Try using the spatula method at least once for applying the epoxy. I've used both on the same rod, spatula first then brush touch up with leftover epoxy after doing the decals.
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On most glue residue I have had success with a Staedtler Mars plastic eraser, the rectangular type, it balls up the glue and will not harm the rod with harsh chemicals and leaves no residue. Mine has a nice worn groove that conforms to the roundness of the blank.
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While you're at the Mudhole site take a look at the REC line of seats. They are an American Company out of Connecticut.
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Roger Wilson mentioned times that he felt some house builders spent on rods but you should also figure in the time it took to determine all the correct components, ordering, unpacking, time spent with the customer on determining the specs, i.e., all the non-building time. It is time you will spend so one hour to "build" a rod in my opinion is short changing your effort. Example, I hav
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Sorry for the triple post, no patience with the OK button, duh is me.
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I live on a dead end street, build mostly freshwater rods and have spray painted lines on the macadam curbstone every twenty feet up to 120 feet. Using a 1/4 oz test lure I then test cast and adjust, static test done by looping the lure in my mailbox flag and bending. Try to keep it as simple as possible and do not worry, it will come out fine.
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I live on a dead end street, build mostly freshwater rods and have spray painted lines on the macadam curbstone every twenty feet up to 120 feet. Using a 1/4 oz test lure I then test cast and adjust, static test done by looping the lure in my mailbox flag and bending. Try to keep it as simple as possible and do not worry, it will come out fine.
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Use in a well ventilated area, has a strong but not necessarily unpleasant odor. Other family members might object.
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Made my own like the other troops, painted the reel foot bright red and put a strip of gold metallic tape down the middle of the stem, has been working for me but I will be requesting the Mud Hole model with my next order.
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Try the Robinson brand of metallic, it is a round thread as opposed to somewhat flatter threads like the old Gudebrod.
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Looking for a rod builder who lived in Michigan by the name of Dan Corbett. We have a mutual friend in Connecticut who Dan had built a rod for several years ago and the rod is still going strong. My fishing buddy lost track of Dan and wants to send him a note about a memorable smallmouth bass he caught this season with the rod Dan built for him. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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I also wind a piece of masking tape at the end of each old wrap so that if I slip, and you will, I don't mar the finish on the rod.
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Some states require on line/catalog sales tax to be collected if the dealer has a presence in the state of the buyer. Prior to Cabelas having a store in CT, I paid no sales tax on catalog orders, now that they do, I get charged with CT sales tax. With Mudhole holding pay for presentations in various states, that may constitute a presence and thus the sales tax for residence of that state.......
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!. Yes, but the hanger generally is on the opposite side of where the line comes off the spool. 2. I don't, you could but most of the time the hook is not touching the blank 3. Same as #1
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Or for a couple of bucks more, Mudhole, at least U will know what U are getting.....plus advice if U need it.
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Almost finished my second personal build with the MW, the stripper may look funny, but the only thing I notice when fishing is the smoother and longer casts.
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Almost finished my second personal build with the MW, the stripper may look funny, but the only thing I notice when fishing is the smoother and longer casts.
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Arbor to reel seat and then if possible entire handle assembly at one time so as to line up all parts at once. Held in place with handle assembly press.
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I always find the CP threads interesting. I've been a hobby builder since about 1995 and have over 300 rods under my belt and use CP 95% of the time and have never had a problem with blotching. This is not a brag, just an observation. I go with two coats, waiting for each to dry thoroughly, insuring I get some in the tunnels. For the past couple of years I have switched to Cason's clear CP so
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Try Bingham, but I don't know if Karen ships overseas.
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If you had to buy a new set you would end up with spares for the smaller guides when you sooner or later break them. There is also nothing wrong with using the rest of the set on a different build.
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If you had to buy a new set you would end up with spares for the smaller guides when you sooner or later break them. There is also nothing wrong with using the rest of the set on a different build.
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I have 5 clamp on desk lamps plus three-3 bulb track light mounted high on the walls. Recently switched all to leds, now have more light than before with traditional spots. Downside, maybe, desk lamps throw off no heat, thus can't help speed up epoxy wrap curing time.
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I don't sand between coats of Tru-Oil but just hit it with 0000 steel wool. Maybe my tactile senses have declined with age, but I don't really notice the increase in hardness due to the coats of Tru-Oil, as in normal fishing circumstances , very little of my hand comes in contact with the cork and even then, it's usually the soft pad area of the palm of my hand..
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4-5 coats of Brichwood-Casey Tru-oil, it is a gunstock and furniture top coat finish. I use it on all my personal rods and for many customers, touch up once every 4-5 years.
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Sounds like your on your way to a guide train that you will refine by test casting. Only suggestion would be to get your first guide, the stripper guide, closer to the 1/2 diameter rule, look more toward a size 20 or 25, get both and test cast both, unless your going with the super titanium style, guides aren't that expensive.
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Bob, my comment wasn't about starting with an expensive blank but to use the sponsors on the left, as they will get the best blank for the money you want to spend, whether $30 or $130. I choose an AVID probably because I didn't know better at the time. I had been working at a chain retailer at the time were we were able to get St. Croix products at 1/2 of retail and I bought St. Croix AVID rods,
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I know this is opinion but I cannot understand why drywall tape is not recognized as the superior method on heavy duty rods over masking tape. Weight is not and issue and with dry wall you have complete adhesion between the blank and the real seat whereas with masking tape the adhesion is only at the points where the masking tape touches the blank. Masking tape is nothing more than paper with a
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Buy from the sponsors on the left, they will even talk to you about your best choice at the lowest price, we know them to be reliable and honest. Do you know anything about the seller on the @#$%& site? Nothing is cheap if you have to pay for it, the sponsors on the left will make sure you get your money's worth regardless of how much you spend. Can't understand why some folks just don't get
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Avery Label maker program has a business card template with many options, print your own with multiple designs, import images, etc.
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