The vendors would use it if there was a benefit. Again, which vendors are benefitting from employing your scale?
Forum: rodboard

Mychael, This is a re-write due to the site not recognizing fractions: Other than vintage agate or shock-ring guides, commonly available present guides offer enough choices to closely match those of most rods to be repaired; maybe not perfectly but usually close enough. If the owner complains that the guide is not a perfect match, tell him he should have been more careful with the rod in the fi
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Tom, Granted your cork grading scale is more accurate and offers “photographic and percent clarity standard behind it”. But no matter how good it may be or it’s intentions, it is doomed to failure if not universally accepted and applied. So which cork vendors actually employ your grading scale? I appreciate your scale and would seriously consider using a vendor who employs it.
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Mychael, Other than vintage agate or shock-ring guides, commonly available present guides offer enough choices to closely match those of most rods to be repaired; maybe not perfectly but usually close enough. If the owner complains that the guide is not a perfect match, tell him he should have been more careful with the rod in the first place lol; beggars-can't-be-choosers! You can’t make chick
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Phil, Seek the data yourself rather than relying on or expecting others to do it for you. Give us all a break!
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Those of us in the machining industry just keep bulgering along. It is ultimately a shame, though.
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Ultimately, the metric system of measurements is MUCH easier than our imperial system. The metric system is a “base 10” method to measure; 1-10, 10-100, 100-1000 and so on. Our system is a jumbled mess, 16oz = 1lb, 16 fl oz = 1 pint, 128 fl oz = 1 gallon, 12 inches = 1 foot, 3ft = 1yard, 5280ft (now there is a nice round number) = 1mile; all cause for confusion and difficulty in computing. But th
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Herb, Yet another good idea; I wouldn’t expect anything less from you. Thanks for sharing. I much prefer the posts with positive information and learning that this site has to offer rather than the pot-stirring posts. I am here to learn.
Forum: rodboard

Stephen, While rod building kits may not be for everyone, they can serve a very useful purpose for many others. While my first rod build was not a kit, I blindly consulted my long-time tackle store owner for advice and purchased the guides, reel seat, thread, epoxy and everything else from him. It turned-out OK, but it is certainly a bit “dumpy” to what I build now = to be expected / practice ma
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Jim, Whether a brain storm or brain flatulence, test, test, and test again. It is not so much about strength, or even the look, but more about it the thread coating (epoxy, PG, or whatever) is compatible with the thread. Purpose-designed rod wrapping thread will accept rod wrapping finish but other threads MAY contain lubricants, as others have mentioned.
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Mychael, Wrapping direction is basically personal preference and once one gets accustomed to wrapping in a certain direction, it is very difficult to change. Your hand wrapping set-up should be fairly easy to set-up for either direction = try out both of them. I prefer wrapping from low and infront to over the top and back. It just seems more natural and precise when adding and dropping threads
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Mickey, A tip top with the same size ring as the preceding runners is preferred, but not paramount; larger or smaller is not a big consequence. Assuming a defective tip top is removed without damage to the blank, the same size ring AND tube can be reinstalled. If the tip top of the blank was broken-off or initially installed with epoxy and not easily removable without damage to the blank, then o
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Richard, Thankfully, you were not offended by me down-playing your single line static test in favor of the 2-line method. Others may have considered it insubordinate. You obviously keep an open-mind and accept and implement new ideas, even if different than what you have been doing for years. Unfortunately, for them, many others do not. I have only been building rods for 6+ years and learned of
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Thanks, Phil. I am unfamiliar with the Tenkara rods but will investigate.
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Chris, Thanks for taking the time to reply. As with other telescoping rods (no blanks yet) I have investigated, the Shakespeare is not quite what I’m looking for; close but no cigar. You are probably correct that such a rod will probably be FG rather than CF, which is certainly fine with me. Besides the diameter issue you mentioned, a blank of this sort will probably need to have a rather steep
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Chris, There is no need for me to continue because Norman has said it all. He is the KRC Guru ( and Jim Ising of course) and also my mentor, so I would just be repeating what he said. Thanks for saving my fingers, Norman!!! I build all my ULs using the 16H, 8H, 5.5M reduction guides. Although a bit unorthodox, I use as many KBs as the diameter of the blank will allow because of their stouter foo
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David, As Kent mentioned, PVC is hard to beat for shipping delicate fishing rods / blanks; it is quite durable, fairly inexpensive, moisture resistant and reusable albeit can be rather heavy depending on the schedule. We are already paying premium shipping prices for such long packages so the lighter = the better, within reason of course. For whatever reason, I can only get sch-40 here in CA whi
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Sorry, I missed this was a centerpin reel.
Forum: rodboard

Phil, Thanks for the reply. I am totally aware of the limits of a telescoping blank / rod, guide spacing in particular, hence my original comment “I can only assume there is a whole lot of compromising going on with a telescoping rod / blank…” It is a compromise I may be willing to accept given the other possible attributes of a telescoping rod. But I have worn-out my fingers and keyboard condom
Forum: rodboard

Joe, To accurately answer your questions, more information is required; casting or spinning reel, reel size, type (braid, mono, fluoro) and size of intended line. Any “guide spacing chart” will rarely be the optimum positions and should ONLY be used as a reference / starting-point. A 2-line static load test of the blank for guide placement is easy to perform and will provide the precise location
Forum: rodboard

Is there a UL to Light, 6-7ft telescoping rod available out there in which, when deployed, offers proper guide spacing when performing a static load test? Actually, being a rod builder, I am more interested in finding a proper telescoping BLANK, but could replace the guides with my preference on a pre-made rod. I can only assume there is a whole lot of compromising going on with a telescoping rod
Forum: rodboard

One can always be confident to employ Jim’s knowledge and suggestions.
Forum: rodboard

Richard basically offered good advice, especially “guide spacing charts can only be used as a starting point”. MicroWave guides vs Fuji KR Concept will remain a hotly-contested debate; in the end, they both work; Richard likes MW, I prefer KRC. With all due respect to Richard, his single-line static load test for guide placement is not as accurate, if not misleading, compared to the two-line sta
Forum: rodboard

To further justify employing ferrule reinforcement wraps, consider the “weave” pattern of virtually all rods, be they CF, FG or even natural bamboo. As much as 95% of the fibers are unidirectional along the axis of the blank to achieve the greatest amount of stiffness for the least amount of weight. This leaves a minimum of fibers encircling the blank to afford the required hoop strength to hold
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Michael, I was referring to (taper) boring a grip with a boring bar on a metal lathe, not a typical tapered rod building reamer. You are either luckier than me or spend more money on your cork, arbors or bushings. I have had a number of them which were not concentric. Again, it all really boils-down to reaming slowly and checking often.
Forum: rodboard

Chris, 2X Aaron’s reply. You will undoubtedly have more questions and there are many members willing to help you; all you have to do is ask. There is no such thing as a dumb question, only dumb ignorance.
Forum: rodboard

Seth, Building inventory for a rod BUILDING business probably requires much less money and parts as compared to a rod REPAIR business. Rod builders know beforehand what parts will be needed whereas rod repair requires a vast array of parts to match existing rods. All I can suggest is to keep track of which components you use the most and order accordingly; even so, it is still kind of a crap-sho
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Adam, The debate will continue if the female side of a spigot or TOB ferrule requires thread reinforcement or not. Some builders say yes, others no; some blank manufactures say yes, others no. One has more to gain than lose. With the weight penalty being rather insignificant, I feel it is good insurance to avoid blank split-out and it is immediately obvious that extra care was taken by the build
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Christian, As I suspect most others would, I agree with Tom. Luckily for you the scratches are near the butt of the rod and not out toward the tip where the weight and stiffness penalty would be much greater.
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Ladd, Are you still with us?
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