I use two different size mandrels depending on the diameter of the rod. I use threaded rods not true lathe mandrels but the same idea holds. I bore out each ring, glue them together as I slide them onto the threaded rod. Each ring is bored out more or less to the mandrel size. Once the glue dries I shape the grip and then I use Dream Reamers to bore out the drip to the final size of the rod I
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Very funny. Honestly the worst fly fishing accidents I have seen have from spey rods and usually involved ears......
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REC recoils are definitely the way to go but I like the heavy ones better. I use them along with Pac Bay Minima strippers. No rings to pop out. The fishery does not have to be only chuck and duck. I don't fish that way but C&D is definitely the most efficient way to do it.
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Have fun. Hopefully you will be on foot and not in a drift boat as far as figuring out how to fish. You rod setup will be complete different if you are on a boat.
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My drill press is a floor model so there is plenty of room. The vice is simply a vice that clamps to the drill press table and has long jaws parallel to the table. It has X and Y adjustments. If I rotate the table 90 degrees then the jaws are parallel with the direction of the drill bit. Ideally you want to bore out the ring before glue up. However I only remember about half the time :-( Ano
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I often do mine after. I put the grip in a vice rotated on the drill press to support most of the grip. I picked up a set of forstner bits for about $20 that are in 1 or 2mm increments. I pick one that is close. Center the grip on the drill press using a regular spiral bit and then replace it with the boring bit. Not sure how well the spade will work. If you have a dremel tool you can under
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Then I would go with the switch. However since you have never fly fished I would learn with what you have. Figure out the style of fishing you plan to do (indicator, nymphing, swinging) and get a few fish on the rod before spending more money. If yo don't have friends to learn from I suggest you hire a guide on the water you want to fish. He/she will teach you the basics and reduce the learni
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Mark, Not sure where you are trying to fish but in the northeast in many of the Great Lake tribs an 8wt is fine. The Amtak blank in more of a medium fast blank with is perfect to protect lighter tippets. If you want build another rod I would not build another single hand rod, I would build a 7 or 8wt 11' switch rod. You can treat it like a single hand where it will give you better control wh
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I'm not sure either however if you want to play around with a long "fly rod" to see if it is a better solution for you or not, go on the popular @#$%& site and look for either a "switch" or "spey" rod blank. Something in the 7 - 9 wt range, 11 - 12' long. You will be able to find something for $50. The problem with these blanks might be lifting power since they are
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Angler's Roost is not currently accepting orders. The owner passed away last December.
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Supposed to be "smoother" and therefore shoot better. I have a couple of rods I built that way. Can't say I noticed a difference in casting distance. However I did have a ring pop out of one while on a fishing trip. That was enough for me to not use them again. I think stripper guides are less likely to "pop" because there is more clearance around knots and loops then a
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I would go with 16,12 strippers Pac Bay Model T in titanium frame and REC recoil heavy snakes for the rest with a traditional large hoop tip top. I personally would not use agate (stone) or the microwave guide. The whole point of the microwave guide is control the looping effect of line coming off of a spinning reel. Your fly line is already coming through "straight".
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Nick, I think you misunderstood me. I was suggesting you wrap the tape around the rod you are building and use that as the grip. However if you idea works then so much the better. I really think you don't want big thick reamed out grips on that rod. With a cord wrap you will be somewhere around 0.9 which is good.
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I have these on a couple of rods and the rings are holding up fine. However the plated frames don't like saltwater. Green corrosion which is no doubt from the plating undercoat.
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I would use cork tape or other sorts of wraps. Given the diameter of the blank plus a wrap and you will have the perfect diameter.
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I picked up 4 spools of their thread at the fly fishing show in Marlboro in January. Just started using them last night so I don't have much experience but so far so good. THe guy at the show had lots of interesting colors and several sizes. Little more expensive than ProWrap but not enough to worry about. Quinn
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I just measured my favorite 12' spey rod. Both the butt and second section had a similar OD. I think your observation is normal.
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Herb, Thank you for the reply. Unfortunately the person I'm building the rod for is not an expert caster like yourself (and Mike) and the thought of him managing a 12'6" rod puts a smile on my face but it will not do the same for him! He is a trout guy and a small stream trout guy at that. I have not doubt he will learn but for now the money is better spent elsewhere. Like casting les
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I know most any switch rod blank can be used overhead but most are gear towards spey type cast. Are there any available blanks geared towards overhand blanks? Looking for an 8wt. Beulah make a complete rod in their Onyx series but I don't think they sell blanks for that series. I also have a R Meiser 5/6/7 "S" 11'1" blank but I don't have enough time on it to know if it is idea
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