I haven't had to remove many cork grips. But when I've had to, I've used a "knob cutter". Google bonsai knob cutter. A sharp and effective tool, you need to work slowly and avoid biting into the blank.
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I've found that unfinished stabilized inserts are still willing to absorb moisture. They also lose their luster over time. As a result, I apply hand rubbed coats of Pro Custom Oil, a Tung oil gun stock finish, to all of my wood inserts..
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Thread wraps are what hold the guides in place. Epoxy or varnish secure thread wraps in position and protect the thread from abrasion.
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Bill, there are numerous bamboo fly rod tapers. Each is designed to accomplish the feel, power, and flex desired by the maker. In the case of the "Cascade" blank designed by Dennis Stone, the taper is a relatively fast taper. In order to protect the fine tip section, five guides are mounted on the tip section. There are four guides on the mid section. Only the stripping guide on the b
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The Cascade is a fine tipped rod, I'm sure smaller than a six. I'm out of town for a few days so can't check my build notes. You'll likely get a quicker response if you check in with Dennis. Enjoy the build.
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Any attempts I've made to drill cork freehand haven't resulted in a clean hole. When I drill holes in un-bored rings I always use my lathe. The result is acceptable, but only because the hole will be reamed larger after the rings have been glued.
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I can't quite picture the fit you're trying to attain, but want to point out that cork doesn't stretch much. Be careful to not force the plug too much, the butt end if the grip might split.
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I'm in the Lehigh Valley, have been building since mid 80's.
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For my two bump sinking ants, I wind very fine black copper wire to create the bumps then apply finish epoxy to the wire. Requires turning until cured but creates a shiny black appearance. Once cured I use various materials to create legs on the fly.
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I agree with Matthew. My choice of finish is Pro Custom Oil (hand rubbed applications) because the oil component is tung oil. I can't answer your question about applying over your previously applied finishes. No experience there.
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Hello Gib, As Tom mentioned the resulting measurements of the CCS are simply objective measurements. That said, it’s pretty much up to each builder/fisherman to determine whether having those objective measurements can be used to their advantage. I’m mostly interested in Action Angle and ERN, with ERN being most important when I’m building fly rods. With my casting style (we all have our own whe
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Just to clarify my "Quick" reply above: Years ago after considerable efforts to reliably produce an acceptable finish with CA, I gave up. As my lathe is located in my garage, seasonal temperature and humidity changes in eastern PA presented challenges. Even my best outcomes fell short of my desire for a level, flexible and durable reel seat finish. Jeff
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Quick.
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When I worked with superglue I applied in a manner similar to what Roger did, other than when I tried the superglue/linseed oil method which used paper towel to apply.
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Have fun with the project Eric, I'm sure you'll enjoy fishing this rod. Jeff
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Hello Eric, I purchased it via Amazon. You should be aware that Epifanes, like some other varnishes, begins to kick off in the can once exposed to air. I've been able to extend the life of unused varnish by pouring into a glass bottle with a screw lid. I add marbles to the container to keep it filled to the rim. No air space on top of the varnish. If you like, we can take my thread varnish
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Hello Ken, For new and stripped bamboo sections I've been applying Pro Custom Oil gunstock finish, thinned to 75/25 with mineral spirits. Each application is applied with fingertips, then almost immediately wiped off with lint free paper towel. These micro applications (many) can be done every couple hours and build to a nice finish. I'm not set up to dip rod sections, so this is my only blan
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Visit classicflyrodforum.com for additional information about restoring bamboo rods. I agree with the steps recommended by Gary and Ken, though I prefer other materials. Jeff
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Working with thread epoxy isn't difficult. However, it has been mentioned numerous times on this forum that there is something of a learning curve with epoxy. So newer users of thread epoxy will find their epoxy appearance will improve as they work with the product over time. With this in mind I usually recommend obtaining scrap rod sections and practice guide wrapping and finishing until they'
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For cutting cork grips from fly rods I I use a bonsai tool called a knob cutter. Google "knob cutter" and "bonsai" to locate one. They're sharp, so caution when approaching the blank is necessary.
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Don't have the numbers in front of me for my Orvis model 99, but similar to your experience the CCS values I obtained were lower than expected. Jeff
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About ten years ago a friend showed me two 3M fly rod blanks, the ones with the butt over tip metal ferrules. The 8' foot blank was a System G6 (4wt). I don't have access to the System 6 (6wt) but my notes indicate it was 8'7" (maybe a typo on my part). Beautifully colored blanks and arrow straight. My friend wanted the 6wt built for streamer fishing, and for my effort I was given the 4wt
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This is what we're talking about Bill.... Just having fun.
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Matthew, I'm not asking you to reveal brand names here. In fact, please don't do that in this thread. But are you having this experience with one, or several, brands? If you're more comfortable with a personal reply please email me directly.
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Get a few small binder clips.
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Search all dates for a post "Thread Tension - No Wingnuts" for a simple solution.
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One option is pennstateindustries.com, but if you Google pen making supplies you'll find other options.
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I'm with Matt. In the past I've also used a drum shaped Dremmel bit, but that required a steady hand to slowly enlarge the opening. Doable, but error is possible. The pen barrel trimming bit (I sharpened the cutting edges) turned at high speed will give you a clean opening of around .750. Mine was under ten dollars with a pilot bit. For slightly larger reel seat hoods, my bit has a ring of co
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Since 1985 I've broken two rods that I've built. One clipped an overhanging branch and the very fine tip broke off 3/4" from the tiptop. The other broke two inches from the tip when I clipped a bridge in the middle of a roll cast. Obviously, both my fault.
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IMHO, too much epoxy + too much heat = sagging epoxy.
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