And the propaste mixs about 90% but getting the resin out of the jar is a 2 popsicle stick chore.. Lol it'll snap 1 without even trying.. Im about to use some here in about 20 min. (Or however long it takes for me to reem that hapalon) i finally got the stuff to finish(start) that downrigger rod.. Ill warm it up and give er a go
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Definatly no contaminants, i pull what 12ml of each into a syringe, put the bottles away until i need more.. Lynn says i do it backwards.. Lol but i figure theres less chance of contamination and oxidation this way
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Wow.. A week huh? Thats a heck of alot better then the 3 days i get with a warm water bath.. Thanks roger.. Wonder why nuking it works longer.. Probably becouse of heating from the core out i would think.
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In that case, i have to just live with it.. We have a single range for the whole house, and my rod room is on the second floor, the thermostat is on the first floor in line with the front door.. So basically what that translates to is the 2nd floor being generally 10-15 degrees warmer. My wife keeps the thermostat at 68° so its about 78° upstairs generally.. Except for those cold nights.. Old
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I figured as much.. Im just curious now as to why my resins are crystalizing.. My room never drops below 65°, ive had my pro paste, (honestly cant wait until is done so i can use rod bond... Waste not...) Hitena thread resin, and some diamond cote resin all cloud up.. Yet an older bottle of Hitena is crystal clear yet.. All stored in the same General vacinity.. Its a pain in the ass reheating
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So, Just wondering.. I know if you have thread epoxy crystalize on you theres no harm in heating the epoxy itself (without the hardener) to melt the crystalization for proper mixing, how about reel seat epoxy? Or would it chemically alter the properties of the resin itelf?
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Just thought id pop in.. I have the stuff.. Havent acually gone through with it yet, but this is directly from mark crouse on how he did his build with the crocodile guide.. Get some purple carving wax, its a little harder, so you can shape it nicely with sculpting tools.. Once your happy with the guide design, send it to a company that does casting, for me Pittsburg would be the go to place.
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Just figured id give an update to anyone following this thread.. So i finally got the last package from mudhole, no foregrip.. Gimball is the wrong color.. Called them this morning to get the foregrip changed to one they had in stock, they told me monday that the tapered foregrip was in stock, obviously it isnt yet, called a second time today and the dude said hes getting it out today priorit
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I ended up going with a alps CAH22M-R centra lock seat, 12"rear, 10" taperwd fore hapalon grips, a rainshadow toughstick 1 pc. 7' 15-30# and fuji mn guides 20, 16, 12, and. 8 10s just in case... Tio top to match
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Does anyone see a issue with using fuji MN guides? I assume they are worthy
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Please! And his has the line counter as well.. It is the round style.. Sorry for the delay in response
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If any sponsors are reading this, and have a decent idea of what i need better then i do, please chime in, im not picky on where everything comes from, 1 place stop is always better then getting things from here and there.. I know a few chimed in already, im planning on going through to see what everyone has available
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Im pretty sure he doesnt.. The rod its replcing had that monster aftco seat.. Wicked overkill
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Your alright lynn.. I had the same thought when he originally asked me about it.. He kinda cought me at the most inopportune moment at work.. I was making a weld between 2 sheets of heavy guage metal.. That requires a bridge.. So you hit the weld, welder comes towards you, jog forward, welder goes back.. Jog forward to the other side of the bridge, repeat.. The sheet was 36" so theres no tim
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Ok, im guessing you think a 22 is too large?
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Ok, so i glt ahold of him.. Gonna go with the MHX DR845 i kind of have a thing for MHX blanks.. They havent led me wrong yet.. And atleast the ones ive built on Can take a beating.. Going to put a 12" haplon rear grip, not sure on foregrip yet.. The reel seat and guides im still not sure on.. He wants all aluminum for the seat.. I corrected him, the reel is,t a Telora, kts a Teko
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True thanks lynn..
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Ive asked him about spiral wraps the first time i went out with him.. Hes honestly closed minded to them.. He just cant see the benifit of them.. Im going to go over a few things with him this weekend, specifically find out of hes going to use it for a down rigger explicitly.. And if hes open to other blanks, not just rainshadow.. I have my eye on that mhx.. Lol
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Simply put, he loves his rainshadow.. He built it years ago, norm can attest to it being a definate first build.. Lol he wanted a twin, but has no idea where the rod got to.. So i cant use it as a reference.. It will be used for a downrigger, only reason he said fiberglass is he understands the stress it goes through.. He had 2 okuma rods, they both broke, bkth got replaced and broke again.. I as
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Ive found my prefered setup for rivers, lakes, etc. Is my 2 piece 7' popping rod.. Has a fast tip so ypu feel a lot of sensitivity, and a great backbone to send it.. 6-12lb test. P-843-2 MHX It can cast 1/4-1/2 oz. I believe.. Match that with hitena air braid... Look out.. Lol
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Thanks roger. So im assuming by that video there are specific blanks for each application.. Like downriging, dipsy divers, planers, copper rods.. All are classified as trolling rods correct? I get you with the handle lengths, i have a penn long beach trolling rod ive never gotten the chance to use, hard to pass up for 10$..
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Theres a few diffrent tools for whip finishing.. And as long as your not a lefty.. And wrap things backwards, the Thompson whip finisher i believe would work.. It's a inline finisher (one direction though) Honestly the greats in fly tying told it to me best.. It doesnt matter what tool you use or how you do it.. Its all just wrapping thread over thread.
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Alright.. Been awhile since i posted, but im not 100% on how to approach this build.. I have a few wishs from the customer.. See what you guys think, or suggest.. First off, the rod is for lake Ontario, launching from Mexico Bay, obviously for kings.. The only times ive ever been salmon fishing was there with these guys.. And i cannot believe how much bend they put into the 2 interior rods alo
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Hmm... I have no idea what thats about.. I used that spool not to long ago.. Sorry for possible contamination... Now im worried about all my thread.. However i havent done anything obscure in my wrapping area lately.. I used my fuji neon green recently without any issues... I wonder if it has something to do with your thread preserver.. I dont use it very often.. Sorry it took me so long to read
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Rod building has helped me many many times on diffrent scenarios, as well as fly tying, i agree with dennis danko, you should give that a try, if anything, it wouls give a unique sound... Might want to change the bridge at the headstock too, it would be easy if you have solid stock.. And go figure.. Now i want to get my bass out and start beating the strings again lol
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Agreed with normans response
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I know jim, my biggest issue, as stupid as it is, you cant see the kr gps without placing your phone into landscape orientation... I know, first world problems! Lol
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Personlly i dont care for the new site.. I think the old site had a better flow.. However, i am using mobile...
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I wouldnt call myself a professional lol
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It seriously is good stuff.. If they carried gallon jugs i would probably order it! Lol
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