Fuji single foot fly rod type. WITH a Forhan locking wrap. There are probably some other good brands out there as well but I have not had to try any others. These work just fine and do not let the "fly rod" label discourage you. They are plenty strong and very low frame.
Forum: rodboard

The KB belly guide which was the beefiest of the three failed first. So simply adding a wider foot and beefier frame does not always make one guide stronger than another in actual use. The KT guide failed second and I think it has to do with the higher frame height than you have on any of the single foot low frame fly rod type single foots. I am convinced that the lower the frame and the closer t
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Chevrons are easy and quick to do. The average fisherman cannot really tell the difference in skill or time between a very elaborate closed wrap and an open chevron. From a price point basis the chevron is hard to beat and the customer is just as happy.
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Unless you want to do him a favor for past and maybe future business I would have to charge at least $30 per name change. Sounds like a lot but considering the work involved I don't think it is.
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It was in Rodmaker magazine a few issues back.
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No problem to ask me here on this message board. Might be helpful to someone else as well.
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Kerry you plainly said, twice, that it did not matter where you placed your hand. The fact is that it does. Go back and read your own posts. I am going to let this one go and not respond again.
Forum: rodboard

To refresh your memory, you wrote this--- "You can spin it any way you want, no pun intended. but you add length 3 1/2" or 6" to the rod and that fighting butt is implanted on your chest or Gut for the pivot point, it changes the moment arm regardless where your hand is placed. Just talking about the math involved (STATICS) and not fishing techniques." You had also stated e
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Kerry Hansen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Tom Kirkman Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Kerry, > > > > Your hand is the point of effort. Move that and > it > > will definitely make a difference. Mike is > > correct. > > > > ............ > > Tom, I
Forum: rodboard

Kerry Hansen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Mike Ballard Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Re: Adding Legth to a 9" 11 wt. Musky Rod new > > Posted by: Kerry Hansen (---.wavecable.com) > > Date: April 15, 2023 10:09PM > > > > You can spin it any way you want, no pun >
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Re: Adding Legth to a 9" 11 wt. Musky Rod new Posted by: Kerry Hansen (---.wavecable.com) Date: April 15, 2023 10:09PM You can spin it any way you want, no pun intended. but you add length 3 1/2" or 6" to the rod and that fighting butt is implanted on your chest or Gut for the pivot point, it changes the moment arm regardless where your hand is placed. Just talking about the m
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I add fighting butts to fly rods most often to actually make it easier for the fisherman to lift and pull against the fish. I won't get the terms right but when fighting a fish the fighting butt means your fish fighting hand will be closer to the fish to that portion of the lever will then be shorter. I cannot see how a fighting butt is going to given any advantage to the fish.
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Daryl Ferguson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I only have experience with ProKote and Flex Coat > Original High Build. If someone told me I had to > make a choice between the two and could never use > the other again, I'd probably stick with Flex > Coat. However, I do wish it had just a few minutes > longer pot life. I love the working ti
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I sort of figured that might be it. Companies that operate at that level do not waste money. If the catalogs were not producing strong results they would not spend the money to produce and mail them.I order most of my supplies on the websites but usually it is because I saw something in a catalog while I was browsing through it. I almost never just browse a website unless I am looking for somethi
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > By the way, what do the three most successful rod > building component supply dealers have in common? > > .......... I have two guesses--- they're the oldest component dealers still operating or they all still print hard copy catalogs and mail them out. I am thinking the latter one is the reason
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El Bolinger Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Chris Catignani Wrote: > > > Anyone new to rodbuilding is more than likely > > gonna watch a video. > > ***BINGO*** Videos are not new. And you cannot ask the guy in the video any questions as he goes along. They have a place but they did not replace message boards like this one and
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Chris Catignani Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > Mike...I am one of those long time board members > too... > Anyone new to rodbuilding is more than likely > gonna watch a video. > Currently there's a thread on Guide Choice for > inshore saltwater rod... > Do you think an older thread would answer that > question best?
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Chris Catignani Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > El...I'm with you...and agree pretty much with > your assessment. > I rarely ever use the search function for > information...old posts are old news. > I know there are some jewels back there...but I > personally prefer to just re-hash a subject and > get the current view/opinion. Th
Forum: rodboard

Joel Wick Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > But you're still here. Why? > > Can't speak for El, but I'm still here hoping for > the final, definitive post on the relationship > between rod spine and guide placement. That final definitive post has been made hundreds of times over the past twenty years here. You can either go with the f
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El Bolinger Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I don't bother using the app unless I need to post > a pic, it's unstable and crashes if I type more > than 2-3 sentences. Also no dark node and you're > right about the organization- clunky. > > I'm not sure of the app coding and how it all > works with the obsolete coding on the forum but
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Tom built a remarkable forum in the face of all those who said his rules and procedures would cause a forum to fail. But it got to be the most popular ten times over and twenty+ years later it outlasted them all, never skipped a moment and beat the stuffing out of the Facebook groups and I guess remained so popular that somebody was willing to pay big bucks for it. Still seems to be doing okay al
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IP weight is not really a factor because the blank weight doesn't matter. They will both cast equally well with the same lure weight and the sweet spot will be 1/2 ounce. Look at the butt diameters on each blank. The larger of the two will be more powerful. Whether you like to fight the fish more off the upper part of the rod or have it flex more deep is up to you. Light power surf and light
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CCS data will not give you lure weight casting range. That comes down to mostly tip power so unless you want to do the Big Picture measurement you can't get it. Trying to match CCS measurements to the mfg's ratings is a waste of time as they are not based on the same thing. Mfg ratings are category specific. Hopefully you do not think a light power surf rod is supposed to have the same power as a
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You are confusing a lot of things here. A Spin Jig Medium Heavy is lighter than a Mag Bass Medium which should be expected as the blanks do not feature the same taper. They are not measured the same way. You cannot compare across the board power between categories. And power has not much to do with casting weight range. WHERE is the power in the rod blank? I have used HotShot blanks that would ma
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No formula possible. A 7-1/2 foot rod for casting big swimbaits will need a different rear handle length than a 7-1/2 foot rod for casting crankbaits. The RM article made more sense than anything I have ever read on handle length. And surf rods are a totally different thing.
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Ease up on your tension just a little bit. Relax your hand and fingers. You might find it helps if you lie the side of your hand on the rod blank so it will not spin backwards if you let go of the rod with your fingers. If you have a wrapping machine and it is in the chuck, the back pressure of the motor will do that for you. You have to relax.
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The article in Rodmaker broke a lot of new ground but even before it came out I never expressed handle length in inches. If somebody would ask how long something like an 8 foot popping rod handle should be I would tell them that I like it to reach back to within an inch of the elbow. Use whatever length reaches that point on you. That is the important thing--- not how long it is but where it make
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It is easy to come late to the party and not have knowledge of everything that happened before you got there. I remember when the O'Quinn spiral article came out in maybe 2002 or 2003? We adopted it for surf rods and it worked and still works very well. I think the Simple Spiral came out maybe in 2008 or 2009? I know Ralph had switched to it by the show that year.
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E-mail to Lami and see if they have a guide spacing layout for it. They used to have them.
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That is a very direct and sensible way to measure things. I am not sure that is comparable to what happens in the water when a fish takes a bait or lure but if we are talking just about direct contact from rod tip to the hand then this is a sensible way to do it. We keep coming back to what exactly is it that we need to measure?
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