Just an FYI as far as the sizing on the MVT casting seats go. They are sized at the end of the threaded barrel, and not at the back of the seat. I learned this the semi hard way when I had to reorder a couple of seats. If you measure the blank where you want the back of the reel seat to be, order the next size smaller seat, and ream it to fit. Of course, my recommendation is based on a rod b
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What Tom said ..... except that I start at the tip of the foot and work my way towards the body of the guide. As others have said, it's quick and easy and works perfectly.
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Dean, you're right ..... who knows. I went out to the boat and brought both of the rods I built on what I think are MB 736 blanks. What you said about the numbers I quoted as sounding more like an SJ 736, and the numbers that Norman quoted for the MB 736 got me wondering. So I tested both rods. I got an IP of 793 for the one rod, and an IP of 815 for the other. The AAs were 75 and 74, respect
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Dean, I did CCS tests on one of the rods I built on the MB 736 X ray. I came up with an IP of 793, and an AA of 75.
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Gary, I would think 1/8" as your smallest band isn't going to do you a lot of good down near the tip of the blank. The Mud Hole tubing I talked about earlier starts and 1/16" ID, and goes up from there. I like it because I can cut it as wide as I want it, which really comes in handy for the longer feet on certain guides, like those of the reduction train guides for spinning rods
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lol Brian .......... I don't mean to laugh, but I had to. lol As far as the "some bad words were said" goes. Oh I bet LOL
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David, agreed, because they have the blank at an angle, those deflection pictures are very misleading. But like you said they give at least some sort of idea. Like you said, the picture with 24 oz hanging from the tip clearly shows the blank is over loaded if you doing a CCS test. Interesting that you mentioned a Pac Bay Quickline blank. I have a rod built on a QLSJ 782, I just did a CCS IP t
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David, thank you very much for taking the time to test, and for posting your results. I have to say your numbers are surprising and a little disheartening. Surprising because of the lure weight ratings and type of action it is listed at on NFCs web site, and disheartening in that I was hoping the the numbers would have been higher. Based on some of the rods I've tested with similar lure weigh
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My dumbest ...... I was cleaning up the boat after a days fishing. I had stood a few of my rods up beside the boat to put them back in the rod locker. One of the rods had a crankbait tied to the line and I wanted to clip it off before putting that rod in the locker. My line snips were sitting in the bottom of the boat just out of reach so I kind of did a little jump to reach the clippers and o
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Keith, if you aren't doing so already, use two lines for your static testing. Tie a line to your tip top, and use that line to load the blank. The second line is running from your reel through your guides and the tip top. You only need about 1/4 - 3/8 oz of weight attached to that line. Just enough to keep the line taunt. The rubber bands others are talking about will have more than enough power
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David, please post those CCS numbers for the SJ 703 X ray when you do them. I am very interested in that blank. I've been wanting to build a new spinning rod to replace a rod I sold to my tournament partner. I was just about to pull the trigger on a Carbon 4 blank from Rod Geeks, but the availability factor right now has that on hold. I've built 2 rods on the MB 736 X ray blanks that Paul mention
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Clearly it's more the speed and manner in which you're mixing versus what you're actually mixing with, stir stick, popsicle stick, metal spatula, etc ... The simple process of moving a solid object through a liquid creates a vortex behind the object. which has the potential for introducing air into the mixture. A textured surface, (a wooden popsicle stick) because of its increased surface area an
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That's all I've ever used. I like it a lot. I used to use the regular formula, but because I was mistakenly shipped the wrong product, I used the high build formula. I liked it even better so that's what I have been using on my last 4 builds. It's thicker than the regular formula but it still levels fairly quickly. I like it a lot.
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Keith, how hard are you pushing on the blank? You don't really need to put a big bow in the blank, so it doesn't take a lot of pressure. I will say that the further away from the tip your support hand is, the more it takes to get the blank to roll because you have to push harder on the blank to make it bow. One thing is for sure, you want the butt of the blank on a smooth hard surface. Now I
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Ben, I get what you're saying, but for me my adding weight to the butt of the rod to get the balance point I want, is all about being able to use the rod efficiently, and comfortably. I'd rather add weight than change the way I hold the rod. For instance .... how people a spinning rod. I know a lot of people that hold a spinning rod with 3 fingers in front of the reel's stem, with just the pinky
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lol ben ....... no no nooooo lol I was talking about Steve's first post. His feelings are the exact same as mine. I have zero problem adding weight to the butt of a rod to get the desired tip light feeling that I like.The rod may be heavier but you don't feel it. And actually it will make the rod feel lighter in your hand because you aren't working your forearm and wrist. The only area Steve
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Personally I wouldn't use fiberglass blanks for either of those rods. I'd also use blanks with different actions. For the spinnerbait I'd be looking for a fast action blank rated 1/4 - 3/4 oz lures. Length is a matter of personal choice. I myself have 2 rods for spinnerbaits. One is an old 5'6" Shimano Speedmaster Fighting Rod with a pistol grip. I use that for short casts, usually 30' or le
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Steve buried a 16 penny nail in a solid oak board with one swing of he hammer.
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Norman, roger that. I just applied my practice decal. The plastic peeled off rather easily after I burnished the decal. I also have to say to Phil Erickson if he is reading this thread, that I used his method of applying decals that I read when I did a search on the subject. It turned out perfect. Having the bed of finish just to the point of not fingerprinting allows the edge of the decal to
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Frank, I wrap my guides tight as well. Not as tight as you described on that first rod, but tight enough that I sometimes have to use a fingernail to push the guide foot to straighten it out. I personally don't use a tension rod. I had one on a hand wrapper that I built but I didn't like it. It was just another thing to be in the way of my hands when I do a trim band or a thread inlay in a wrap.
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I'd like to piggy back on this thread if I could. I built a couple of rods on X ray blanks last year, but I didn't receive any decals with them. I recently contacted NFC about getting two decals for those blanks, and I received them just this past week. They actually sent me the wrong ones the first time, which turns out to be a blessing as I have yet to put a decal on any of the rods I've built.
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Brian, as you've already contemplated by your comments ... having a rod that will rip a trap out of grass, yet be soft enough in the upper 1/3 of the blank to really let them eat it well, makes blank selection a bit tricky. The two requirements just don't go hand in hand all that well. Personally, I know I wouldn't go with any thing slower than a moderate fast action blank. And I'd be looking at
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Here's a thought Phil ..... using the CCS as your vehicle, do a test to determine the IP of one of the rods you used for your ..... experiment. Convert the amount of weight it took to deflect the rod 1/3 of its length and convert that weight to ounces. Once you've done that, use that amount of weight for your experiment, and report back your results.
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Hearsay: noun, unverified, unofficial information gained or acquired from another and not part of one's direct knowledge: Marketing: noun, : the process or technique of promoting, selling, and distributing a product, or service Tarradiddle: noun, : fib, pretentious nonsense. And now, back to our regularly scheduled program
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Preposterous: adjective, Completely contrary to nature, reason, or common sense; absurd; senseless; utterly foolish:
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Foolishness: adjective, Lacking or exhibiting a lack of good sense or judgment; silly.
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Dennis, It's really up to your personal preference if the line touches the blank, or not. Whatever you do, DO NOT let the line pass entirely below the blank between guides. Despite what you may have read, that is not general practice, that is just bad guide spacing. Bad guide spacing to the point that it has the potential to damage the rod. However, many builders don't mind the line coming in co
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I don't know if it's ok to post a link to a Youtube video. My apologies if it isn't, and of course I'd expect it to be deleted. But this is the video I learned how to do trim bands. I wrap the trim band by hand. I tried the method shown in the video, but I start my main wraps pretty close to the end of the guide foot, and paying attention to the main wrap thread and the trim band thread was just
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Count me in on doing trim bands the way Mike Canavan described. It isn't difficult at all. And while it does add time, that time is nothing compared to the hours of enjoyment you get out of the appearance of your rod. For me, the real pain is doing a thread inlay in the middle of a wrap. Securing the tag ends is simple enough, it's just having to work with the ring of the guide in such close prox
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Curves in 2 different directions? Oh yeah, that baby is going back.
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