This totally depends on the specific epoxy being used, the temperature of the epoxy at mix time (and if heat was added) and the temperature the rod is in during curing. My shop is in my finished basement where it stays around 65ish. I don’t usually heat the epoxy though right now the temps are a bit lower and I’ll hit it with a few seconds of heat while mixing. The rod then goes into a tem
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Anodizing on neither aluminum or titanium will give a "color-shift" effect that the pearl-based paints do. Now, that said, some of the titanium guides I've anodized depending on various conditions somethings have a minor bnit of that effect... but its within the same color - unlike the true colorshifts that go across a broader spectrum with shifting angle of viewing. I forgot t
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excited to see this part of rod building history
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HFF offers the magnets used on the RailWrapper
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I’ve started powder coating winding checks - just haven’t had a chance to get them up on the website yet. I do t currently have a color shift powder like I think you’re thinking about. I do have one with holographic flake which gives a color shifting effect. Drop me an email at backcreekcustomrods@
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Welcome aboard Tom
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just expanding a bit for other materials such as acrylics, or other that you may use... EVA to EVA - solvent based content cemener (not the water based) Cork to Cork (including burl/rubberized) - Titebond III mixed materials, including acrylics - epoxy - such as RodBond grips to blank - epoxy
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- ability to stay logged in - ability to add multiple pics to a single post - ability to edit post in the app
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Welcome Dan!
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Welcome to the addiction!
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I’ve machine mixed Gen4 for 3 years now / about 3 min a mix - with no issues. It is true that the metal mixing piece will not scrape the sides of the cup as well as hand mixing - when I pour out the epoxy into my dish I then use the brush to help get it all out of the cup and sometimes I’ll see some consistency differences that result / but I’ll stir it a bit in the dish - just a little - and th
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Make sure your guide stands are adjusted so the blank is level - or not “torqued” - or one stand higher than the other. Also, the dryer motor will turn both directions - just hold it and it will switch. If it’s falling out when it turns one specific direction make sure you get it running the opposite
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Merry Christmas!
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One more a light and bright :)
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Overwrapped with Maderia and no CP so even a bit lighter than Fuji A
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They are totally different looks - NCP looks to me like painted on plastic - so to each their own - the extra effort is worth it to me. As to lighter tip…. Well with applying epoxy only after wrapping the second wrap and using the a very fine A metallic and size A nylon, I am going to seriously doubt a noticeable difference on anything other than ultralight blanks but I’m not going to get caugh
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > However, if one wants bright, vibrant colors with > regular thread, CP has to be used. At least I've > never found a way to get a bright candy apple red > without CP (assuming regular thread, which I like > for its sheen.). Trick I learned from Ernie Horvath at a NC gathering the year ICRBE was
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If you don't have it, I recommend Decorative Wraps by Billy Vivona. It goes into the details on how to calculate things - along with many other helpful details on doing a closed wrap. I look at VisualWrap and DecorativeWraps as going hand-in-hand VisualWrap will give you the details you need for tapered spacing, which you should use for a closed wrap to help things close out evenly. Be VER
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It’s been a great set of discussions with lots of good info thus far
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Lots of good options. CTS Rainshadow Revelation RodGeeks Carolina Custom Pro
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John - can you tell what is wobbling - is it at the chuck? Is it perhaps alignment of the stands to the chuck center plane? The main times I get instabllity is if a) the stand heights are out of alignment from each other and the centerpoint of the chuck b) there is a long distance from the chuck to 1st stand (sometimes you can't control this based on the handle and decorative wraps, etc) or c
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It’s a bit hard to tell in those pics as lighting and such of the pics may be a little different. I’ll run some side by side test of bare thread and various CPs soon
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Generation 4 Vivid first takes…. For those not aware, Vivid is a new color preserver on the market from Andy Dear - of Generation 4 epoxy. With Chromaseal no longer available we’ve all been looking for a good alternative. Finally got a wrap done to give Vivid a go. Open chevron wrapped with Maderia. First pic is before application of Vivid. 2nd pic is after 1st coat. (2nd coat is dryi
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John Sansevera Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Is this color Preserver water based Yes
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Ready to give some a whirl…..
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I see this often coming from catfish anglers and striped bass anglers who are used to using Ugly Sticks or some of the Chinese container rods being marketed by numerous companies to the catfish community, trying to say their ceramic-less all stainless guides are better than ones with ceramics. The issue is the comparison is to very cheap guides and its no wonder the ceramics break/fall out.
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I don’t think I’ve seen 12” carbon fiber but check NFC’s website. The carbon tubes are an option but won’t have the “texture” of the “raw” carbon fiber…. Batson/Forecast has one you can get from their distributors and NFC may have something similar Sometimes if the heat shrink does not shrink enough it can let go like that over time - I’ve started to put a very thin layer of structural
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Doubt it was build by CTS but rather a custom on their blanks and the grip is heat shrink of some form / likely flock or scale pattern heat shrink. Very common on surf rods - at least down this was in NC and Va Assuming he does not want a carbion fiber grip the full length between butt and reel seat? If you’re not removing the reel seat you’d need to over ream to install from the butt and a
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