Yes, the RodGeek paint job is durable. Norm
Forum: rodboard

I was a research scientist and teacher before I retired. Because of my training I am a very skeptical and curious person, who likes to experiment by testing and comparing. When I hear people touting something as the ‘best’ my skepticism and curiosity instantly kicks so I get my hands on the product and start, testing and comparing to see if it’s hype or not. Over the past few years, I have bough
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David, I did not do a Rod Deflection Analysis (RDA) method to compare the X-ray to the PB I used the CCS method. They are similar yet different. I prefer the CCS because it involves the entire length of the rod rather than just a portion of the rod. The RDA power numbers and action angle numbers are always lower because because you are using less of the blank in the analysis. Norm
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Herb I am not trying to make the PB sound like a real bargain. It is an expensive rod, but still less expensive than the current X-ray price. When the X-ray blanks were on sale for 65% off they were a bargain. The point I was trying to make is if you buy solely based on price or name and believe you are getting the best product, this is, in my opinion, a false perception, and I will stick by that
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Carol, I completely agree. It would really be a helpful thing if the Expo set up a CCS station, where people could bring blanks they are interested in buying and get CCS data on them. I don’t know if this would scare away any sponsors or not. If you have noticed, when blank reccomendations come up, I have recentlbgive IP numbers if I have them. I have to admit I have been very remiss in measuring
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I know you were kidding, just throwing it back to you. I was not trying to dissuade anyone from buying from NFC, they make a very fine product. I was trying to point out that there are a lot other high end products out there, that are also excellent products at a lower coat. I know the Loomis name is legendary, and a lot of people are willing to buy their product at a higher price without knowi
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I’m not an electrical engineer, but from what I understand the only way to get a reversible motor is to use a DC motor. You can switch polarity by flipping a switch, can’t do this with AC motors. Roger set me up with a reversible DC motor, control box ,and foot pedal for my Renzetti rod lathe. I have much more control with the new motor and foot pedal than I did with the motor and foot pedal supp
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I’m not about to do a breaking strength test, I’ll let you do that one! IP calculations objectively determine the amount of weight it takes to bend the rod 1/3 its total length; nothing more, nothing less. The Action Angle (AA) measures the angle the tip takes at this 1/3 bend point, nothing more nothing less. Both blanks had similar AA based on side by side comparisons. Total weight measuremen
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Thank you Mark. For most people when when the conversation turns to CCS data such has Intrinsic Power, Action Angles, ERN, and the such, their eyes glaze over! The take home message is that similarly rated blanks from different manfacturers are different. Norm
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Lance you are right, a couple of things I that have noticed about PB Rods is their unique feel and ability to easily cast a wide range of lures and weights. I just love the way they cast with a flick of the wrist, I also have rods made up on NFC HM, St Croix 5 and Eternity blanks, among others, but none have the same feel to me. However, I really do like a rod that feels light and responsive in h
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Thanks Jim. I assume you will bring some to the Expo so people can give them a wiggle along with the other models. Norm
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It could very well be a misprint on the NFC website, but it would not make a big difference in my comparisons. Whichever blank it was, it still had an IP of 674 g. So if was mislabeled on the website, the X-ray MB736 is still listed as MH/F, with a similar line and lure weights and a published weight of 2 oz, basically the same as the X-ray SJ736. I also measured a NFC705HM blank for comparison
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I recently discovered that both the Point Blank and new NFC X-Ray blanks were designed by Al Jackson, a well respected blank designer, and both use high modulus graphite in a unique scrim less blank design. Because of this, I thought it would be interesting try to give an objective and unbiased comparison between an X-ray blank with a similarly rated Point Blank. I ordered an NFC X-ray MB736,
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You will have no problem pushing the choke guide in or out a little to get a good looking progressive guide train. There is a lot of flexibility in putting a guide train together. For me a very simple way to check the alignment is to tape the guides in place and run the line from the reel through the guides and tie a light weight to the line, and let it hang from the tip. Now press the line agai
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The New Guide concept and the KR concept are two different animals. The KR concept was designed for use with braid and microguides. It utilizes high frame small ring reduction guides to rapidly choke and better control the line going to small low profile running guides. It performs extremely wel! The use of Minima M guides in the reduction train is very similar to using the Fuji KR concept KL-H g
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I would use a 5M guide in the reduction train followed by either 5F or 4wF runners all the same size. I think 14 guides is a little overkill, I would use 11 or at most 12. But that is your choice. You can experiments by using the various guide options and test cast and use the option that works the best for you. On longer rods the KR concept pushes the choke guide further out, so the reduction gu
Forum: rodboard

We use to make a two piece rods using a graphite or fiberglass sleeve as a ferrule. For example, use a piece of blank that will perfectly fits over your broken rod sections with about a 2” overlap on each side of the break. Glue the sleeve to the tip section of your broken rod, and trim the butt section a little to allow for wear. This will give you a tip over butt ferrule. I wrap both ends of th
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Is it a spigot ferrule or a tip over butt ferrule? If a spigot ferrule do as Tom states, trim the female portion. However, I suspect it is a tip over butt ferrule since with most spigot ferrules the male portion is solid fiberglass and thus doesn’t have a plug. If is is a tip over butt ferrule, you will need to trim the male part of the ferrule to tighten the fit. Some rods with tip over butt f
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Tom, I will be here and looking forward to seeing you again. Norm
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The RodGeeks casting reel seats are ECSM seats and the ID that actually fits the blank is in the rear half of the seat. The front half of the seat has an ID of about 15 mm (same as most16mm reel seats). So buy a seat with an ID a little smaller than the OD of the blank at 5" from the butt. The seat can be easily reamed to fit. When I use the ECSM seat I glue a 1"-1.5" piece of a po
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Jeremy when you replace the tip top don’t use epoxy or super glue! Herb is absolutely correct use hot melt tiptop/ferrule cement.The hot melt cement will securely hold the tip top on and I’ll be easy to remove when necessary. Epoxy or super glue cause more problems then it’s worth when you need to subsequently need to remove the tip top. In fortunately way too many Rod manufacturers use epoxy o
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Dr PH. Matins iridescent calligraphy ink is not a water based ink! It is a permanent waterproof, UV resistant, and archival ink that can be thinned with alcohol. It is more more resistant to smearing then any other ink or paint that I have ever used, and I have used most of them. Dr PH.Martins also make India inks, acrylic, and water color products. If you are using the iridescent calligraphy in
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I use Dr. PH. Martens iridescent gold calligraphy ink all the time. Never had it dissolved by CP. I don't use Flexcoat CP, but I have coated this ink with Chromaseal CP, finish epoxy and even Permagloss with no problems. In my opinion it is the best ink you can use for writing on a blank. Don't know what went wrong, unless you coated immediately after use, or applied the CP aggressively. Norm
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I agree with Roger, just glue the sucker up and go with it. Norm
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I picked up a couple of the Get Bit 10’ speckled perch rods. They are more like a medium to medium/heavy salmon/steelhead blanks, more stout and faster than most commercial crappie jig rods like B’n’M. Has plenty of power in the butt section, so if you are pulling crappie out of pads and structure they should work fine. I built one of them as a long spin rod for use as a float and jig rod. Used
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To lighten the handle, some will drill the handle to a accept a 20mm polyurethane shim. After gluing the shim in place it can be reamed easily to fit the blank. Norm
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It breaks my heart whenever a policeman is killed in the line of duty. They put their lives on the the line everyday to keep us safe. Your son-in-law Sean is a true hero. My prayers and sincerest condolences go out to you, your daughter, and all of Sean’s family members. There has been a Memorial Fund setup for Sean Tudor’s Family. Norm
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Ok, Jeremy Reed is another name to add to my contact list. I might contact you about another stand for my Renzetti wrapper. Norm
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Yes, all of these videos are very helpful. I think Jeremy’s problem deals with his inexperience and the total cost invoked to just wrap one guide doing it by himself, as he is unsure if he wants to get into the rod building hobby. For example, two 100 yd spools of thread about $10, a 2oz Flexcoat epoxy finish kit about $14, or a ProKote 6gm packet for $2.25, plus shipping. Also need a cheap dis
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I think Robert is talking about gorilla glue epoxy, not the original expanding wood glue. It is a 5 min epoxy and I don’t see any reason why it wouldn’t work just fine for reel seats. Norm
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