Try burnt (very dark) Burl. Use a thin clear glue and the glue lines virtually disappear. Looks like worn leather to me.
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Dennis, Now, I'm not saying this is what the problem is but it's something to consider. I had a rod that had always cast just perfect for me. Ole "Dead Eye". One day, it started casting to the left of my target. I couldn't figure it out. My buddy asked me why my tip looked funny. I checked it, and it had come loose enough to rotate on the blank. It was turned about 45 degrees of
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Marc, I think you'll find it easiest on that VSS reel seat to glue the grip to the seat first. With the cut out and the grip having to fit that contour, it would be difficult to get a smooth match up especially if your bore or ream is not spot-on concentric. Fit em together by hand when you get it and you'll see what I mean. There's no room whatsoever to be off by even a smidgeon. I worked m
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Mike, If you can talk him out of the exposed blank, you can go at it from the butt end without removing the guides. It's a job but you'll have to get off the rear grip and the seat without marring the blank. You can turn the butt grip down or scrape it off and if the reel seat is loose enough, it may slide right off the bottom end. If not, cut it off with a dremel tool using lenghtwise cuts.
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Jay, "Medium/light" is in reference to power while "moderate/moderate fast" is a reference to action. Two different animals altogether. It's rated at medium/light because it handles 1/16 to 1/2 oz. lures. You say it appears to have a "good bit" of bend to it so it could probably well be a moderate or moderate fast action. That being said, all these terms are rel
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Kyle, If you have a way to turn the blank, you don't have to remove all the cork. Just turn/sand it down to within about 1/8" (more okay but no less) of the blank. DON'T sand into the blank. You're basically using the bad cork as an arbor. You can glue your new grip right over the top of it provided the butt of the blank is not too big to begin with. As far as reaming, try the flex c
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Rich, Where did you find a metallic orange?
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Looking for thread that matches Auburn Tiger Orange and especially the Blue, going on a matte black blank. Anybody ever done this? I think a regular Gudebrod orange with CP will match the orange but I'm not sure about that color blue. Seems a lot darker than Gudebrod or Fishawk blues.
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thanks a ton, Jim for the measurements.
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I believe he's saying that 40 mm is the diameter of the spool on the 1000. At least I'm looking at a 2000 now and it too measures 40 mm.
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No, I can't find that reel in any store near me. I've searched the net and they just don't give you the info for those dimensions. As I said, I usually use the NGC primer article in the library to set up a spinning rod. Has worked great so far, I test cast and adjust from there if I need to. The point where the rod intersects the edge of the table depends, not just on the spool diameter, bu
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duplicate
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A lady wants me to build a 7' ultralight spinning rod (1/32 to 3/16 oz and 4 -6lb line, white perch and bream spinners and swimming jigs in crystal clear open water) for her husband for Christmas. I've chosen a Batson XP840. She said he uses a Shimano Spirex 1000 reel and braid. I don't have one of these reels and I can't borrow his because it's suppose to be a surprise. I don't know anyone w
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It's obvious that David, as many, does not know how to interpret search engine results. He has copied and pasted the results in his post. The ellipses signify blips from the page/site being referred to and he has taken it as one complete sentence. Remember, search engines are being optimized to figure you out so they can market to you. So, results may show exactly what you asked for as well a
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Thanks guys.
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I prefer a fast action rod, one that initially flexes in the upper 1/3 of the blank. However, I want one with a "soft(?)" tip so as not to rip the lips off o'dem sacolait or jerk a crankbait out of a bass' mouth. Most crankbait rods I see are moderate action, initially flexing in the upper 1/2 of the blank. Not what I want. So, what characteristics of a blank will tell me that it do
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I'm going to build a spin/fly combo similar to those seen in RodMaker magazine. Though the build will answer most of my questions, I was interested in others opines before I start so as to have a comparable basis for my findings. The article I saw mentioned the use of a 3 or 4 piece rod. Is there a functional advantage here over a 2 piece? Also, what would be the longest that I could make it
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Anit-reverse bearing will be located on top of the drag stack and underneath the star drag. It is not like the other bearings in the reel although it is often given credit as an additional bearing (i.e, 7 bearing system, 8 bearing, etc.) The shaft for the handle goes through it and it is usually pressed into the side plate to become an integral part of the side plate. Don't oil it . It should
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Thanks Chuck. That's just the color I'm looking for.
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Has anyone got a pic posted that shows Rainshadow's "Olympic Green" special order blank? Just wanted to get an idea of what shade green it actually is.
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Michael, I've only built a couple of hundred rods, but I've never had that happen during my spining days, years ago when we thought it was crucial, or during a stress distribution test, or during hookups with a fish. But, I've never bought an MHX blank either. Let us know how this turns out.
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I agree with Tom. I tried both setups, microwave and Ralph O's configuration of the NGC, on an old Lamiglas sp843 blank. Throwing a 3/8 oz wt, I noticed no difference in distance. I haven't fished the rod yet but what I'm interested in knowing about is line twist. Does that fast of a choke exacerbate the problem of line twist during a day of hard fishing? Just seems to me like it would but
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Jason, Last I heard, from a Trondak rep, its release has been put "on hold indefinitely". I don't know why and have no idea why it happened. To me it sounds like they don't know if it will ever be released. I was really looking forward to tryin it too. Been stretchin and conservin my LS and TM to the last drop so I wouldn't have to buy another bottle of em.
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Lorenzo, I just finished a Castaway XP3 813 for a guy that asked for a rod to throw Senkos. Used all micros, #4, split grip, ACS reel seat, no foregrip, and he loves it more than his $200 Cumaras. Talk to the guys at Swampland and they'll fix ya up right.
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Every used SS304 tip that has come through my shop has had grooves in them and some guys say they've haven't even used braid. I often see the first guide down from the tip with grooves in it also. To me, the grooves are a bad thing. I feel like it has a tendency to abraid/fray the line. Take any SS304 guide and wrap it on a wood dowel. Turn the dowel upside down and mount it horizontally and
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Looking for a tip on cleaning the glue out of the little exposing window on an ACS reel seat, or any exposed blank reel seat. I've seen the suggested methods of pouring epoxy adhesive in the end, letting it set and then pouring it in the opposite end but this forces me to put the butt grip on last and from the bottom ( I'd rather ream it close to the blank taper and slide it down in place). I'v
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Looking for suggestion on snapper blank. Client using Penn saltwater spinning reel, fishing in 100 ft of water but may only fish at a depth of about 45 ft. 50 lb test line, usually live bait on a circle hook and a 5 oz. sinker. Needs to cast a short distance on occasion but will mostly be just dropping the bait. Asked for something at least 7 foot to get leverage, but wants something sensiti
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Years ago I was going to buy some U40 cork seal from Clemens Custom Tackle. Rose, bless her heart, was the one that took my orders and she told me that she didn't like it as it usually ended up coming off like a peeling sunburn. She never lead me astray before so I didn't fool with. Instead, I bought some teak oil from Lowe's and put it on in three coats giving each coat about 5 minutes to soa
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I visited a friend the other day for whom I built a rod in 2007. I won't get into what brand of rod, length, or any of that. He told me it was his favorite and he had caught hundreds of fish on it, mostly bass. I picked up the rod, as I usually do, to see how I've changed in the years and I noticed that it seemed to have a really slow action. I remember the rod well and can tell you that I do
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Well, after a full day of testing, printing, cutting, and wasting quite a bit of paper, I think I have it. Increasing the volume of ink proved to be smudgy on the graphics, but the text looked okay. So I eliminated that lane and tried something else. Here's what worked for me. I changed the black CMYK settings from 0,0,0,100 to a setting of 37,30,30,100. This gave me a blacker black on the s
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