The difference in weight of stainless framed guides and Titanium frames in almost negligible with small guides. The SIC ring material actually weights more than the Alconite so you are not going to see any difference in performance because they are almost equal. You sound like you are using a 6mm RV and 5mm KB / KTs and maybe even 4mm rings. When they get that small the weights are all over the p
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Reaming out grips for Fuji Point Blank blanks or any wide butt blank can be more difficult because you are taking off more of the core material, so the grip itself will be thinner. There is a greater risk of being uneven and with a grip that is closer to the blank, the flaw is more noticeable. I use dream reamers to start on a cordless drill but then I have a longer reamer that is wider at the
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Say Herb, Are they lighter than the comparable Fuji KW Ti framed guide? Thanks, Lance
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There are no dirty sides if you do it right. Just do the tag before you rap over the foot and close to it. If you do it right after it, will want to unravel and not be tight. Messy.
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Don't make it harder than it should be, just compare to what you know and make it better.
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Mike the test drive would be the ultimate decider but I believe that you need to have an idea of the action that you would want, for instance; do you want something fast, something slow or in between. Once you get that figured out you would have a better chance of getting one that you have not tried but based on the manufacture's description of the action. I have not found too many duds in 3wt b
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Hopefully Fuji has come to their senses and is about to re-interduce an Alconite ring in a Titanium frame.
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Go with REC TiCr double foot snakes, they are most likely half the weight of the chrome plated guides that are on there and they won't corrode. I like Fuji KW with Ti frames for strippers. Not sure of the weight compared to the Cerecoil guides. Go with whatever is lighter in weight.
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Clayton, Sounds like you should do a spinning rod and a spiral wrap bait-caster. Because of the corrosive nature of saltwater, I would use guides as Mark suggested like the CC coated Fuji frames or titanium (Ti) framed guides. Fuji, REC and Seaguide make some readily available Ti framed guides with the Seaguide being a little less costly, the ring material really is not that important because a
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I use a white peel off China marker. After I set the guide and wrap to where the guide will stay on, I remove the mark with acetone and continue the wrap.
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Back in the nineties my go to blanks were the G Loomis IMX 1 pc medium light in different lengths. They had the perfect strength to weight ratio I was looking for. The HM at the time was not really lighter and it was very susceptible to breaking. After going on a stretch after Shimano bought G Loomis and they quit selling to the public, I really just stopped building for a bit because everything
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Just get more than 6 wraps over and it should stay. Fuji thread is a polyester and most of your other wrapping threads are nylon. Polyester thread does not stretch as much as nylon. For me it is easier to use nylon because of the stretch, but because polyester thread does not have the same elasticity, you have to apply different techniques to use it optimally. The tension will need to be adjusted
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You can really do it all in one area but you will need to be able to clean between different tasks. If you are limited to space and have to shape grips on your wrapping stand then you just do your grips first and anything that will make it dusty / dirty then vacuum it up the best you can before the next step of wrapping and epoxy. I do everything in the garage but do the grip shaping and sandin
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I have a lot of cork grips rods that I have built in the last 30 years and the only problems that I have experienced is it drying out and getting a little brittle or getting dirty. I will clean with DA or acetone and apply mink oil or Kiwi neutral shoe polish in the little tin about once a year to keep it from drying out too much. I used mink oil for a while but it had an odor so started using th
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My buddy builds quite a few PBs for bass and uses a lot of the MHXF and HXF blanks. Those may be better suited to the divers. They have a thicker tip section.
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Seaguide, an alternate light ceramic Titanium framed guide that cost less than the comparative Fuji guides. The weight of these guides as well as Fuji are just as light or lighter than the Minimas.
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The RV 6 has the correct height for placement from the low profile reel face or level wind at about 20" to 22". In order to get the line in straight alignment you will need to adjust the next KW 5.5 and the KB 4.5 spacing, then you can start your running train and space as needed per static testing. The RV 6 has the height enough height, so it is not needed to use a larger guide. The
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If you want white on clear labels here is a solution. I have an older version that uses the same cartridge. I also had some made from Decal Connection and another source by my house. / /
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Sensitive / adjective 1. quick to detect or respond to slight changes, signals, or influences. Direct contact real seats that are sized to the blank are going to be more sensitive than a seat with a foam core. I believe a baitcaster type rod is going to be more sensitive than a spinning because you are always in direct contact with the reel and the seat at the same time whereas with a spinn
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Scott, Put epoxy down first on the area where the decal is going and let it harden (usually about 8 hours). Apply the decal and put 2 coats of CP over it, making sure to cover the edges. The method I use to apply epoxy on long areas is to load the brush and make linear strokes from one end to the other in a brush width of the radius and then turn the blank and repeat with a slight overlap of the
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I think this is what you may like: North Fork Composites P 703-1 (HM / LMX) Medium Light Power and Fast Action. The price displayed is the retail price of the blank so once you put it in your cart it will give you the wholesale price.
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I travel a lot and need a light pair of wading boots for my bag. The Soft Science Terrafin lace up wading boot is very light with a Trileon sole that really clings to slippery rocks without cleats or felt. They also dry faster than any boot I have ever owned. I have used them from Patagonia to Wyoming. I fish a lot of saltwater at home and use the Soft Science Fin fishing zip up boot an sandy b
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The correct way to finish sand EVA is with a Scotch Brite type fine sanding pads like 3M Ultra Fine sanding pads. These are only to give it that correct finish that looks right and not to shape. Use them after the regular 220 grit. Also use a light touch with EVA because it can overheat and begin melt when shaping.
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Fastest speed is best for soft cork and a light touch. You tend to dig into it when it is turning slow.
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I taught my daughters to fly cast at 4 and 6. It was pretty funny giving them spinning rods when they were your grandchildren's age and watching them strip off line and try to cast, Now whenever I ask them if they want to go fishing they tell me "only if it's not fly fishing". Don't worry those kids will be able to cast a spinning rod and reel pretty quick.
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This is on the Sage Rod building site. I have found that manufactures spacing is very good if followed correctly, even if it is a little generic. You will need to enter the blank Family in a drop down menu then the model number in another drop down menu and it will bring up the recommended guide spacing.
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Painting the blank will slow it down a little and take away from the sensitivity. The most sensitive a blank can be is no coating and just finish sanded. Don't hurt the blanks feelings, don't paint it. It will never be the same.
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As Norm stated burl and rubberized cork is heavier. Natural cork is the lightest material of any.
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OK, replace bumper guide with rub prevention guide, of course a while back you were calling it a bumper guide when others were calling it a transition guide. Whatever we call it, we seem to know what it is. I do not like a simple spiral on a rod longer than 6'6". My thought is that if I can get the 1st 180 degree guide behind the major arc of the rod then the rod will work better for fightin
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I always use tape to build up the diameter of the mandrel then slip firmly the cork on. They have little cork plugs to to put in the hole at the center of the cork at the butt. A lot of times it's hard to find different types of cork without a hole, so this works fine. To do butts I will extend the mandrel from the chuck slightly longer than the butt piece. I will build up the end of the mandrel
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