Posted 8 pics under miscellaneous to show the steps I went through. Used utility knife to cut the skin and, to my surprise a foam core underneath like Tom mentioned and it sanded down like a breeze. Am considering a cork split grip to go back with but I'm concerned on the blank section in between the grips. It appears that whatever agent was used to coat the blank and foam before applying the
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Semi pro bought me a St. Croix Legend Extreme LXC711HMF today and asked me to change out the handle. Normally not an issue, this rod has a composite handle approximately 11" long that is shaped all the way down like a split grip. It has an hour glass shape so to speak. I cannot see the blank in this run but I can tell that this taper, in the center, takes down to nearly the exact size of
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Roger, Just to confirm, I measure my assembled 2 section 8' bed in different places and get anywhere from 2.046 to 2.058. Someone gave me a Pac Bay power wrapper this week that is made in 3 sections and I measured one of those sections, unassembled, it came out to 2.062 on one end, and 2.056 on the other. I too was using calipers.
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No repairs, building rods for throwing a 2-3 oz treble hook to snag alligators. 80 lb mono and don't want to loose an insert. I believe now that they must be PAC-Bays. Thanks for the help guys.
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If I remember correctly, the CULG had a Hardloy insert. The ones I'm looking for won't have an insert.
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I'm looking for the Fuji guides that are used on the Ugly Stik Tiger series. These are SS and have no inserts but are obviously different from the SS304's by Berkeley or the Pac Bay Minimas. They are double foot guides. Anyone know where I can find them? Don't see um on Fuji site. Could it be they are discontinued or may be made special for Shakespeare?
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Rodmaker had an article a while back (maybe a few years) that showed a tool used for "swiping" on Permagloss. Seems like it involved some pvc and foam. Anybody remember the volume and issue?
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I've got PacBay's Metallic Orange and some old Gudebrod copper. I see no difference in the two.
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They can be cut, but if you cut the casting grip, you'll be cutting off the take down that fits inside the reel seat. The spinning grips are flush on that end so cutting won't make a difference. I've cut it with a utility knife. Be careful though, you'll want to wrap a piece of tape around it. Follow the tape, just cut through the skin on the first go to keep it clean. On the second round, b
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Has anyone tried one of these blanks? Particularly the PRO 873 as listed on their site. They say they are new for 2013. The avg wt shows 1.9 oz and I find this very low for a 7'3" blank. Diameters from tip to butt look to be smaller than normal and I was wondering how it might fit the task. Weight is a real issue on this build and I want to start as low as I can. Customer wants to flip
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X3 on calling the guys at Swampland. They've built them for the pros and can tell you just how they do it and how they like them. Just finished building a bunch of those rods for guys in my area requesting the same blank. Looks like they'll be wanting more. And they throw anything that moves with them: cranks, jerks, spinnerbaits, chatterbaits, etc. Most versatile blank I've worked with in
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Adam, If your talking about a slight white haze in the finish, I've had the same problems. I recently finished 8 rods that were exactly the same. The temp and humidity varied each time. My drying box only holds one rod so I only did one at a time. I usually take at least 3 coats of TM regular to get a rod done. Sometimes 4. I applied the warmed finish (I also heat the little bearing you us
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Thanks John. I've found the stuff for about 37 cents a foot in 3/4" and almost 50 cents a foot in 1 1/4". Found a supplier that also supplys alot of the professional makers of rod covers. Thanks also for the tips on flaring and cutting, was wondering how that was done. I've also found they use the 3/4 on micro guide rods and the 1 1/4 on normal casting rods. I'd have to go with the
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Thinking of making my own rod covers like the Stik Jackets, Rod Gloves, Rod Cover Ups, Rod Sox, etc. Does anyone know if the material is nylon, polyethylene, plastic or what? Or, does it even matter? Can it be cut with a knife, scissors? What about that flare at the bottom, is it a matter of heating and stretching or just stretching? What would be a good source for the tubular webbing materi
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X2 on what Joe says.
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Joe, I went through the same in Katrina. I did as Tom says and talked to 3 other builders. Priced them out as custom rods. But I didn't go with the average I went with the top end, but that's just me. Average may be the safest way to go but, at the time, I didn't harbor too much love for the insurance companies. We worked it out. Hang in there.
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Marc, I've purchased some of the SS304s from Netcraft to repair many Berkeley Lightning Rods that have been brought to my shop because the tip and/or the first guide back had grooves in them and caused the line to fray. I've even replaced some of the ones I replaced for the same reason. It's happened with braid and without. I bought the SS304s because they looked exactly like the OEM guides o
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Neither. Yellowing or ambering of the epoxy is > normal. It happens in the bottle and on the rod. > Not much you can do about it. > > ................ So, why hasn't his first rod yellowed?
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Is it possible to build the grip on the blank by glueing on rings and then turning them down? Just thinking but you'd have to use some tape arbors to take out the taper between the butt and the seat, you could leave the very last one off so you'd have something to grab and then turn down a rubber ring or something after you've done the grip. It would be a challenge done this way, you'd have to
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Mark, Once you've got the arbor glued in, you can ream it down to almost nothing, as matter of fact, beyond nothing. Remember there's a tiny layer of epoxy between the od of the arbor and the id of the reel seat. With the porosity of the arbor, the epoxy will penetrate somewhat. At some point, as you ream more and more, the foam will become almost non existent and you'll be reaming epoxy. Th
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Buy a Flex Coat foam arbor, the same size as the reel seat, cut it lengthwise to fit in the end of the reel seat that is too big. Don't go so deep into the reel seat that you get into the exposed area. I usually cut it about the same length as the run of nut threads on the barrel of the seat. Glue the arbor it into the reel seat first. Let it dry completely. Now, just ream the short section o
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Col Chaseling Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- >..... > I'm just looking to have a nice couple of days > then have a look around the area and get to the > Rodmaker office for a sticky beak. Okay, I'll bite. What's a "sticky beak" ?
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Nope, to my knowledge Falcon does not sell blanks. And, they do not let out who they get em from.
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I'm trying to match a Falcon LowRider XG rod (166-M) for a client. It's 6'6", rated for 1/4-1/2oz lure and 8-17lb line, labeled as a medium action and feels medium "to me". I did some measurements and came up with an AA of 69 (which would be a fast action, but we won't go there) and an ERN of 15.72. I compared it to a St Croix 3C66mm on a jig made by Backlash and the bend of bot
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I'm looking for a short 5'6" blank that can be used for throwing buzzbaits (1/4 to 1/2 oz) on braided line and in tight quarters. Need a moderate or moderate fast action in graphite (carbon fiber), limber but not too limber. Was looking at NFC but all of their blanks of this length are Fast. Would it be possible to take one of their 6' blanks and cut a full 6" off of it? Would that
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Makes sense Jim. If a "plug blank" is extra fast to start with it would become fast by trimming. I didn't know their plug blanks were xf. I thought I had something wrong, thanks for clearin me up.
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See, this is the kind of stuff that messes with my head. I've copied and pasted this from the NFC site. It has me confused again: "If you want a 7'9" fast tip blank and you don't see it in the catalog, try an 8 foot plug rod, cut three inches off the bottom and order a custom decal." Now, my belief, or rather, my understanding, has always been that
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Sometimes I'll use preformed cork grips and modify them by turning them on my Pac Bay wrapper, using whatever sandpaper I can find at the home improvement warehouse. I've noticed that I often get dark splotches on the cork. By dark, I mean somewhere between black and gray, almost a charcoal color. The splotches are mostly round, in clusters, and only in certain places on the grip. Is this fro
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Can the upper limit of a lure range on a rod be increased? For instance, if a rod has a lure range of 1/16 oz. to 5/16 oz., is there something I can do to increase the 5/16 to, say 3/8 or 1/2 without affecting the low end of 1/16 or the action? What about an aluminum oversleeve, well secured, and hidden under the rear grip and seat? Would that beef it up just a tad or too much or not at all?
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David, I think 10 -12 micros is a few too many for a 6'8", 8 to 10 should do it. Place your first guide 4 inches back from the tip and don't move it unless the static deflection test demands it. Place your stripper 21 inches from the face of the reel and space the rest of them at 5" apart to start with. You'll move these running guides and maybe even delete some as you progress thr
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