To expand on the placement, I do my initial spacing without anything on the blank. I then add the grips and reel seat. I attach the reel I am going to use for the blank then adjust the guides to fit the reel more precisely. The spacing is usually pretty close to what I had initially but almost always some adjustments.
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If you are using braid, I would say anything over a 25 for the first guide is too much. If you are using mono, you may go up to a 40 if you are using a beefy spinning reel. Like Tom stated above, I normally do a build with a reel in mind and usually don't change out the reels so my setup is very specific. If I was to build a 'general purpose' rod, then I would go with the strongest and biggest
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I packed mine up way differently. First things first, the rods go in the truck last. I take similar size rods and place them together so that the guides point outwards. I then take packing tape and wrap them at top, mid and bottom. I do this for all my rods on multiple moves. Nothing got damaged. Difference here is that the rods were the last on and first off the truck..no way for them to g
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Herb..just thoughts at this point. I dont have the $$ to do any of this yet. Thinking of the MHX because it is cheaper but if i had the dough, would go for the Lami. I do have the reel. I have smaller reels but they don't have nearly as much line capacity. I just planned on using artificials up to 8 oz jigs. I don't plan on using bait really at all.
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If I remember correctly, in my initial start-up kit it had a list of ideal spacing for the rod blank I received. This was a CRB blank from Mudhole. That was the only time I used the spacing and didn't move because I just didn't know. Now I just go for the right feel of the spacing. Works for me.
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I have not. I would assume many replies here. My thought would be to have your base thread work laid down. Then add a thin layer of epoxy or CP. After that application is cured, then add your weave. This will help prevent any slippage of the weave into the base thread work.
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Thanks for the replies. I am thinking more than likely I will use the Salt Striker SS 50 that I have tor the surf rod. It is a fairly beefy reel. I started to put things in my mudhole wishlist for this build, and its already over $200. I am leaning towards the microwave guides because I want a light rod that I can throw lead with all day. I don't want to use double foot guides if I can avoid
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The static load will allow you to modify the placement of your guides. Like stated above, an unnatural bend in a blank wlll occur if you place the guides incorrectly. I like to take a piece of mono, tape it at the butt, affix guides on the blank with rubber bands and feed the mono through the guides. I then pull on the mono to see how the bend is. If the guides are off, you will see it immedi
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Roger...I think you misread, it is big enough for my hand wrapper. I have a lot of stuff on the bench so it is crowded that way but functions just fine.
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It will be my first surf rod so Im looking at all possible builds. I also haven't used shrink tubing either. I figured using eva wouldn't be the best approach but I just don't know for sure. I would like to use cork grips but that could get quite expensive finding grips long enough for a surf rod. Also have not used Fuji KL-Hs either, so lots of firsts.
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I may try threadmaster again as I have gotten better with applying my finish. The first time I tried it, I felt like I was working against the clock. The end result was not too good. I find that I now like to have a thinner epoxy and apply multiple coats. Using a thicker epoxy might be great for a single pass but also is easy to put on too much finish resulting in footballs.
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I like using the tester model paint as well. It combines well with the epoxy and gives a nice bright color. I have also used the CRB marbling pigments with the same results as testers. If you don't want the nasty smell, go with the marbling pigments.
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I have limited space so I got a workbench from Home Depot. It is fully assembled and has a shelf underneath. Its roughly 8' long and about 3' deep. I would love to have something at least double the size if I had more space to put it. It functions fine with my hand wrapper. It is too small to use for a power wrapper.
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Thanks Phil, forgot about the shock leader knots. The microwave guids are substantially smaller than a normal guide I would use. My shock leader knots do tend to be on the bigger side as well.
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Ill look into the carbon grips. I also just read up on cork tape. I think that might be the direction Ill take. I think that will probably be my lightest weight option.
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Im thinking of attempting my first surf rod build over the winter. I would like to possibly use a different type of grip such as the wraps for the fore grip and rear grip. I think I saw that Wynn has grips via mudhole for this. Would using the microwave guides a good option for the surf? Looking to make the lightest possible build. Thinking about a 2 piece 10' MH mhx blank. Anything I
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I like to have it setup so I wrap away from me. This gives me the ability to see the space between wraps before it gets completed on the rod. I also use a wire as my tension device. Its not much tension but enough for how I wrap. I also like to wrap from left to right. I tried to wrap from right to left going down the guidefoot, just seemed odd to me.
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I guess im on the opposite side. I tend to like prokote more. I like the idea of letting my rod spin for several hours, at least 12, to get the right cure of the epoxy. I don't like the idea of a fast curing time just in case it might start curing while im applying the epoxy to the rod. Everyone has their preference, that's mine :)
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If you are using eva, then I would go with a grip that has a 3/8" ID. You can bore out the middle if you wish. I normally will just put the glue material on the blank and twist/push the grip down until the desired spot.
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A 32# striper caught on 2# line? Now that is an accomplishment! I have seen many people in Pulaski NY catch massive salmon on noodle rods. You wouldn't think it would work at first glance but they do. Probably more difficult to land with all the people in the river but fun nonetheless.
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Billy..when you say 'right down the street', is his shop a couple blocks away in the small shopping center? Im not super familiar with the area but I know how to get to the headboats in Brielle and Pt Pleasant.
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I agree with that. I have been to lakes all too often seeing the newbie angler using his Walmart rod with the tags still on it. The best is seeing someone using a spinning rod upside down! I have seen that too many times to count especially on head boats. My focused fishing is stripers/blues. I have enough diamond jigs and soft plastics to kill a horse but I know how to use em all!
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I was thinking of hitting up some of the flea markets over the winter-time months. Been in Julians, not much that I saw..like you said, hit or miss it seems. The only consistent place Ive been to is Bogan's tackle where they have another room of just rod building stuff. Last I was there, they said to stop over at Fish Poison (Kevin Bogan's place). Didn't get a chance as I was boarding a headb
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Thx Rich. Bogan's was the one I referring to that I know of. I seen some rod blanks in the shops on the way to the Highlands but not much more than that.
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I normally only order by rod building supplies online through the vendor list to the left. I would like to check out a shop in northern NJ when I go to the Highlands to jump on a striper headboat. I have not seen many options in that area. I know there are some further south (Brielle NJ) but Im not aware of any north of there. Anyone?
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I put way to much pressure on it by tightening down the thread spool too much. I ended up just using some 50lb rigging wire I have. Works great!
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John..been on the Chesapeake in a strong southerly wind..snotty is an understatement especially Kipotepeak(?) down towards the bridge.
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I recently had an issue with my CRB wrapper where I put too much tension on the 'stick' and it snapped at the placement in the wrapper. I want to get a new one, but don't want to put in an order to mudhole for $3. I will eventually get one when I order next, but looking for a quick fix. Anyone aware of where I can get something to replace the piece? URL of said piece:
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I have since finished up the butt section, it came out pretty good. I ended up applying 2 coats, sand, then apply 2 more coats. Its not perfect but no visible waves and looks pretty solid. Best Ive done thus far. I just put on the underwraps for all the guides. I added the wraps, put on CP then a thin layer of epoxy over each. Next is to prep the guides then star wrapping them.
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That's the first I heard of someone adding pro-kote to the whole rod. I would think perma gloss might not be a bad idea as a finishing touch for a saltwater rod.
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