Jim and Larry, First, Larry thanks for the words of encouragement. I started building when in grad school back in '75, so guess its been about 40+ years now. A lot has changed in that time and weaving is one of them. I actually did my first weave, a simple set of initials on a rod in '81. No looms or anything like that, used the discussion on weaving in Clemens book. But this level of wea
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Jim, Thanks for the information. I think that is what I have been doing wrong. Not making sure the threads were free before moving them across. John
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I finished my second weave and thought a summary of lessons learned might be of use to other novice weavers. I had to redo each weave at least 2 times (4 for the first) before I got one that I felt was acceptable. Here are some of the things I did that caused problems or I found helpful. 1. Lost concentration. On more than one occasion I missed a thread. So I would get several columns int
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Thanks to everyone for all your wisdom and advice. John
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Finished the second weave today. I'll take photos tomorrow. On problem I did have that I can't figure out how to solve. The second weave was a two color weave as well, just like the first one I did. But after I had the two layers of thread secured, I began the wrap thread and the upper and lower layers mixed and both layers split and left an open area in the center. I removed the wrap thread
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I have read a lot of threads about shelf life of Pro Kote. Most discuss color changes. I have some that has been sitting on the shelf for about a year or so. It mixes fine, nice and clear after I warm both up in hot water. But when I apply it, it goes on lumpy. By that I mean, as I apply it with a brush and work it down the blank, the brush pushes epoxy in a little lump for lack of a better
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Thank you everyone. All good suggestions. I am leaning toward the split grip approach myself. Thank you Roger for you instructions. As usual very informative. I look forward to the build, and the fishing trip.
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Hmmm, Cox is having some difficulties, not sure why, but I was able to access the site. However, I wasn't able to fine the Hot Shot recommendation. The Rainshadow looks good however.
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Thank you. Apparently their site is down. My service can't seem to find it. I'll try again later.
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Just got an invitation to go Walleye fishing this June. I haven't used anything but fly rods for fishing for years, but I will be fishing leaches on a slip bobber from a boat, so need to build a rod. From what I have read, a 7' - 7'6" rod should do. I think light to medium power and moderate to fast action is what I'm looking for but I'm open to suggestions. I have looked at Mudhole (my
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I have a power wrapper that I built from an old sewing machine motor. It works really well when I use it, but to be honest, I still wrap most of my rods by hand. I don't make that many, maybe 10 or 12 a year, but hand wrapping to me is like using hand tools to make furniture. It gives me the feel of the work piece. But that's just me and I am pretty old. :-)
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From purely practical... I agree. Throw back to my teaching days I guess.
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Chuck, Yep for sure. I am already looking into my next weave. Oh where will it end? :-)
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I've built several carriers and have one in design right now. I use wire I bought on line. Its a spring type wire. Pretty much the same procedure Steve discussed. My carriers are made from wood so I drill a hole in the top of the piece holding the thread tension device and super glue it in place. I have one I've been using for about 3 years now and never broken the wire. I have some photos
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Just my two cents. I've built and continue to build a lot of rods without using the CSS. I have used it in the past to determine the weight of a fly rod blank someone had given me without any information. It gave me a very accurate reading on what weight fly line the rod was designed to throw. Most of the time I rely on the manufacturer's rating to built the rod. I am partial to fly rods an
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Finished this afternoon Here are a few photos. I need to pack and tighten. Some flaws, but I think it will be OK.
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Chuck, I agree with your comments. I use carpet tape on the left to set up the loom on the right. I also found that slight pulls to the right do have a big affect on the weaving. I started the 4th weave today and it is already looking much better. But I did re-do the design and increase the size so I have more detail Should have it pretty much in had tomorrow, so time will tell. I'll p
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Ok, I finished today, or at least if completed the pattern. I am not happy with it so have started over for the 4th time. Here are some pictures of what I finished with. Here is what I ultimately want to finish up with. I think I need to keep my wraps tighter to the design threads and be a little more patient. So I start again tomorrow, as I said previously failure leads
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Well, I'll put in my two cents. I build my own as a lot of us do. the thread tension device I have found works best for me is made from two rare earth magnets placed next to each other with same poles facing. That way as I tighten the wing nut it pushes the magnets closer together and the force on the thread increases. I could give you the equation that lets me calculate the force, but pro
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Chuck McIntyre Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > John > That's a drag to hear. But that's the spirit of > sharing questions and answers here. :) It still > might be fixable so don't add finish before you > post a pic. You just might get some more helpful > feedback. Chuck I understand and appreciate the spirit. The fact that it isn't tur
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Chuck McIntyre Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > John,don't forget to post a pic of it. I can't > wait to see it. Chuck, I will. But from what I am seeing so far, its not coming out the way I expected. But I'll post pictures and discuss the problems I had. Maybe it will help another new weaver. John
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Jerry Poindexter Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > y%20Doc%20Ski.pdf Jerry, Thanks, that's the one I remember. John
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I know I have seen either a video or article on packing and tightening a weave, but I have been unable to locate it. If anyone knows where this is, please post a link. Thanks. John
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Mark Talmo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > My hat is off to you guys, you’re much better > than me. Attempting to do a weave might possibly > overload my decrepit brain cells. Mark, well it has overloaded my brain this week. First the problem with the tape that started this whole thread. Now after two false starts where I got the first 20 or so c
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Chuck, Spent the afternoon re-doing the wrap. I used carpet tape and it worked fine. I also took your advice and moved the threads to the center and split in half on the loom. It does work much better. Should have it at least half done tomorrow. Many thanks. John
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Chuck McIntyre Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > John,I am basing what I say after seeing your > picture of your setup. You may find things easier > if you don't literally go by the direct numbering > on your looms. By that,I mean if you centered the > threads more, it could prove easier altogether. > The way you have your threads laid out,
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Jim Upton Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Using tape to hold your design threads is an > exercise in frustration. If you have the jigs use > them? Of course, experience is a great teacher, > so I'm sure when you are through you will gained > that and will know "from experience" why we don't > use the that method anymore. The car
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If you are looking for color, why not make your own. I use HDPE plastic, melt and form into 1" blanks. Then turn like wood. I use milk cartons, bleach containers, fabric softener bottles, etc. Oil cans are good to as are many other containters. Just look for the HDPE on the bottom in a triangle. Lots of Youtube videos on just how to melt it and make things from the resultant blank.
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I just started my first weave and I am having a terrible time getting the design threads to stick to the masking tape. I have been trying the Doc Ski method, and the thread will just not stick to the tape. I use Madeira Polyneon as Doc does, so what is the trick. Very frustrating to have this kind of an issue before I can even start the weave. So is there a trick or a special brand of maski
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Tom, Thank you. I never thought about playing cards. Very thin for sure. John
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