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Current Page: 5 of 7
Results 121 - 150 of 196
7 years ago
John Wright
I think Dale Clements did something similar in his Advanced Custom Rod Building book. Or maybe his book on thread art. I thnk there is something similar if you do a google search on cross wraps. I think I ran across something like it a year or so ago when researching cross wrap articles with Google.
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
John Wright
In the recent RodMaker Magazine there is an article about "Contrast" by I believe Tom Kirkman. My question concerns the thin sections shown in fig 4 and fig B. Actually two questions, first what material is used for the thin contrast insert, and where can I purchase it. The second question is how do you work it. I have tried using thin plastic (party stores and grocery stores ca
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
John Wright
Tom, Thank you, found it at Grainger.
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
John Wright
Spencer, Thank you.
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
John Wright
Just got around to reading my latest issue of RodMaker. Tom's article on inlays using metal powder is amazing. Just what I have been looking for. I have used aluminum and brass in the past for inlays, but this is a whole new approach and one I am anxious to try. I am also wondering if you couldn't do the same thing with powdered plastic? Of course how to get powdered plastic is a question.
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
John Wright
Sounds like a plan. What time zone 6:30? Eastern, Central, Mountain, or Pacific? Thanks.
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
John Wright
Has anyone made handles from cork and eva foam? I think it should work OK, but was wondering what glue to use and how to turn with the different densities.
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
John Wright
Why not download @#$%&. It is now free and will convert .bmp images to left lists and graphed images.
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
John Wright
Jerry Poindexter Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I like em, John! Finding the thread slots has > always been an issue for me. Jerry, So far they work great. Makes weaving much easier.
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
John Wright
Not to difficult. Heat the epoxy then gently and carefully slice it with an xacto knife or razor blade. The epoxy should now just peal off. Then just cut the wrappings off if they aren't already off. Good luck and good fishing.
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
John Wright
phil ayers Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Where do you get this book? Phil Beleive I got mine at Amazon. But just do a Google search, and you should get several hits. John
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
John Wright
If you use a lighter but hold it on top of the guide instead of below the guide and don't let the flame touch the rod or guide, you can heat it up enough without worry about soot and it will come loose enough to simply twist it to the proper position. A word of caution, the guide will get hot so be careful, I speak from experience.
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
John Wright
roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > I also do leave the thread in the same place and > move the rod past the thread, so I have no reason > or need to move the thread spool when wrapping. > > Be safe Roger, Do you use a power wrapper? With my power wrapper I have to move the thread holder since I can't move the rod.
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
John Wright
Do we have to use Liberty? I don't see any fly rod blanks.
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
John Wright
Ditto John's comment. It really will not matter, the motor will run with either configuration.
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
John Wright
I have looked at a lot of weaving looms and even purchased one from Mudhole. None seemed to fit my needs. So I began to consider what was it that these others didn't do for me. The first thing I came up with is they are all difficult to see the exact place to insert the individual threads. After thinking about it for a while, I hit upon using the same principal I use to make fly boxes. Inste
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
John Wright
Thank you. I was thinking about that diameter. I am trying to build a clone, and at 4 nches using two degree increments, that puts the thread lines less than .1 inches apart. That is a little difficult to cut. At 6" the lines are .1 inch and are easier to handle. But 6" in diameter is pretty large. I may have to develop a better way to cut the thread holder. Thanks. John
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
John Wright
Anyone own a Wonder Weaver? I was wondering what the diameter of the wheels are. They look to be about 6"? Thanks.
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
John Wright
Sheridan Stanton Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I use the cheapest masking tape I can find, cut a > dozen small pieces and stick them all over the > machine so they're handy. Mostly use 2 foot guides > so it works pretty well. Any residue is between > the under and over wrap.The store brands at the > big box stores seem to stick better th
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
John Wright
Ok, Here is what I have found so far. I found some cobs in a field from last falls harvest. Cleaned them well then soaked in a rit dye overnight. Rinsed with cold water the next day and let dry for a good 24 hours. Then into a bath of Minwax wood hardener. Again a good 24 hours. Let it dry for two days, then put it on the lathe. It initially turned really well. But as I turned it, I fo
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
John Wright
What about super glue or hot glue to hold them in place? A friend of mine who used to run a fly shop uses that technique all the time and it seems to work pretty well? Ideas?
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
John Wright
Spencer, Let me know how the dye works out. I have a few scrap rings in a red rit dye right now testing them.
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
John Wright
Thanks, I missed the part in the videos where they ran it through a round squeegee. That would make sense. Guess spray painting, thin coats and Permagloss is the way to go. Has anyone tried spraying Permagloss?
Forum: rodboard
8 years ago
John Wright
I just finished the older thread. Has anyone tried "dipping" the rod? I know most big companies dip paint things and I have used that technique on many items that I build. I was thinking of making a small dip tank from PVC pipe (1 1/2" by about 4') to use as a dip tank. That would take about 1 1/2 quarts of paint. Do the same thing for clear coat. Think I'll do some testing o
Forum: rodboard
8 years ago
John Wright
From the videos I have watched on how companies like G-Loomis and others paint their rods, they don't spray they dip them. Has anyone tried that? I was thinking of building a dipping tank out of 1 1/2" PVC pipe (sealed at the bottom of course). Then dip the rod sections open end to the bottom. Same process with the final coat of clear. Any thoughts?
Forum: rodboard
8 years ago
John Wright
Ok, I will give these excellent ideas all a try on my next rod. Many thanks.
Forum: rodboard
8 years ago
John Wright
Ok, I will give these excellent ideas all a try on my next rod. Many thanks.
Forum: rodboard
8 years ago
John Wright
I looked at the site and found the rod blank section but could not find any Bushido fly rod blanks. Where are they listed? Thanks.
Forum: rodboard
8 years ago
John Wright
I have tried using metallic from ProWrap. I found it broke a lot, and had a tendency to unwrap after pull through, but did look really nice when complete. The folks at Mudhole don't recommend using it as the main wrap but as trim only. At least that's what I was told. Just my two cents.
Forum: rodboard
8 years ago
John Wright
I always have problems finishing the chevron wrap. I haven't found a technique that lets me cleanly wrap the multitude of threads in a nice smooth wrap. I invariably get spaces in the wrap or "bumps" in the finish. The approach I have been using is to start the tie down wrap then remove the tape. Cut the threads at an angle and complete the rap. But it never looks nice and clean w
Forum: rodboard
Current Page: 5 of 7

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