I take rubberized cork down to about 3/16" to a 1/8" in thickness to give my fore grips on some rods a truly custom look. The rubberized cork is a much tougher and does not have the voids or flaws of natural cork. You can also go down fairly thin with burl rings.
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Keith Langford Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The rod I just built is working great and i really > like it so far with the limited use, when I built > this I used a KT 10 and after that 3 KB 5 for the > 60, 120 180 positions and KT 5 for the rest of the > guides. My question is would it perform better if > I used a KT 5.5 for the 60 degre
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Its all about feel and quality. What I used to think was a great feeling rod 20-30 years ago does not feel as good to me as the ones I make now. The technology is going to change but the feeling is still going to be important even if that changes. Great post.
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I use a 5 minute high viscosity (thin) epoxy to glue my rings up with. Never had any problems with water or separation. After a couple of hours you can start turning. I also turn on the highest speed of my lathe and use a medium course bastard file with a flat side and a half round on the other side to shape with. When I get it close I use 100 grit sandpaper to bring it closer, then 225 grit and
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I would go with Fuji KL-H but I don't think the Micro Wave set would be bad either. The Micro Wave sets work very good and are easier to set up. I do know of some test that were done of the two different guide set ups on the same blank, real seat and grips. The Fuji set up cast slightly farther on average by about 3' to 6', that in my opinion, is not enough to mater. It was 100 cast of each with
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And. I guess you want to know if that would be good. What fish are you going after?
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I believe for a long surf rod it would not hurt but it is not necessary. On the guide feet you may need to file or sand down the tips to make an easy ramp for the thread to move up to. As Michael said with the wraps; you can also do 4 or 5 up the foot past the transition and slide them back. I do this all the time to get the thread in the right place without bunching up.
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I would not cut more than 4" of the butt. You will loose some weight because the butt is the heaviest part of the blank. If you are trying to get it to the 1.52 oz then most likely about 2" would be enough. When you trim a blank it will slow the action down but it does not necessarily make it a bad thing. I believe a slower blank is better for lines like braid that do not stretch as muc
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What kind of rod are you building (spinning-baitcaster) and what kind of fish do you plan on catching? Will it be used in saltwater also?
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X2 with Norman. Can't do it much better than that.
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Make sure you put masking tape around the blank where it is going to be cut, that way it won't splinter. You can cut it with just about anything then, including a hacksaw. I usually use a Dremel with a diamond cutting wheel. Was going to get what Roger is using but just didn't get around to it.
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This rod is about 65 years old and if in very good condition could most likely get about $300. If degraded with a missing guide or two and wrapping coming apart, about $75. Good luck.
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > For myself, If using a ferrule and making a 2 > piece rod and wishing for the shortest overall > length, the answer is simple. > Put the ferrule in the dead center of the rod > blank and then you will have the shortest two > piece rod that you can have because each 1/2 will > be equal to t
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Roger is spot on and has all the coolest wrapping equipment. I do a lot of micro guide rods and have done many with D size, I do prefer the A size because I can get a few more wraps with it and it makes a smaller locking wrap. I have tried head mounted magnifiers but they are a little uncomfortable for me so I have a couple of the lighted round lens type mounted on either end of my work table.
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Just tell me what you want the rod to do and how it will be used. I can usually figure out the rest. Most of my customers don't know jack about components but know brand names and how this brand and model performed for them. We go from there. I used to shape surfboards but the only problem with a fishing rod is that you can not shape the "magic" into it. It is much easier, just put the
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David, I personally think you will like the NFC blanks and because of the discount given they are half the price of a Sage in the equivalent model. Lance
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Cool.
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I live on the central Gulf coast of Texas and fish all the bay systems. I personally use a 6'9" medium light power and fast action rod that can cast 1/8 oz plastics to a Top Dog (or a Zara Spook). The Fat boys are somewhere in between that. My preferred blank is a North Fork Composites (NFC) P 703-1 (HM/LMX). It is a 7' blank that I will cut down to 6' 8.75" to net a 6'9" finished
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Sounds like a successful build. How many feet (or > yards) longer did your new rod cast? A country mile. LOL
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I have built a couple on the Gamma Beta and about to start another. Have not messed with any of the X-Rays. Compared to a NRX in the same weight and a Sage One, I would say somewhere in between with it being a little closer to the NRX in stiffness. I have not compared them though with the CCS so this is general opinion.
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Just an observation; when I set my reel down I always do it toward the handle so it rest on the handle and not the flat side of the reel. There is always some kind of dirt or sand and I don't want my expensive reel laying on its flat side in it but rather propped up on the handle and the bottom reel seat / trigger, out of the muck. I also cast a right hand reel with my right hand, so casting over
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I typically use a RV 6 for a stripper with the line at center ring usually at 20" or 21" from the reel face or level wind. The reels are Shimano Curado, Metanium, Core, Aldebaran or 13 Fishing A, and Z low profile. Works great for me. The Fuji PB blanks need the guides spaced somewhat closer together near the tip section because of the larger butt section of the blank that does not ben
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A baitcaster can still out cast a spinning reel with the wind, but against the wind, the spinning set up rules. I guess I do so many spiral wraps the layout is no faster to me than a conventional caster. The time consumption is in getting the guides in straight alignment to each other and the reel. If I was doing conventional with all guides on top, I would add another guide to keep the line off
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A few years back I was building on them quite a bit, especially the M1 blanks. I also have built on the K2s and the Bass Recon 2s. The only problems I have had was with the M1 blanks that I had built for some tournament fishermen and a few other people. Most of the M1 blanks broke, some I would say because of abuse but a couple not so much. I have no issues at all with the K2s or the Bass Recons
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I will spine the blank just to see how close it is to the straightest axis. Remember, the guides are going to make the blank bend where it is supposed to. You really have to build it as Tom has described because it will look like a crooked dinosaurs back if you don't. On occasion the straightest axis will match the spine.
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On that size reel I would use a KL-H 20, You could probably get away with a KL-H 16 but I like the height of the 20 and it can go a little closer to the reel than the 16.
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That is a masterpiece!
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X whatever, 20 mm ring on a high frame guide then 10 H, 6 M the rest 5s or 4.5s. For a 3000 size spool the 20 is better to me. If the spool diameter was smaller I would use a 16.
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Mully, These are from Mudhole on the left; Fuji SV Double foot guides. From the web I found photos of some of the casting rods from Heddon Pal. When I first started building rod I used these 30 years ago and they look like what is in the photos. Schreck
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Does the rod have a number on it? I believe they put numbers for what model rod line it was. I can look at pictures on line and may be able to tell what guides they used by that number. How are you coming up with the ring size (or guide size)? If you measure the outer frame of the ring in millimetres that will be the correct ring size for the guide. The guide sizes you mentioned seem a bit small
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