It must have been fun, not sure my skill level could handle both wraps down hill or either I too lazy to try. Thanks for letting us know it can be done.
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Up hill also allows you to finish the wrap on single foot guides with blocking and locking wraps.
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I'm really liking the Hitena thread for its stretch characteristics, lack of "fuzzies", color consistency and ease of packing. IMHO, better than the old gold standard of Gudebrod.
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Tom had a short article in the magazine that showed how to make a simple leveling device out of a piece of aluminum stock. Very easy to make and to use. Check the library for the article.
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Cardboard box with a couple of V cuts on the end, heavy book, shot glass, box on your lap sitting at the kitchen table. Used ball point pen minus the refill as a packing tool. Take the KISS approach at first.
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I use Stren green 10lb braid, color makes it easier to find when dropped. Always have a few loops made up "just in case"!
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I use a standard for me of 1/8th of an inch for all wraps.
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Refurbishing bamboo rods has been one of the most time consuming rod repairs I have ever done, but I love it! Extremely satisfying when the repairs are done, looks like a brand new rod but better. One thing, make sure to measure where the original intermediate wraps were so the spacing will look appropriate. Have fun.
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Like Herb, just the light cork. Favorite product is Birchwood- Casey Tru Oil.
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Apply your epoxy on the labels with a smooth brush length wise, easier to prevent wavy finish.
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A shot glass almost makes a good thread epoxy mixing bowl, clean with DNA. I use a small spoon shaped spatula as a mixing tool.
Forum: rodboard

A shot glass almost makes a good thread epoxy mixing bowl, clean with DNA. I use a small spoon shaped spatula as a mixing tool.
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Wrap over the area with a complimentary dark thread and start over.
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Just received my first samples of Hitena metallic rod guide wrapping thread. The most brilliant metallic thread I have ever seen and the thread is very fine. I can see some of our expert weavers doing some fantastic art work with this thread. Thanks again, Hitena.
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I find that they may require precise and extra burnishing especially on the edges to insure that the decal adhesive affixes firmly. I just did a fish flag decal and it worked perfectly. I have used several of their decals and any minor problem I had I would attribute to operator error.
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Ben, I use a humidifier in the winter in the lower level of my raised ranch where my rod room is so I would expect the same no static results. Thanks.
Forum: rodboard

Ben, I use a humidifier in the winter in the lower level of my raised ranch where my rod room is so I would expect the same no static results. Thanks.
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I cut the foot off an old reel, painted bright red, put a strip of bright gold mylar tape down the middle of the leg then mount the device in the reel seat of the rod. I can then site each guide so the mylar strip bisects each guide ring in the center. It's the eyeball method with help. The simple plastic device from Mudhole is too dark to see and the little silver dot cannot be seen when try
Forum: rodboard

Speaking of Hitena thread, I am in the middle of a full rod wrap and I noticed that the Hitena thread has no inherent static electricity build up that in turn doesn't attract any airborne dust. another plus for the thread.
Forum: rodboard

Justin, I probably built my first 15 rods the way Roger explained until I really felt serious about rod building. You can also use a cut down plastic knitting needle as a burnishing and packing device. I ended up with a PacBay wrapper because hand wrapping did a job on my arthritic thumbs and have subsequently upgraded to the ALPS chuck. I do not do any custom cork handle work except for very
Forum: rodboard

Not sure about your guide train but a 2500 reel to me is oversized for a light rod. I use a Shimano 1000, on a 6'6" med light power for smallmouth fishing.
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China mark residue can easily be removed using a Staedtler Mars Plastic eraser. Cleans up without marring the finish and cleans up other type of mild residue also. Been using it for 25 years.
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Bruce, I did not reset the tension on my wrapping device, if this is appreciably stretchier thread, I did not notice it. Although I do occasionally have to change the setting when using metallic trim thread, when resetting it is anyone's guess how close I dial it back to the original spot, it's the old hand grenade and horseshoe answer.
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I received the small sample spools of free thread and have been able to use it on several guide repairs. My thread tensioner utilizes two round discs to apply pressure to the thread that occasionally results in thread "fuzzies". I found none at all with the black sample of the Hitena thread. Packing of the thread was much easier and appears to be much tighter than other thr
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Thanks Bob for the details, that's the one. It is so easy that I was even able to make one. Inexpensive, too.
Forum: rodboard

One other tip is to try to keep the rod level at all points. There was an article in the magazine a few years ago that showed how to build a simple tool from aluminum to measure if the rod was level. A tilted rod may cause football shapes at one end of the wraps.
Forum: rodboard

I have used Birchwood Casey Tru Oil with nice results. No foul odor, easy on, one coat does not take away from the natural finish of the bamboo. Additional coats may add a little shine to the overall finish.
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Super glue or a touch of Rod Bond but I always finish off the winding checks with decorative thread wrap in front of the check and thread epoxy, holds everything together and adds some zing to the rod.
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Denatured in my case but use carefully, use latex gloves to keep fingers from drying out.
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IMHO 8.50-10.00 per guide plus the cost of the new guide. I may be cheap.
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