Gen 4 has worked very well for me on a number or rods. I hit each wrap with a short burst from a heat gone to eradicate any bubbles, but I do not get many to begin with. I stir very well and let sit a few minutes then pour into a small aluminum cup that I buy from Mud Hole. I hit the cup with short pop from a heat gone and bubbles adios. I dilute with a few drops of DNA or even of late Isopro
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Yup, Mick, the more the merrier. In life my maxims are "less is more" and "when in doubt throw it out" or "go without." That clearly does not apply to fly rods, nor for my spouse does it include shoes, handbags or attire. How did your Eternity2 rods come out? As we once discussed, I have an Eternity2 9 foot 6 wt. It was a continual enigma as I could not find
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First, look at some of the many fine videos on rod making on YouTube and follow them step by step. MudHole and many videos. And while not s sponsor of this forum, Proof Fly Fishing has really good step by step videos. There are a ton out there: : Questions: Do you know the brand or model of blank you have? Is it 2 piece or 4 piece? If you know the brand or model, you can look up the r
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I personally find dismantling an existing rod to be a total PITA and, if the existing rod is working but is not appointed the way you desire, I concur with above from Lance, and I would just build a new rod. I really hate trying to get all the guide epoxy off.
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Don't want to confuse. Will just say for clarity sake: Per directly above post, whatever guides you choose, a 4 wt is best with stripper of size 10. Per Herb's comments, I also prefer the REC RSFX over the RSF due to size and it being a bit more stout. And, as stated, but always worth repeating, the inner size of the guide need only be large enough to ensure the leader to line and line t
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I don't perceive this as people hating on ceramics, but rather a thread on opinion or advice on guide differences and their affect, if any, on performance. From an objective POV, physics would say the harder and/or smoother the guide (less friction), the more efficiently or better the line will slide through the guide. How much better, and if that is perceptible to the angler, is the major q
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While it like Rec guides, and their bend-back-to-shape feature is a good one, they do make a certain noise or harmonic with many lines, which I don't like. I agree that guides and hardware will not have a huge effect on casting for most anglers but, by the rule of physics, and perhaps noticeable to a good caster and his rod's performance, there will be a benefit from good guides that offer les
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You will not top the CTS blank in terms of quality if it is in your price range. And Herb frequents this forum and will treat you well in terms of service, feedback and expertise. If you need to spend less, the NFC LMX fly blanks are very good offerings ifor the money. If you are looking for a bargain, you can check with Hook and Hackle as they have a 10 ft. 3 wt in their Xi line up that i
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Some good advice above. If you can move it, that is not an issue, as even a proper wrap will allow for some adjustment. You want to press against the side of the guide foot with even pressure front to back to rotate the guide within the wraps. It should feel a bit firm but not like it is in a death grip. Don't push by the guide loop. I adjust all my guides after wrapping them and before ep
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Well, you have been given a lot of good advice, options and opinions from experienced rod builders. The great thing is that now you can take that advice and meld it into your own custom preference, which is the beauty of rod making. Tom published this one a long time ago, and it remains totally relevant. Also, for some perspective, a 5 weight line has a diameter of about .05 inches, or
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I think they do, but few and far between. I have heard nothing about their fly rods or blanks for years. Here is from their website:
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Yes, you can do that and, by the way, it is not out of the norm. Please see the guide size recommendations on the Epic fly rod site for their 590 and 690 graphite rods: Their designer, Carl McNeil, makes great rods and is super knowledgeable. As you see he recommends 1/0 and 1, just as you are desiring. All you need to do is pass a line knot or loop through the guide.
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Once you have met certain functional, spacing and sizing requirements for your fly rod guides, the remaining choices and fine tuning are up to you, which is the great part of building your own rods. Tom likes the Minima, which is great. He is not alone in that fondness. They are very good guides. I lean toward ti-gray colored wire and single foot, as they meet my visual preference and also re
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I don't like the look on the Minima or similar style guides on fly rods. When I use single foot, which is on most of my fly rods 6 weight or less, I use traditional type wire guides, which can be had for less than $2 per guide. You can get Recoil or Snake brands for a bit more than $3.
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5 or 6 weight fly rod only needs one double foot stripper guide. The second guide need not be a stripper type, as technically only the first guide is a stripper. You can then 1) gradually taper the running guides, meaning going gradually to smaller guides towards the tip; 2) quickly taper the guides from stripper; 3) or just go from stripper to one size of running guide. For 5 or 6 weight
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I don't see RX10 fly rods, but the Cobalt RX9.
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When are you getting the Eternity RX10 fly rod blanks?
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David Baylor: Yup, GOATs also have tremendous focus and the ability to perform under pressure, and are very consistent. And they tend to be specific about equipment and technique, but not always. A more sensitive rod will not necessarily make a better angler. An angler's greatest asset is his or her ability to focus on being in the moment and attuned to the situation and water. For such
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Just to clarify, I do not build for the savings of it, thought that is part of the equation. I am retired, so I have the time. I build 4 piece fly rods. I enjoy catching a fish on a rod I built, as there is a certain satisfaction to that, the same as with a fly you have tied.. The other great part of DIY is one can customize all aspects of the rod with components you like or colors you like v
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An interesting blog post on fly rod guides: The human sensory system is very capable of noticing minute differences is weight and the balance of weight, which has been proven in a number of sports over the years in a number of empirical and anecdotal ways. Ted Williams would reject a large amount of the custom bats made for him. Was he a Diva or could he feel the difference. Well, he hi
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The path to finding some of their parts can be a bit confusing.
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I would not buy a Core 8 fly blank unless you have cast or fished the rod and totally love it and believe it is the best rod you have ever cast or fished. The cost of a Core8 blank is way too high IMHO. There are many other blanks that can compete with a Core 8 -- if not outperform -- and cost far less -- CTS, Epic, NFC. The new NFC Carbon Air and Batson RX10 fly blanks are no doubt quite go
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Lure Parts Online has PacBay:
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A quality scientific experiment needs to control variables. Whether one is measuring TNF or using a vibration meter at 60 hz, you are measuring a frequency, vibration or oscillation of a tapered tube after putting it into motion, either by flexing it or testing its resonance via a speaker. A variety of factors will influence the outcome -- blank materials, modulus, wall thickness, blank diamete
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The best rods tend to have faster recovery times. I would be interested to see the TNF numbers for an Epic G blank, a Douglas Sky G rod, or the new NFC Carbon Air or Batson X10. Or say a Loomis Asquith or the top Taylor rods. They all employ the latest high tech carbon fiber and resins that enable rapid recovery, which is basically the stopping of tip oscillation, which can only enable better
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I would have to say that the area of the decal, particularly on unsanded blanks such as NFC LMX or Epic G blanks, that I have a hard time making the area over the label super smooth. Even if I sand it and do 3 or 4 thin coats.
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Re: Measure Thread Finish Epoxy by Weight? Posted by: Chris Catignani (---) Date: November 01, 2023 06:03PM david taylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The truth of the issue is that syringes are the > easiest method but cause waste. David...we are'nt sticking the syringes in the bottle any more...there is no waste. My 1.5 to 2.0 cc mix of f
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The truth of the issue is that syringes are the easiest method but cause waste. You have to measure at least 1,5 cc's of each type of the mixture (some would argue 2 or 3ccs) without major bubble issues to ensure an accurate enough mix, and you wind up with waste inside and outside of the syringe, and too much final epoxy product for a single coat. For the fly rods I make I have lately been u
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Many top rod designers tend to prefer use small guides on their rods, and lighter weight guides on low weight rods. I've gone to smaller guides, and lighter single foot guides on my fly rods less than 7 wt. It also saves a lot of wrapping and thread epoxying time. I can't say I am sure I feel the difference, but a lighter fly rod always seems preferable to a heavier one.
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Logan: I understand what you are saying, and am not arguing, only trying to underscore a few points. I agree that sensitivity is only one factor for me, as it is for most, when choosing a rod. In my case, that is a fly rod. The greatest benefit to me in a fly rod's sensitivity is in nymph fishing, and the sense or "feel" of the nymph, weight and strike being transmitted through
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