For rod repairs I use a liquid cleaner/wax called Royal Blue as early as 24 hours after using the thread epoxy. New rods do not need to be cleaned so a good auto wax like Colonite works well.
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After tightening down the chuck I put a metal spring clamp onto the two tighting wheels, keeps the jaws from slipping open.
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IMHO if the "kids" are not able to appreciate/use a custom rod I would advise the gentleman to buy off the rack rods. If there is really nothing special that meets specific fishing needs, save him some money. I have done this with several potential customers.
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IMHO, reaming to fit produces a nicer, cleaner finished seat assembly. Still plenty of surface for adhesion.
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I keep mine in the original package, usually a labeled plastic bag, put a punch hole in the top and peg them to a 2X4 peg board on the wall right by my work bench. Just about all my small components are stored that way, ex., winding checks, tip tops. Used to work at Dicks Sporting Goods so peg boards are a natural for me.
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Rod blanks don't care if they are made into spinning or baitcasting rods. Find a blank that matches the specs of your old rod the closest and go with that.
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If it is only lettering, you can try to use dry transfer lettering to make your own.
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The tip top plastic tool that Mudhole sells is perfect, it allows you to measure both the outside diameter of the blank/rod or the inside diameter of the tip top, great for repairs.
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Check the on line dealers of model car parts, they usually have tons of decals in small sizes. Ex.
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Make your own, get the 1 1/4 outside and ream out 1/4 inch deep 1 inch hole with Dremel tool attachments. Make a lot of my own butt caps that way. Get those with the hole already drilled through use as starting point then plug the open end when you glue on to end of the rod.
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My wrapper is mounted on the front of a large, old, wooden Army desk with a combination of 5 swing arm and goose neck lamps with LED bulbs overhanging the wrapper. Additionally, total of 8 wall mounted LED spot lights on three sides of the room. I used to use Incandescent bulbs in the desk lamps and use them as heat for drying. LEDs are cool so now thread epoxy drying takes longer.
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Here in the northeast (CT) I cannot ever remember a shipping time issue from Mudhole in the last 10+ years.
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I use a lite coat of black finger nail polish on black guides.
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Placed a very small first order with them last week, had the item in two days. not free shipping but a nice couple of extra "gifts". It will not be my last order for sure.
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Roger, LOL, senility is setting in, I meant the exact opposite, you are correct, that's what I get for not proof reading my own musings.
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I've also seen regular golf club grips wear from golfing use but don't believe the type of torque generated from a golf club swing will be anywhere near that of casting a fishing rod or even fighting a fish. I've built one rod so far with the grips this spring and have not heard back from the customer. I have a couple of more sets that I plan on using on future builds.
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A quick Internet search shows BNLG guides as being Fuji, didn't see any reference to them as PacBay.
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Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil should be a good substitute, it's used as a gun stock finish and I've read it is used on bar tops. All my personal cork reel seats get 5-6 coats and my 8 year old rods still look new, never had any pits fills fall out and dirt seems to repel along with hand oil.
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Use a small set of forceps tipped with latex tubing to hold and place micro guides on the rod, you can slide them under rings of latex tubing that I use for holding guides for wrapping.
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The instructions are on www.roddancer.com.
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He has also negated any effect the mythical spine might play but it was interesting to see how someone else achieves his rod building goals. It also demonstrates nicely how the rod does not twist under a heavy load.
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My choice is Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil. While it does darken the cork, it seals in all filled pits. I have rods that are 8 years old that show no cork wear and dirt and grime do not seem to adhere to the finish. Tried U-40 originally but found the Tru-Oil to be much more durable.
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Cason CP is also a hot CP, if you coat with CP use a water based, the CP is supposed to help prevent hot thread coatings from dissolving the inks.
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I pick up "throwaway" rods from my customers all the time. If they are 1/2 way decent, I replace broken guides, repair handle assemblies, clean and wax and donate to the Connecticut Aquatic Resources Education program that teaches folks, young and old how to fish. They then give them out as free raffle prizes after their teaching sessions. I donated one of mine own personal, little us
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Sorry, double post.
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I have a digital Taylor kitchen scale that has tare, lb/oz and grams (weigh guides).
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Blow along the top through a straw as the rod is spinning to get rid of the small bubbles, the heat from your breath is enough to do the job.
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Please read up on acetone before using, it is not exactly the safest solvent.
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Don't overlook the Air Wave guides from American Tackle, light weight plus the Doug Hannon novel stripper guide. Competitively priced with the Minima guides. I have used both and will continues to do so but prefer the Air Wave due to the Hannon stripper guide.
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I've been using Robinson-Anton Metallic J thread for years, nice round shape and comes in 24 colors. No CP needed. Thinner than A.
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