You're not the only one who gets fuzzies. I too, have suffered from fuzzies. To quote: "I discovered the real culprit to my fuzzies was the thread being bent around such a small radius while under tension" I get problems like that when using too much tension. IMHO, the ceramics, rollers, etc, are a workaround if you like to wrap tight
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Alex Weissman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What are the top and bottom sides of a rod? :)
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Aleks Maslov Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Roger, > > There is a warranty claim submission form on the > website - can you send that in, and send our folks > a picture? > > info@northforkcomposites.co&#
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well, I kind of did that when I located the spine, but I don't think I flexed it to 90 degrees
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Thank you Tom
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Yeah, it doesn’t clean off. I uploaded a couple of photos if anyone is interested. The whole thing spirals about 18 inches down the blank. This is near the tip end , , the blank diameter is probably about 3 to 4 mm at this point. Unfortunately, I have the grips on the blank already, can’t send it back. Learned a lesson to inspect closely next time doing anything to it
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Firstly… Happy Thanksgiving everyone! Secondly…. I have an NFC X-ray blank ready to go for a build. It is unfinished type with the circular ridges running the blank. Last night I was inspecting it under light and noticed what I thought was a crack. This is a faint line that tracks in a spiral around the blank for about 8 inches 1/3 way back from the tip. Almost looks like a line was wrapped
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Thanks Roger, what I have works on the same concept of what you have posted. The Teflon discs are a good idea. If I ever use it I will try to source some of these, cause I do use metallic thread frequently
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Hello Tom, I have been unable to navigate the photo page. When I attempt to register it tells me my email is already in the database. Then when I click on forgot password it tells me my email is not in the database. Anyway what you describe is likely it. It looks like it came from the factory. It has nonthreaded rods for spool supports on either side. Pigtails for running the thread, a “crane
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Hello, I have a Renzetti from the early 90s. There is a carriage which is not mobile that looks like it is designed to hold thread. It has a pivoting arm just like the regular thread carriage, space for one spool, and a set of cupped washers that have a spring and are adjustable. Looks like the thread or cord may go through these. Anyone have an idea of what this is?
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Billy Vivona Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > IT's a shame Sharpie doesn't make extra fine water > based pens any more. Taht is what you want to use. > I have all teh other Sharpies mentioned and none > of them leave teh small dot you are looking to > make. Sorry to add another useless information > post to your question, but I figured sinc
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > No need to over complicate things with micro > guides. > > Simply put, ortho bands are the inexpensive quick > and easy anwer. > > Simply slip the appropriate sized ortho blanks > over the tip of the blank and bring them down into > position for each guide. > > Hold the
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I never put any marks on a blank with anything > when wrapping. > > Rather I use tape. > > Then, if it is necessary to write on the blank, I > use a piece of masking tape first and then use a > ball point pen on the masking tape. Never any > marks left on the blank. > &g
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Guy, I should’ve been more clear. Using it for index marks before crosswrapping. I think either one of the ones you listed will work. I have been looking for those and haven’t been able to find them ,thank you very much.
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What have you is best for marking blanks before thread wrapping? I have been using a sharpie ultrafine in white. It is an oil based ink and you have to push down on the point to get it wet. It frequently get dry, and when you push down on the point it will leave big globs of ink where you are trying to mark. Ultra fine it’s just the right size for marking. I have also tried the sharpie fiine po
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Thank you Richard
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Anyone know where to find. Not looking for metallic, thanks
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All great ideas… thanks guys!
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Thanks for all the ideas. I work off the kitchen table, and have to clean up after myself. Lots of good stuff on Amazon that will work for me
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Looking for ideas on how to organize threads. Right now all of mine are in a couple of Ziploc bags. What you got?
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I tape a thread at each end, down the center of the blank, where I want the top of the label to go, and align to that.
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Thank you for the information. Sadly, it has seen better days, and it’s just an interesting piece to have in the rod rack
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Hoping someone may know about this. Google wasn’t much help. A friend gave me an old bamboo rod. It is A two piece rod and hexagonal. There is a sticker that has congress fishing tackle and below that SBM company. Does not appear to be a flyrod, and relatively short by today’s standards, probably about 56 inches. The tip is interesting, it is dome shape with two holes drilled at 180° angles. T
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Thanks, the CP was a little lumpy, but a new bottle. I removed the lumps with a light brush touch, dunno
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I just laid the first coat of epoxy on size D Guidebrod champion nylon thread in a grey color. I laid on three coats of U40 CP first, and let it dry overnight about 12 hours, and after the first coat epoxy was laid on, the thread has darkened irregulary, with what can be described as “tiger striping” . Oh well, I guess I’ll learn to live with it, and call it a “special effect” What went w
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David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > On rods that I use for bottom contact baits, where > I am fishing the rod, tip up, and trying to feel a > bite (jigs, tubes, Texas rigged soft plastics, > etc.) I set a degree of balance. Meaning I don't > actually care where the rod and reel actually > balance, I just care that it feels tip lig
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Do you try to set a balance point? I’m not sure exactly where it should be but were the index finger grips the rod would seem like a good spot
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Roger, > Just think that CP is a sealant that seals the > color of the threads. It does nothing with > respect to UV light and its effect on anything. > > Best wishes Thanks, my take away from all this is there is no need to use it unless you want to be able to remove your guides easier
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Thanks for clarifying Roger Does the color preserver prevent the threads from fading from UV light, or is it mainly to brighten the thread before epoxy is applied?
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you goal is the greatest possible wrap > "strength" you will use nothing else but > PermaGloss. Epoxy is weak compared. > > ......... Does this take the place of epoxy and CP, all in one?
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