Does anyone have a source of buying the X flocked shrink tubing in bulk? I'm growing tired of buying it by the foot. Everywhere I look, even the shrink tube websites sell everything by the foot or by the roll except for the flocked stuff. It's always by the foot, like they have a monopoly on it and they know it. Surely someone sells the stuff by the 100 ft.rolls.
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I did a ton a research and bought the Zebco Omega Z03, it hasn't twisted line or let me down yet. It was between the Abu top of line, the Daiwa Goldcast and the Z03. I can't remember why but I think the Goldcast didn't have anti reverse, tho it may have that now. Not that it matters, I could give a hoot about IAR now. Just another bearing to break. I think any of the "good ones" will wo
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I switched to Gen 4 as well. A little more working time and with the auto mixer, I have zero bubbles.
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David Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I don’t have any personal experience but Talon > Rods are known for their USA made long surf > blanks. They might have a model that suits you. Thank you for that tip. They didn't have what I was looking for but they manufacture rods for other companies that did have something that got my attention from T
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What they all said. The horizontal track was one of the main sell points for me. Everything slides under, you don't have to move things out of the way. Finishing is a breeze. I've only had mine for a few months but I can't imagine using anything else.
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Hunter Pegram Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Tommy Farmer’s Carolina Cast Pro Gen 2 blank. > 13’ 3-6oz. It’s a great rod. This is and the Gen 1 are the best ones I have seen on paper. I've had a few locals chime in on first hand experience over the weekend and I'm told the Gen 1 has a little more moderate action over the Gen 2. Whats your experience
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Mark Talmo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Fred, > You have a real DOOZY of a repair, actually a > rebuild of the blank itself!!! The first thing to > determine is if it is actually worth all the > effort only to discover your attempts do not work > in the end. Unless you are a > glutton-for-punishment, have too much time on your >
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Joseph Willsen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have nothing to offer regarding the warp but I > have had great success restoring the finish on > some Honey Lamiglas blanks from the early '70s > with a very light (400 grit) sanding and > permagloss. I did a honey Lami for myself back in January and it turned out beautiful, although there w
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In my short stint as a rod builder, the word is getting out that I can restore old surf rods and I am now on my forth surf rod restoration project. this one is a doozy. It's a 13 foot fiberglass Lamiglas, it's warped and it looks as if it was outdoors laying on it's side in the sun for a long time. The finish is gone on the side that faced the sun and the weave is exposed. We took it fishing to t
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Does any one know of a 13 ft MM surf rod that is out there that won't break the bank? Sub 200.00 is what I am looking for, but I'd like to know if anything is out there in that power/action. Closest I can find is the RodGeeks SRF130MHMF2, but it's a MHMF. Does anyone have any experience with this rod? It's stated 3-10 oz and I'm wondering how close that is. I have the SRF110MM2 and it's rated at
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I appreciate all the responses, you have given me some good ideas. I put a lot of thought into thread color, more than I knew I was going to.
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Terry Bain Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > As the old saying goes, "beauty is in the eye of > the beholder". What looks bad to you may look > great to me and vice versa. I would suggest you > to make a "color stick" with a dark colored blank > section with different color nylon threads and > NOCP threads, one with CP
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So far i have found that I like nylon threads without color preserver best. I'd like to also use nylon with color preserver but so far, I always end up with a tad of splotchyness that I can clearly see after the second coat before I even apply the epoxy. I really don't like the nocp threads, they just look like tape and are lifeless to me. So the question is, what nylon colors look good without C
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Joe Vanfossen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > Fred, that is a really interesting result that the > orientation of the spine does not matter in golf > clubs. The way a golf club loads, I would have > fully expected the orientation of the spine to > matter. It may well be that there is enough > inertia in the head of the club to p
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I used to build golf clubs and I had a spine finder, similar to the ones used for rods. Metal shafts had one spine and graphite shafts had two, one stronger and one weaker spine, just like rod blanks. In theory, we had choices of how we would install the shaft. We had four choices. 1. We could point the neutral side of the shaft towards the target, supposedly making easiest to hit a straight ball
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I've only had mine for a few weeks but I love it. The motor speed is perfect, the slip clutch works good and everything slides under your rod, you don't have to move anything around to get from one side of the rod to the other. I bought the whole shabang, extension and all to go over 12 ft. The only thing I really didn't like about it is the the thread carriage and the tension device. It seems to
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It's what I've been using on all of my surf rods. The only downside is I have to grind the feet, otherwise they are great guides.
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I received an email but it wasn't in my inbox, it was in the promotional box, I use gmail. Once I clicked on it I only had to choose a new password. All good except for losing my past orders. I have old emails for most of them. All good.
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I did the same thing the other day. I laid down white thread and then pearl epoxy, then the guides and final epoxy. Turned out pretty good. I only did it so the blank wouldn't show through though.
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ben belote Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- rod speed/recovery rate is important to me because i like the slower fiberglass and not the faster graphite rods. > Ditto.
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I talked to John Cates in depth about what I wanted and his Flex Coat DC-777 fit the bill. The rod wraps away from you, the rod holders are mounted horizontally so the thread carriage and finishing carriage slides under everything and the motor with foot pedal is just about right, as in very close to hand wrapping. the slip clutch is there if you need it, which you will. On top of it all, it is m
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Well, I just got my wrapper set up and I am going to kiss hand wrapping for the most part, good-bye. Although up to this point, my mind has enjoyed hand wrapping, I've gotten better and better and I am glad I started this way. However, my mind may like it but over the years from doing various things with my fingers work wise, they ache. I thought maybe over time my fingers would get used to the h
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > A fast action glass rod will have the same action > as a fast action graphite rod. They both initially > flex in the upper 1/3rd of their length. "Action" > is where the rod initially flexes. "Speed" is how > quickly a rod reacts and recovers. Other than the > CCS frequency m
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Phil, > > No, the terms you're using "slow" "medium" and > "fast" describe rod action (where the rod > initially flexes), not rod speed. These are two > different things. > > ............ Please enlighten me Tom. if medium action, medium fast action, f
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I've tried as well. I really wanted to be able to sell some of their surf rods but they won't even give me the time of day. They were high on my list that I wanted to sell for too, so I'm pretty bummed. They could at least tell me to get lost. I don't get any responses form Pac-Bay either. Keep us posted on your findings!
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I watched a video of a guy in England catch one. He caressed it and petted it like it was a grand prize, then he kissed it and sent "her" back into the pond. Over here they shoot them with arrows for fun, go figure. I have one in my pond in my back yard, about 10-12 pounds. I've been watching it for two years and I'm still thinking about ways to catch it, maybe with my surf rod. But I'm
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Fred, > When you wrap, do you use vision magnification? > > If not, do yourself a favor and purchase the > necessary items for 2x to 3x magnification for all > of your work. > I wear 3x glasses for wrapping. I damaged my left eye a couple years ago in a really bizarre way, and it was
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I've got one on back order, should be here any day so we shall see. If anything, I think it will help the finishing aspect of it. As far as hand wrapping, if it doesn't bother your wrist, you can get very efficient at it. Under wraps are a pain though. I think learning by hand is the way to go until you've mastered it, then add a wrapper down the road.
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I took apart a Lamiglas the other day for just that reason. I put black nylon thread on a black blank and I guess my eyes don't see like they use to and I have a really hard time laying down the epoxy. I went way too far out beyond the wraps ( I couldn't see where the thread stopped once I got just past it) and it just looked like slop. Its a Cadillac of a rod and the last thing I wanted was to s
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"I'm sure they noticed but didn't say anything . I sold a rod that I was a little worried about due to a wrap showing a tiny gap in the thread a few years back , It was extremely minor and you would have to really look hard . I bet they noticed but thought it was fine because nobody ever said anything to me about it ." Even more the reason to get it right.
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