Mike Ballard Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > 13' is too long for people. Huh? I think it depends on the person. I use everything between 11" and 13' 4" Just about all my friends use 13' rods. I certainty prefer the 13' rod.
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It's not that difficult to find the products that are made here in the USA. It is plainly and proudly advertised, especially in the rod/reel business. They pretty much shout it form the mountaintops when it is, and are quiet about if it is not.
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Thanks to all of you for your help. I am in the process of putting in some very bright directional lighting and I will also use magnifiers to aid myself. My shop is always changing into something better than it was!
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It was a great show and meeting the vendors face to face ,you get something you just can't do online or through email. Everything was well done and Kudos to Tom for making this happen year after year. I won't miss another one as long as I can help it! The wife and i really enjoyed the convention, the reception and the city!
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Heading out at noon today!
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I really think some people just don't like spinning reels and they will do whatever it takes NOT to use them. I am one of those people. Baitcasters can also be modified heavily, and even built from components, which I do and I feel I get the best out of the whole experience. Are they harder to cast? They sure are, but you have the ultimate control if you take the time. Those reels used for BFS ar
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Aaron, I think that is the direction I'm heading in and I appreciate your advice, I do understand what you are trying to convey, and your explanation is good. Roger, I make all my tag ends on the back side of my wraps already. I may just put my trim tag ends under the main wraps when i do use CP and stick to the nail knot when I am not using CP. I know it's more of technique more than anything.
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I have really taken some leaps and bounds when it comes to my wraps as of late. I've learned to hide the tag ends quite well and it really shows how well after the first coat of epoxy goes on and there are few, if any nubs to be cut off. I'm now trying to master the trim wraps. I've read all of the ways to do it and the main way seems to be to just incorporate it into the main wrap and let the ma
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I've booked my room!
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Tom, I thank you for all you have done. Had you or all the very nice and polite rod builders on this forum not been here to help me, sometimes answering the same ol' questions new builders ask, I would not be where I am today. I am only a member of two forums that have to do with fishing (the other has to do with reel repairing) and I have no time for cut downs or people making me feel inferior b
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Thank you, Tom. I am pretty excited about it.
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So, I booked my room for the ICRBE for the wife and myself and I am looking forward to meeting all of you who are going to the expo as well at the reception! My question is, what will I expect to find at this expo? I know there will be vendors and seminars, but, do the vendors bring a lot of inventory to sell? Is it a mixed bag of new items and older items that they are selling? I'm just curious
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Now I see it. Thank you, Bob.
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Tom, when does V25 #1 edition come out?
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I had that issue. It was very frustrating to say the least. I think it was my Fire Fox web browser. I opened up Google Chrome and then everything went through. That was on my last order and I haven't tried it again since. That is not the only thing wrong with the "new and improved website" but it's almost pointless going there. The old one was just fine. And better.
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Mark Talmo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If John from Flex Coat is still following this > topic, what is the melting point of the FC tip top > adhesive? I am guessing ~175* F. While Fred’s > hot melt material may be a fine product, it’s > 350* F melting point may be a bit high when > concerned with possible damage to the blank when >
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I use Bohning Ferr-L-Tite. It's used in the archery world to hot glue inserts and outserts on arrows so broad heads and field points can screw into them. It has a melting point of 350 degrees and I haven't had a tip-top come loose yet. I've always used this and I noticed in my local tackle store that's what they use also for their repairs to offshore rods, and they sell it too.
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Or, just move to Florida.
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I am aware of blanks made here in America but I am not aware of any components, like real seats and guides.
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I built my first rod from scratch. It started out out when I saw a blank in an old repair shop that looked like an ugly stick, about 8'6". I had a leg up because I had the blank in hand and could measure for the tip top, reel seat, figure out how many guides I needed. Still, without me finding THIS site first (thank you Tom) I would have been a little lost. I understand the kits. One can mak
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > > I have generally settled on 3 inch DW or Drain PVC > pipe which is thinwall. > The 3 inch size takes care of the larger guides > found on spinning reels, but will still work just > fine for casting rods. > That is a good way to ship. Cheaper too. Thanks Roger.
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If you are shipping just one or two every now and then, I'd use PCV. One alternative that I did quite a few times last year is the 10' vinyl downspouts form the big box home improvement stores. It's about (or was) $12.00 last time I used it and you just cut it down to size. It's some very light, tough stuff. I cut wood blocks and screwed them in for the end caps and then taped them.
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I've been using the American Tackle Delta Snagless guides and they have been working out well for me. Shoot me an email and I will give you the lowdown on the Carolina Cast Pro rods once I get them out to the beach! Good luck with your build!
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I use three, it lets me get a good lockdown of the > thread and still minimize wrap weight, this means > the wraps on each end of a doublefoot guide are > not the same length, but no one has complained. Back to the topic, not that this hasn't been an interesting and very entertaining thread. Also,
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I am familiar with the FST rods, or at least I've read up on them. I haven't tried one. Parabolic seems to be the key for those fish, and those rods can be hard to find these days. I've been experimenting with the RodGeeks SRF110MM2, so far I like it. I just finished a Thrasher 13'4" Whip, 1-6 oz old school composite that I am ready to take out. I also just got in a couple of Gen 2 Carolina
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Tyler Reinert Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thank you everyone for your great ideas! I'm going > to collect some supplies and see which one suits > my needs the best. Got my guide spacing figured > out by doing some test casts the other day and > figured out my color scheme for my guide wraps. > Going to be a great set up for pompano and
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Fred Zimmermann Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Here is a very informative thread from not too > > long ago. I learned more from this thread than > any > > other when it comes to spinning reels and surf > > rods. There are two different
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Here is a very informative thread from not too long ago. I learned more from this thread than any other when it comes to spinning reels and surf rods. There are two different ways to lay out your guides according to what type of line you will be using. Chris Nash goes over this and it is worth reading and re-reading until its understood.
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Josh Boege Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I guess I have thought about it enough. Just > ordered the DC777 from Get Bit. > > Thanks for the info John! You won't be sorry about buying it and John is a stand up guy to boot. I have one with the extension for 12+ ft rods and I love it.
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Perma Gloss is very cheap and it has always been very close to my epoxy as far as color match. It's about as clear as you can get.
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