That's what I was told by Jim Ising as well that it will compromise the corrosion resistant properties. The guides are pretty nicely shaped from the factory especially the KTs and KBs. I'll just wrap them without any underwrap or prep. We put a crazy amount of pressure on the snook we target for the first 10-20 seconds of the fight and wasn't sure if the small feet will damage the blank but that
Forum: rodboard

Does anyone have any suggestions on colors to use on a tiger wrap. The reel is a black VR50 and we generally use white braid. I'd like to stick to white/black/silver/etc.. but not sure if there would be enough contrast. What colors would give a good end result without going to really bright colors?
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My friend and I are building a 8'11 American tackle snook rod got the guides taped on and load tested it casts great (thank you to everyone that steered me toward using the KR concept on a longer rod like this) I was wondering would it add any use/protection to use an underwrap on the guides. I've heard others say no before but it seems like alot of pressure on a relatively small foot directly ag
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I'm not sure. Alot of their blanks are difficult to track down. My favorite 9' was a lamiglass they stopped making. I've got two of them left.
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I was able to track down a copy of your book. It was the last one left! Another question I had was do you all use a butt wrap alignment tool? I see Mudhole has one for sale.
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I was sent a link to a website with a ton of information from a member here yesterday. However in my previous searches I found very little and had not seen any videos that explained it clearly or that didn't skip steps. I've read alot on the site I was sent and I just need to get a few tools to mark my blanks but I now have an understanding on how the process works. Going to start with a Chev
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I just ordered the book by Dale Clemens. And will look into the other one next time I got to Mudhole.
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I'm a quick learner. I just need a place to start so that I can learn the fundamentals. I haven't found much of anything of use online. And would like to see the process illustrated and broken down into steps. I'll look into those books you mentioned. Thank you.
Forum: rodboard

What books would you all recommend to learn how to do custom crosswraps and decorative trim? There's very little info online on this topic. I'd like to pick up some books on it that I can learn how to properly set up and complete the process step by step. Thank you for any recommendations you all may have for me.
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Went with a FUJI DPSH seat and eva foam grips 14" rear 8" foregrip. But that reel seat is overkill but I like the way it feels and it fishes really comfortable. I don't like trigger reelseats personally. We throw big swimbaits and 2oz flairhawks with it for snook. And it does the job extremely well. I fish with the rod butt tucked under my arm which is why the grips are so long.
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Go for the Lexa For sure. I've got a Lexa 300 and a 400 that I've fished quite a bit. Tons of cranking power and silky smooth drag. I've got the 400 on a 15-40 MHX 8' built as a casting rod with double foot fuji guides. It puts the brakes on snook and big reds. If you fish alot of drag and heavy pressure maybe go with double foots. But alot of guys much more knowledgeable then me say that single
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Thank you for the info Norman. And you are right about me having to unlearn what I think a rod is supposed to look like. And yes I take very good care of my rods and reels. I have an air conditioned room that I store all my tackle in and don't abuse my set ups. I think I'll go the KR route. I'm happy with how a point blank rod came out with Jim's guidance recently. The software gave me a grea
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I'm new to rodbuilding. Not sure what exactly I need and I'm not set on any one configuration. The rod was built by a friend who's been building rods 40+ years. Was just going off how he built a rod for me years ago that's landed hundreds of big snook and I've been really happy with. Don't know why he used a double foot for the stripper. I just know the rod works. We had some serious issues t
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Thank you Michael that is what I've come to learn from speaking with Jim and reading everything I could find on anglersresource. Just wasn't sure what route to go on a longer rod. I may end up going with the KR concept. I was wondering is there a double foot stripper guide that fits in the KR concept system? We put a ton of pressure on these fish around bridge structure. 30lb braid FG to 50 F
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Thank you for that info. And the rod was built for me by a guy in his 70s who's set in his ways. And he picked the guides out. And it casts a mile and works great turning 35" plus snook. Only reason I mention that set up is it works well. But may consider trying a KR layout. And the Daiwa Certate is more like a 4k Daiwa spinner pretty similar to the VR150. So a KL-30 should work well. I
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I haven't tried the KR concept on a big rod yet. And found mixed reviews on using it for surf/snook style 9' rods doing research. Like to go with a more traditional larger ring set up like on my Lamiglass. Just not sure which guide model/style will fit that layout. I can't find the Fuji guides that were used for my Lami anywhere online. Hoping someone on the forum has had alot of experience build
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Blank is a BA3K9/12-25 going to be a spinning rod using either a VR150 or a 5000 Certate and 30lb braid. I've got a Lamjglass 9' I had someone build for me before I started building rods. It used a double foot stripper size 40 then single feet 30, 25, 20, 16, 12, 10, + tip 10. Guides are fuji with a black frame and an alconite insert. Couldn't find these guides anymore. Assuming they're discontin
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