Do what Steve said. No need to sand. Just make sure your blade is new. Best blades I've ever used are the Persona brand that can be purchased at beauty supply stores. They're the sharpest I've ever run across.
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His website is listed on his post. Prices and information is right at the top.
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y wife and I just decided on the date when we'll host our second annual "Gathering in the Swamps" rodbuilders gathering on May 2nd and 3rd 2015, which is on Saturday and Sunday. Starting at 9:00 AM and ending at who knows what time PM. This is an open invitation to anyone from anywhere that wants to come on down for a cràwfish boil on Saturday with all the fixin's like potatoes, saus
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Andrew unhide your email address in your settings. I'm stocking Matagi components to decorate your reel seat with custom hood and nut configurations. I'll send you some photos of some already made. Or, give me a call tomorrow and I could text them to you. I have a pretty good selection of parts.
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Tom check out my site. I have them listed and most colors are in stock.
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Why remove anything from the blank. There are hundreds of models of blanks available in the 6'8" to 6'10" lengths. Another thing not mentioned that if you trim a blank either way mos if not all warranties are voided. It's much easier finding a blank in the length you want than trying to figure out which end you want to cut.
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We received our shipment. Just call if anyone would like more information.
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In my opinion there's no best one coat finish. I always put a thin coat then let dry. Cut off any rogue threads or fuzzies then apply a second coat. I always get a nice, smooth and level finish that way.
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Tony C Robinson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks for the reply. 16 will probably work just > fine. I'll check your site for it. Not listed on my site. Please call.
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Bill I had 17 of the PTS seats at the Houston fishing show last week and the carbon tubes to fit. Two Rod manufacturers found out I had them and they bought all I had. I still have som Sz 16 TVS seats in stock along with the tubes.
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I stock the size 16 threaded barrels that comes with the Fuji SK2 skeleton seats. I can order the 17's for you. If you'd like to give me a call we can work out the details. The only length I have available is about two and a half inches long.
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Sorry to disappoint but but reaming grips to fit will usually have to be done on just about every rid you build. Using Winn grips is no exception. If the blank is not much larger than the ID of the grip lubricating it with epoxy or rubber cement will bring it to where you need to go.
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Always put at least two thin coats. I guarantee that it will look much better than one.
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The distance is up to you. Whether it's 9-10-11 or 12 inches. Measure the grip on one of your favorite rods and if that length suits you go for it. If you're using a standard Fuji reel seat without the cut out glue in a Flex Coat arbor into the seat and after its cured ream the arbor to fit the blank at the position you choose. Lance
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It looks more like teal in NCP
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I will but I won't be exhibiting this year.
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Roger the MB844 is a great worm and jig blank and the 964 was used for throwing crankbaits. None of the original Castaway blanks are available anymore except for a few older model close outs that may be laying around.
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Ream and epoxy both ways. Simplest way.
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Merrill Tackle used to sell the Sabiki blanks and tips at one time. Maybe Mudhole has some left from their recent buyout.
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The paint goes all the way to the tip and has a clear coat applied at the factory. There is no flex coat on the tip when you purchase a blank.
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We have an abundance of 10" long mandrels in sizes 3/8, 5/16, 7/16 and 1/2 " 1/4" are out of stock. For making split grips the shorter mandrel in my opinion works better than longer ones.
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I still have some 10" mandrels left in various sizes but none of the 1/4".
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Bill I don't think any company out there is "too Lazy" to do a certain step in their building process. Things are done and not done for reasons. That lazy remark was pretty lame for a nicer way to put it than I wanted to.
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Why go through the extra trouble using double sided tape, lighter fluid and what ever else it takes when you can ream and epoxy it on in just a couple of minutes. Try it out and you'll realize how simple it is.
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Apply just like any other grip. Ream to size and epoxy them on.
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Tom. Please give me s call in your spare time. I could help you out on this.
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On a light spinning rods I don't recommend using the belly guides. You could do a 16-8-5.5 then run 4 or 4.5's to the tip. I've done dozens of rods that way with very good results. Also I've done many using just the sz 16 high frame then the 5.5 high frame then sz 4.5 runners. It works as well as the three guide set up
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TKLAG - Tangle free spinning guides TKTAG. - Single foot running guides You would be better off using the TKLAG-H guides for your first three and then the TKTAG running guides to the tip, all the same size.
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All the HM blanks are being redesigned and additional models are on the way.
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Any grit under 220 you're asking for trouble.100, 150, even 180 is way too course to rub on a rod blank. On a 2X4 yes, on a rod blank no way.
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