent look that one gets by using non NCP thread along with no CP.
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Forum: rodboard 3 months ago
roger wilson
Mark,
With respect to your finish problems.
1. Use a quality brand finish.
2. Mix the part A and the part B, in the exact ratio specified by the manufacturer. With most of today's product, the mix is equal parts - by volume - of part A and part B. It is very easy to get the exact equal parts by using syringes to measure the volume of each part a and part b. For myself, I simply put an ext
Forum: rodboard 3 months ago
roger wilson
p.s
Especially, at this time of the year, consider using an ice fishing blank for use for a childrens rod.
You can pick up very inexpensive fiberglass ice fishing rod blanks up to 4 feet or so that will do just fine for a youngsters blank that will be very light and easy to use.
Or:
Pick up a "Snoopy" fishing rod and reel from your favorite ratiler for $15 and take a child
Forum: rodboard 3 months ago
roger wilson
John,
When diagnosing chuck run out or wobble, be sure to concentrate on only ont thing.
i.e. the chuck and its jaws.
You are concerned with the chuck, the chuck mount and the chuck jaws.
You are not concerned with rod stands, the rod rests, nor the lathe bed. Of course all of these parts are necessary for a perfect rod wrapper, but none of these items have anything to do with chuck ru
Forum: rodboard 3 months ago
roger wilson
Al,
Any time you have a question of this sort - you have already answered the question.
In a word.
If you have a question about a guide, cut it off, and redo the guide.
If you happen to use guide adhseive, personally, I wouldn't use it. I early found out that it was too easy to get too much adhesive on the guide foot, and end up causing a later issue.
I simply use painters str
Forum: rodboard 3 months ago
roger wilson
Ditto, on Herb's comment.
Really tough to beat the overall success of a fly rod sing standard wire guides.
Be safe
Forum: rodboard 3 months ago
roger wilson
Kerry,
I use the same method except with a slight difference:
I simply start with a heavy hook screwed into a stud, so that it does not pull out.
Then, take a heavy rubber band and attach it to the tip top that you want to remove.
Finally loop the rubber band over the hook mounted on the wall.
I then use heat to soften the epoxy while maximum tension is being applied to the
Forum: rodboard 3 months ago
roger wilson
For the typical non frequent fisherman, these is nothing wrong at all using stainless guides.
But, since much of the force on a guide during casting and catching fish - is on the tip top, a good compromise is to use stainless guides with a ceramic tip top of the material of your choice.
Best wishes.
Forum: rodboard 3 months ago
roger wilson
For the typical non frequent fisherman, these is nothing wrong at all using stainless guides.
But, since much of the force on a guide during casting and catching fish - is on the tip top, a good compromise is to use stainless guides with a ceramic tip top of the material of your choice.
Best wishes.
Forum: rodboard 3 months ago
roger wilson
Mark,
Over the years, I have tried many different thread tension adjustments.
Today, I use sufficient tenson so that I can just barely move a guide using both thumbs on the guide to move it.
If I can move a guide with just a couple of fingers, I cut it off and start over.
Best wishes.
Forum: rodboard 3 months ago
roger wilson
Ryan,
Or, as long as you are careful, a heat gun works really well to assist in removing the paint.
Particularly in the tip area, be sure to avoid over heating the blank or you will damage it permanently.
Otherwise, just use gentle heat and a single edge razor blade.
Always hold the razor blade at 90 degrees to the blank when scraping That will avoid the issue of getting into the blank
Forum: rodboard 4 months ago
roger wilson
Bob,
What speed do you really need for finish application.
For example, if you simply use a 100 rpm motor with the slip clutch and a variable speed controller and power supply you can easily have dryig speeds down to 10 rpm.
This is a dryer that I built in 2018 using a flex coat chuck as the connecter to the rod.
This was a stand that I have used for many different motors over t
Forum: rodboard 4 months ago
roger wilson
If youhave problems with the pilot bits wrecking your particular build, then don't use them.
If you do use them and have a method to give you a perfect job continue using them.
For myself, I have built up a set of tapered files of various sizes to use when reaming.
I turn the files counter clockwise to avoid - screwing into the material being reamsed and split the material.
For exa
Forum: rodboard 4 months ago
roger wilson
Miles,
For boat fishing, unless you are in a kyak, some extra length normally works to your advantage.
Go with a 6'3" 6'8" or 6'10" -- with no nipping on the length.
If you are just fishing over the side of the boat with little to no casting, then a shorter length may be to your advantage, but if you have any casting at all; the additional length will be to your advantag
Forum: rodboard 4 months ago
roger wilson
Note:
I always store my epoxy bottles in their normal upright stowed position - to paraphrase the directions from the air crew - before landing the plane.
Then, in order to be able to reach the bottom of the bottle, I simply place an extension on the end of each syringe that will reach to the bottom of the container. I use appropriate sizes and lengths of old rod blank stock for an exten
Forum: rodboard 4 months ago
roger wilson
Bruce,
Your issue about air bubbles in syringes is really a non issue.
Simply put, If your supply bottle is upright, and you wish to use a syringe, work the syringe up and down a couple of times to be sure that it is not binding up and is clear.
Then, with the syringe fully closed insert the tip of the syringe or an extension that you may place on the end of the syringe, and suck the par
Forum: rodboard 5 months ago
roger wilson
Note:
An excellent way to have a power wrapper is to have a motor on the power wrapper that will reliably turn the rod continuously at 5 rpm and simply turn up the speed to any faster speed that you wish for wrapping.
That way, you are working on a rod and wrap at speeds that are convenient for you.
Then, when it is time to apply finish you can apply finish at any speed up to the maximu
Forum: rodboard 5 months ago
roger wilson
David,
I do the same thing as you do.
I build a full length grip including any contrasting material that I may use for a butt cap.
I use material with a hole in the middle - including the material that I use for the butt cap.
Then, I can put the full length grip on the lathe and turn all of the grip - including the butt cap.
Thank as you do, I will cut a plug, using a plug cutter.
Forum: rodboard 5 months ago
roger wilson
By the way, if you want a convenient way to add weight convenienty and in the best location, try lead tape.
Lead tape is used industry wide to balance tennis rackets as well as golf clubs.
Essentially the last inch of rod blank at the butt of the rod is used to wrap on the lead tape.
Lead tape comes in various widths. I find that 1/2 inch widths is a convenient length to use.
Es
Forum: rodboard 5 months ago
roger wilson
If you decide to add weight to the rod, Only add the weight at the extreme butt end of the rod.
Never put weight up the inside of the rod blank.
By putting weight up the inside of the rod blank, you are doing very little to balance the rod, but you are doing a magnificient job in making the rod heavier.
It is all about balance and lever arm. When you put weight up the inside of rhe ro
Forum: rodboard 5 months ago
roger wilson
Just keep a few thin wall plastic pvc tubes around for such needs. But, before using the tubes, drop a rope through the tube and then, tie a long thin towel on the rope and pull it back through the tube a few times to insure that the inside of the tube is 100% clean. Then, just put the incompleted rod in the tube and put test caps on each end to ensure that nothing gets into the tube.
o
Forum: rodboard 5 months ago
roger wilson
A few ideas.
I shop vaccum works very well for dust collection.
I made an L shaped stand from lumber such that the hole holding the floor vacuum attachment is placed - so that the line of the floor vacuum attachment is in line with the center of the mandrel holding the cork grip being turned.
In addition, purchase or make a water filter that fits in between the vacuum hose and the i
Forum: rodboard 5 months ago
roger wilson
Alan,
I put the inserts on the rod dryer and apply two coats of thread finish and let cure.
Easy and very long lasting.
Forum: rodboard 5 months ago
roger wilson
Just take some black electrical tape and put a double wrap on the scratch and the rod will look like it was built that way.
If the scratch bothers you and you don't want to do anything with it - then retire the rod and get on with your life.
Best wishes
Forum: rodboard 5 months ago
roger wilson
Ryan,
Here, for example is a multiple rod dryer that was built many years ago and has been used over the years to dry many many rods.
The motor in this example happens to be an AC motor with a controller that varies the speed from 0-50 rpm.
In use the dryer is set to turn generally at 10-15 rpm.
But, for special needs can be adjusted to turn more slowly or faster.
Forum: rodboard |