Edward, My way of thinking concerns the fact that glue = dries while epoxy = cures. To dry, glues need open air to allow the solvents and/or water to evaporate. Due to the evaporation / loss of solvent/water from the glue, it has a tendency to shrink. If the material being glued does not allow the solvents/water to evaporate properly, the dry time could be greatly extended if not indefinitely; t
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Thanks for the replies Michael S., Michael D. and Roger.
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Considering spinning rods, if line-slap on the blank is a negative and “rapid-choke” is a positive, could an appropriately positioned, offset, nonconcentric, seat and grip enhance a (reduction) guide train? Such could move the heavier guides of the reduction train closer to the reel while possibly only needing to add one more lighter running guide further up the blank. Am I inhaling the wrong (po
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Michael, I am more than glad to have helped and thanks for the thanks. Sometimes we can all be guilty of not being able to see the forest through the trees; I know it is certainly possible for me.
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John, Your point on smaller ceramic rings is well received and accepted. If you /anyone experience grooving problems with SiC, then there are much more emanate issues with which to deal and solve.
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Ed, We will have to see what materializes this time around on the topic; I am certainly interested!
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Thanks for the reply, John. It is safe to say most would agree that the tip top will be more susceptible to punishment from the line (and what’s in the water) than any of the guides. After reading your and the other two statements on utilizing SiC for your tip tops, I looked at the Fuji MN Alconite tip top on my Calico rod (with a minimum of 400 hours of nearshore fishing on it) under the best ma
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Michael, Apparently you and I are alike in that we can make things more difficult or involved than need-be. We are also, apparently, perfectionists and I think I understand your goal of hiding the joint of the ferrule. Allow me to offer a suggestion which I have used on loose-fitting spigot ferrules although others may disapprove, even rightfully so, but it gets the job done quickly and can be
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John, Michael and Lance, Is Fuji’s SiC that much better than Alconite?
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Tom, Excuse me, that should have been “commendments”, “not commandments”. Dang spell check. lol
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Tom, Congratulations and commandments plus a simple yet huge THANK YOU!!!!!!!
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David, All of the above are excellent replies and correct. Allow me to offer advice with mixing to you and those who may be unaware. The 2-part epoxies we use are DIFFERENT than 2-part Polyester resin (aka fiberglass resin); while the ratio of MEKP hardener for FG resin can be altered to achieve a shorter or longer pot life, it is critical that epoxy ratios are kept to the specified ratio design
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First of all, my post was to commend Pete Holloway on his informative article in RodMaker magazine, which I intend to attempt to combine with mine for my next spiral wrap. Ed, yes I have offered my method on this site a few times. Basically, I use tiny rubber bands to temporarily mount the guides in a progressive spacing, rotating the butt guide to ~ 30* and the next one ~120*, mount the reel, t
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I was intrigued with Pete Holloway’s “Easy Spiral System” article in the last issue of RodMaker magazine. While I have developed my own method of producing spiral-wrapped rods which work extremely well, somewhere between the simple spiral and the 0-60-120-180 systems (but NEVER a 90* bumper), utilizing the actual blank under load to determine the rotational positions of the transition guides seem
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Michael, You are welcome. Sorry for the partially correct information in the first post.
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Michael, Allow me to correct myself. I checked with a friend who runs a fairly large anodizing shop regarding custom anodize colors. He informed me that while most shops only offer a single shade of each color, he can match just about any shade of color = I was only partially correct with my earlier statement. While it is possible to match the shade of green you are looking for, a minimum charge
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Michael, You probably will not find a dark green anodized color. If you look at the different anodized colors from different vendors and even different anodizing facilities, all the limited colors are virtually identical. Producing an anodized color is much more involved than simply mixing different pigments as with paint. I personally do not care for winding checks, so I make my own “fillet” u
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Mel, Use U-40 PermaGloss just once and your wife will never complain about spar varnish again. lol
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Gary, Happy birthday! You have well-served and helped to shape our industry. Your name is already in the history books and will remain there indefinitely. Thank you for all you have done and continue to do!
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Billy, Personally, I do not use one but others do and I can understand how it could be convenient. If I were to purchase one, I would look for the heaviest one so it does not move on the bench without permanently mounting it.
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Michael, Excuse me for being off-topic, but where did you find and what make and model is your 7-piece, 8ft fly blank? While there are many who consider a fly blank too sloppy for a spin rod, I would be all over it like flies on a meadow muffin!!!
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Todd, Congratulations on creating a post followed and responded by so many people. However, it must be disqualified from possibly being the highest number of views and posts due to how many posts were not directed at the original question. lol
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Jerme, Herb is correct to be cautious, PG contains Xylene which is nasty stuff!!! Do not get it on your skin (let alone in your eyes) and use it in a well ventilated area. All of Norman’s comments are very good ones but allow me to ad that I have found the small, round, 1/4in thick, fine-cell foam cosmetic pads work awesome; punching a hole in the center about the average diameter of the blank
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Lynn, I will be the last to argue that point!
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Robert, I have been purchasing self-sealing bottle stoppers for quite a while now simply because they work so well. Flex Coat is the first brand I have found which includes them with their epoxy kits = very nice indeed! Apparently and unfortunately, they experienced supplier restraints but have recognized and responded to it in admirable fashion; I wonder how many (doubt) other businesses would
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Ed, Thank you for the reply and confirmation I am not missing something. While trimming a “Yorker?” cap to fit the syringe may get one by, I have become spoiled with the self-sealing stoppers which work flawlessly. Spencer, Thank you for your input as well. I employ pumps for my structural epoxy dispensing (by weight) but personally find the syringes better adapted/suited to the small thread f
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As many of you have already tried, and I suggest newbies consider, I have been trying the majority of different thread finishes to discover which one appeals, works the best, for my own personal preferences. Funny thing is one of the most prevalent, Flex Coat, is one of the last I have tried. I have stated before that most of these finishes are variations on the same theme; the more different bra
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1,250 views, 100 posts, 5 pages!!! Must be some kind of record!!!
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Michael, The best bond between multiple coats is a chemical bond which is achieved by applying the second coat as soon as the first is set-up enough to not move (say 6-10 hours) but still not cured. Since most of our epoxies require a few days (3-7) to fully cure, Tom is correct with his suggestion of within 3-4 days. However, I also agree with Roger’s statement “a month or two” as long as no
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Todd, Your last post is precisely what I was attempting to say.
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