Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Seth, I got my Fuji corrosion control guides from > the Rod Room. As far as I know they were the first > to get these guides. The girls at the Rod Room are > great and they get their orders out very fast. > They are just down the rod from Anglers Resource > so if they run out they can get them
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Herb hope there was no misunderstanding, the > corrosion control guides cost the same as the > regular Fuji stainless steel K guides with > Alconite rings. It’s a win win situation. If you > are talking about the older Fuji Y and V guides, > the Fuji K guides are really a step up in > perfo
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Corrosion is one aspect of guides that mean nothing to me because i have never had any Fuji guide show any corrosion in decades of salt water fishing . Of course i do rinse tackle in fresh water but if there are anglers out there that never wash their equipment than this is obviously a good thing . I am very interested in Jim's comment of 35% lighter but not at Norman's comment of it being a m
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brian rossi Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I used that same layout on the first rod I built. > It was a 10'6" blank. It worked well but I was > using a smallish reel for the rod. When I upgraded > to a larger reel I had some significant line slap. > Of course I had done my testing with the smaller > reel so it's not necessarily becau
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can use single foot K guides or should I use double foot. Sure you can but i agree with Barry , start with a few doubles then go to singles , an all single foot train on an 11 footer for the surf is quite uncommon as iv'e never seen one set up like that but sure it would work. How it will hold up over the long term with the rigors of surf fishing i can't say.
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Thanks Roger , will try your recommendations , and thank you mike .
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That link you posted is a great writeup , i have read it 4 different times, three times a few weeks ago and again just now and unfortunately whats recommended for rods over 10 feet does not provide the height that gives me the straight edge effect . Granted i am working with a single guide frame type instead of having many many choices so thats a factor . If i mixed and matched different fram
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Imo , there is no method that is easier and more accurate than having a taught line coming from the reels spool axle to choker guide and i say this after using the table edge method numerous times beforehand . The table edge method works but it's nowhere near as precise , it's certainly better than nothing but table edges have to have a perfectly square edge the entire length and eyeballing the
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > herb canter Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Norman , you DO NOT have the rod upside down > when > > testing you strap the rod in the upside down > > position with the reel attached when laying out > > the guides for the REDUCTION train t
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Double post
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have to admit I'm confused, and concede I'll > probably not get it even with further attempts. > I only want to point out that with 2 and 4 pound > test fireline, almost any reasonable guide sizing > and arranging setup will cast a country mile. Thanks Mike , yeah 2 to 4 pound line is ev
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Norman , you DO NOT have the rod upside down when testing you strap the rod in the upside down position with the reel attached when laying out the guides for the REDUCTION train to check their HEIGHT . You remove the spool and crank the reel handle until the axle is extended as far as it will go , you then attach a thin taught line from the axle end and tie it off to your preset choker based on
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Maybe i'm too caught up in having the line touch the bottom of each reduction guide when the rod is upside down and using a taught line like a straightedge . The larger and higher guide is the only guide that allows that to be accomplished . The next size guide down and i need to push it even further out to accomplish this which makes 70% of the rod length unsupported .
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The guides should be sized so that the line touches the inside of the ring furthest from the rod blank. When retrieving, the line should only touch that same edge on the inside of the butt guide. The stripper i assume , so it's better for the line to NOT follow a complete circle inside the guide only to briefly touch the bottom edge do i have it right ?
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Are you meaning when reeling in the line in slowly under tension or do you mean stringing a taught line, (With the rod upside down ) with spool removed and spool axle extended to it's furthest position and having a taught line attached to the end of spool axle to the top of the choker guide ? Goal being the taught line lightly touching the top of each reduction guide ring (With rod/reel upside
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Yeah, it's me again , yeah i know what does he want this time but anyway two questions , 1st question is for Roger , i found Roger's 360 degree guide test interesting for the stripper and tried it. I found that the line did make contact with the entire inner edge of the stripper when reeling in line with tension however, when i moved the guide a foot or two in either direction it also made
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Your rod is a Daiwa , an American buttcap is risky , Fuji would be a safer bet . Yes, i'm kidding , good luck to you and enjoy your holiday.
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Well, thats the way i have always dealt with buttcaps , i have never had a buttcap even move let alone pop off the end of a rod , the fit is extremely snug . You have to really pull and twist to get it to come off and thats without any glue.
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If all your concerned about is where to purchase a buttcap and which one will fit my rod your in excellent shape , check out the sponsors to the left of the page . I never use glue for a buttcap , measure the diameter at the end of the rod and make a note of it then look for a buttcap that has an inner diameter that is a couple mill smaller and you will get a snug fit. Hardware stores even H
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The Penns will be heavier than Shimano's of equal size mainly because the Penns have a metal rotor and body where most shimano's have a graphite side plate and rotor which doesn't take away from their quality because i believe the Shimano's typically have the better internals . The Gosa is a great reel and a great fit for that specific rod , it's a stellar choice for the salt due to the simplicit
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For a 10 foot surf rod i like reels in the 18-22 oz range for balance and the reels are typically in the 5500- 6500 in the Penn reel sizes and 5000-8000 sizes if you prefer Shimano . These size reels have more line capacity than any surfcaster will ever need especially if using braid and are exceptionally popular and work well with the overwhelming majority of surf rods from 9-11.5 feet .
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I think Threadmaster Lite has longer working time than original threadmaster . I personally stick to what i have had good success with because when i switch to something else i usually end up cussing myself for doing it.
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I read pretty much everything you comment on because you seem to be the person who really knows about motors and speed control etc... I like to build my own stuff and am always looking for places to buy these kinds of things , love the images of everything you have done in your own shop .
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I understand , i only changed to the 3 guide reduction train based on comments from others but to be honest in real world casting i don't think minor changes to this stuff makes a noticeable difference . Next step is to test cast a few different spacings and decide . Thanks for all your help it's very much appreciated and this goes for all who have commented in this thread i thank you very
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Thanks Norm , the stripper is a 30 so i don't see a problem moving it a tad closer to the reel if needed and i don't mind an inch and a half difference between the 25 and 16 if it's going to provide the best performance which it probably will since that is the spacing that gives the perfect bullseye line path . I looked into the 12 M and i would be willing to go with it if i found one with
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Thanks Norm , i understand you can move things around if you have to however my goal was to get an ideal reduction train from my original 4 guide train 30-25-20-12 down to a choker of size 8 but following the 27 X rule my KW 12 landed exactly where the choker should be placed so then others suggested a 3 guide reduction train would be better . I removed the KW 20 and ordered a KW 16 so i could
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Oh OK , i didn't know if people would know that i posted an update to the original or not . Thank you
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I have read through all the rules and still cannot find a way to continue a post i placed previously to let people know it was continued without placing a completely new post so people can be aware of it . Any help appreciated. Thank you very much
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OK i got the KW 16 in and reworked a few things as Jim suggested , i now have a 3 guide reduction train which is a 30 - 25 - 16 with the choker size 8 where the KW 12 used to be . I do get the bullseye from the 30 to the 8 . My only question is the distance between the 30 and 25 is 15 3/4 inches , the distance between the 25 and 16 is 17 inches . A static test showed that there was NO sharp
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+ 1 on Mikes comment .
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