Bill, thanks for the reply but, no, I'm even getting this on regular paper. I've noticed my ink volume is set to the default which is about 50%. Will increasing this help the black or exacerbate the problem?
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I'm using the vinyl decal media from Swampland to print labels. Using Corel X5 software to create an image in 400x400 dpi, and printing to an HP Photosmart printer set to photo print with best quality. My black background is coming out slightly purple. Well, maybe not purple, but certainly not as black as I'd like. I'd like to get a true black similar to a black Sharpie. I've set the color w
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Okay guys, just curious. What does "spey" mean in regards to blanks, rod building, etc.? I see it mentioned frequently and I don't know if it's an acronym or what. Never heard the term here in the deep south but thought it would be a good thing to know in case I ever need one. Heck, I might need one right now and just don't know it. Go ahead, let me have it.
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Don't pull the thread all the way out. Most people insert the tie off loop about 5 or 10 winds before they reach the end. Instead, insert it about halfway through the wrap. I've inserted it as much as 1/4 inch from the end. Then, when you reach the end of the wrap, just pull the tie-off loop up snug and under the last wind of thread. This will hold the thread temporarily. Now, cut the tag re
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Thanks guys. Was going to attempt using D thread but I see the point of how small it is. I'll see if I can adjust something in my setup to make it bigger.
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I've posted a jpg file of a simple logo that I need to weave on a blank. 3 colors- white, black, garnet. I want to weave it longitudnally on a 1/2 inch diameter blank and in less than 25 threads wide. Can anyone turn it into a left list for me? I also have it as a bmp. Thanks, Greg Marshall
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Steven, You'll be surprised at what that Castaway will do. With all micros (#4 all the way) and a Shimano Curado reel, that is absolutely the sweetest outfit made for throwin crankbaits as light as 1/4 oz. I've yet to throw a 3/4 oz on mine but the nice thing about it is that it's also good for chunkin small to medium buzzbaits a country mile when you need to start your retrieve way on the oth
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Would a "lined" 1/2 pint paint can work for storing Permagloss with the screw n' eye method or does the can need to be bare tin on the inside? Just wondering, I could clean up an old stain can and use it but they all have a lining in them. Looks like it may be some kind of epoxy lining.
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Steven, Well, PG is a multi, multi coat finish. You can use it to apply to thread wraps or as a rod coating. From your post I didn't get which one you are trying so I'll tell you what I do on both. When applying to threads, I've had the best results - outside mind you - by applying 5, 6 or even 7 really thin coats. And, applying it is like epoxy with respect to how much you apply; you've
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Chad, From what I understand, the jury is still out on those reel seats. I had one vendor tell me over the phone that some of them don't match the standard size preshaped cork grips and that they are uncomfortable. I think some vendors are reluctant to get into them now. I hope they'll chime in, I'd like to hear from them myself.
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Simple question, I hope. How do you guys paint a graphite reel seat? What kind of prep, paint, etc? And then, what kind of finish/protectant do you put on it that will stand up to the rigors of bass fishing?
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Have searched the yard sales and scrap bins and can't find what I'm looking for. Thought you guys might be able to help. I need to extend some blanks and I need graphite extensions whose smallest end diameter is .550" at the minimum. Need a pretty beefy wall but I still have to fit inside a 20 mm reel seat so the O.D needs to be under .78" about 4" down from the small end. Oh,
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Okay, I've read the rod repair tutorial in the library. Here's what I've got: A Shiamno Cumara rod has been brought to me for repair. It's suppose to be 6'8". The tip is broken off and is now 6'2". He didn't keep the piece that broke off. I have a 6" section of graphite that I can cut to match at the break point, but the wall thickness of my section is greater than the ori
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I fought the fuzzies a long time and discovered that the wire on the Pac Bay wrapper tensioner spring hook that allows you to back up a little had worn to the point that it was fuzzing the thread. It actually had a goove in it similar to what you normally see on the SS304 tips when someone has been using braid. So, check your tensioner if you have one. Also, those little ceramic thread guides
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I'm seeing pics of reel seats on casting rods that are trimmed really close to the fore end of the nut when the reel is in place. So, my question is, how well does this work when taking the reel on and off? And, can we assume that most reels have a foot of similar length? I've been cutting a few threads off the end of the barrel when I trim the front end of the reel seat, but, after the reel i
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Roger, Those are the kind that go on the rod holder. I'm looking for the kind that goes on the bottom of the thread carriage that fits into the track that it glides on.
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Looking for a source that has a good selection of wheel/rollers like what is on the bottom of the thread carriage of the Pac Bay wrapper. Or, does Pac Bay sell them seperately? Thanks. Greg Marshall
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Tom is right. But I suspect it's not as blatant as it seems. I've had this happen from time to time too and couldn't put my finger on it. There is absolutely no water anywhere near my wrapping and finishing area and I never use water on or near wraps for any kind of cleaning. I go to extra effort to make sure things are dry. However, I'm outside in a nature controlled environment meaning all
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Not meant to hi-jack the thread, but who then would be getting the better quality blank, production rod companies, or custom builders? Seems to me the production rod companies would have more leverage.
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I'm thinking of taking the train (Amtrak) to the expo. I've never travelled by train before and I'm looking for input from those who have. I'm coming from Hattiesburg, MS.- HBG to HPT. How close is train station in HPT to the expo? Will it be possible to move about in High Point for a couple o' days without renting a car (meals, hotel, etc.)? If I purchase something at the expo, ya think I
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Hmmm, Now that you mention it, I also applied with the door open and rain outside. But, since I had turn, I stayed with it for 30 minutes and saw the milkiness start to happen. Figured what the heck, and closed up and set the rod spinning. Came back and saw the tracks. Pretty sure it ain't a one-legged bug though as he did the same on most all of the wraps. Could've been a family of em I su
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I always test for cure in the cup. I wiped the wrap with the sham as I thought I saw a "sweat" or beads of something wetting it. It is not bubbles. It could be bursted bubbles but it definitely is not sealed bubbles. These are tiny craters in the finish. There is a slight milky appearance that doesn't come through well in the lighting. I always pour my finish out on a flat of tin
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The swipes are from my wiping with shammy after the cure to make sure it was dry. This is the first application. Gudebrod nylon size A thread. No Braid Aid, don't buy WD-40, blank is fiberglas and this is a repair job so the old finish was scraped off cleaned with ISO and allowed to set for a coupla days. Mixing cups from Acid Rod, only thread prep was gentle draggin of a tack cloth over the
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Anybody know what's causing this? I experienced it years ago in cold weather whenever I used Flex Coat. I switched to LS and it never did it in hot or cold weather. But, found LS had other problems or perhaps my technique wasn't what LS wanted. Switched to ThreadMaster. Now, the TM is doing this in hot weather. 94 degrees out when I did this and yes the humidity was high. Think the moistur
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Is "Interline" the brand name or are you talking about the rods that have the line running inside of the blank? If it's the latter, I don't think you can find em anymore as they pretty much flopped.
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Does anybody sell a 5'6" bass blank anymore? I'm partial to the Castaway blanks but I don't think they make anything under 6'6". I need to build 2 pistol grip bass blanks for fishing tight areas while providing a good chance for pinpoint accuracy at about 40-50ft, hence the short rod, using 10 - 14 lb mono and throwing anything from a texas rig worm to a Devil's Horse to a 1/2 oz. Sn
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Thats it! I'll go with the Pac Bay's BSHG. Thanks guys.
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Photo links below show some guides I ripped off of an old spinning rod brought to me. Some were missing their ring. I'd like to replace em all with the same thing. Does anyone know what style (GLV...,LCT..., etc.) these guides are and where can I find em? I know they are Fuji double foot spinning rod guides and the sizes are stamped into the base of the foot, as is "Fuji". But, I c
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The guys I build for prefer the #6 tip even though the guides are #4. They get beat around, banged up, poked at stuck lures under the water and everything else. Also, some of these guy use a snap swivel with their crankbaits for quick changing. That swivel will hammer a micro ring, so will a bullet weight, a jig eye and a split ring. My experience is that the tip ring is usually the first on
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Looking for tips on aligning the tip top when using the fast setting tip glue. Looks like when I get it on, it quickly sets before I can get it perfectly aligned. Reluctant to use the epoxies as they make it really hard to get off if you ever need to. Any tricks guys? Also, is there anything wrong with reheating that tip a little and resetting it?
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