Your layout will work just fine.. I think you will be very happy with its performance. Norm
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I’ve mention this before in past posts that I look at the line path as an easy way to bullseye the reductions train. I put the reel on the rod and run the line through all the guides and tie a light weight to the end of the line and let it hang from the tip. With the rod held horizontal, I press the line to the bottom of the reel spool and look at the line path. What I’m looking for is a straight
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That’s fine. If you don’t mind using non progressive spacing then do it. It just makes no sense to me, it’s certainly not necessary, and it aesthetically doesn’t look right. So, I definitely won’t do it, but that’s just me. Norm
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Have you ever seen a rod bend non-progressively? Ever since I can remember guides have alway been placed progressively to accommodate the smooth progressive bending of a rod. Using non progressive spacing probably won’t make much of a functional difference, but it’s certainly not needed. Anglers Resource under the guidance of Jim Ising commissioned development of the KR GPS, Fuji was not involved
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If you add up the numbers in that Fuji alignment diagram, you will notice that the distance from the butt guide to the tip top is 124.5 cm. Exactly the number I came up with based on Joshua’s input into the KR-GPS. So the Fuji layout would also be valid for Joshua’s 6’6” rod. The handle length for the Fuji diagram is either longer than Joshua’s or they placed the butt guide further out from the
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There is a lot of flexibility in setting up a KR guide train. The GPS gives you a suggestion for good starting position, it’s not written in stone. Spacing will be determined by the number of guides you are using and the static test. Don’t be afraid to move the choke point in or out to a achieve good progressive spacing. Non progressive spacing bugs the heck out of me, and it certainly isn’t nee
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In my opinion, the non progressive spacing is due to a glitch in the GPS program. Just switch the last two measurements around and you will be fine. Jim Ising the person involved with developing the program, agreed with me. PS - The GPS tends to under estimate the number of running guides needed. So you may need and extra runner. In my opinion, you are borderline between using 8 or nine guides
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Les - Yes you are correct, the fourth reduction guide is placed in the choke position. The Anglers Resource article on KR groups does mention the use of a four guide reduction train for light powered and/or long rods. Fuji also developed some of their KR ‘high belly’ guides for use in a more conventional guide setup where size 6 or larger running guides can used. Norm
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I’ve built thousands of rods over the past 55 years and don’t use a power wrapper. Just don’t like using them. To me, they are awkward to use and slow me down. I wrap faster without one. The one I have is used only for turning grips. Similar to you, I find wrapping the easiest and quickest part of building a rod. I also find it very relaxing. If you don’t mind hand wrapping, then don’t waste you
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With the four guide reduction train, the fourth guide serves as the choke (high belly) guide. So, the reduction train length doesn’t really change; the choking is still very rapid. However, the higher choke guide may help the line ‘round the corner’ a little better, especially on long and slow action rods that bend deep into the butt section. They also work well on shorter and faster rods but pro
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The Fuji UltraPoly thread comes in two different types; regular and NOCP. If the spool doesn’t state NOCP then it isn’t. The regular thread will require CP to maintain the color, otherwise it will darken and become more translucent. The NOCP thread will retain it color and remain opaque without the need for CP. Norm
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Les - The C6O2 X-ray blanks I have are not sanded and thus have the resin ridges. If you want to smooth the blank, I’ve used 800 to1000 grit wet/dry paper to wet sand the blank. You can even go with a finer grit (1000 to 2000) if you wish. This is more like buffing or polishing the blank rather than sanding it. You will notice that during the sanding process the water will look milky; this is the
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One of the reasons I like the Fuji VSS17 and IPS seats, is you don’t have to go way up in iD or weight to get a very comfortable OD without looking disproportionately large. The seat and handle combine to give you a larger OD. In addition, they give a light, sleek, seamless, and good looking grip that comfortably fits your hand. The AmTac Aero reel also gives you a large OD without looking clunk
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I use the Fuji IPS or VSS17 reel seat and grip combo. They both have an OD of about 27 mm at the point where you hold the reel. Very comfortable. I use cork or NFC carbon fiber grips with them. The VSS16 seat and grip has a smaller OD of about 23 mm, which is approximately the same OD as a size 20 DPS reel seat, but not nearly as clunky looking. Norm
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David - I have not used these XO skeleton grips yet, but will probably try them. Your post was quite helpful and gives a lot of insight into how these grips are installed. I completely missed that only 1.75” of the blank was actually glued into spinning grip. Based on the picture shown by NFC on its web site, it certainly looked like about 4” of the blank was glued into the seat. From this pictu
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The polished stainless Sic guides are a perfect match for titanium Sic guides. However, the polished silver frame doesn’t come with Alconite rings, only Sic rings which make the guides more expensive. So, if you want to save money and use Alconite rings then the CC frame is a close, but not perfect, match to the titanium frame. The T2 titanium Sic guides are a close, but not perfect, match to the
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I’ve been around rod building for a very long time, and can honestly say that I’ve had no problems with NFC’s customer service. They have alway been prompt, friendly and helpful. They may have had some growing pains when they first transitioned to a factory direct sales strategy, but if there were problems they certainly fixed them and moved on. It appears that NFC products are extremely popular
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Back in the 70s and 80 the Lew’s Speed Grips were very popular. They could either be glued directly to the blank or used with a ferrule to make them removable. The points is they held up remarkably well with an overlap of about 2” or less. Aleks make a great point about ferruled rods holding up extremely well even when large and powerful fish are targeted. I would have no problems with the 4” ove
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Daniel - A good friend informed me that most reels are not painted but rather anodized Here is a link that may get you on the right track. Norm
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Carolina Cast Pro. Norm
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How are you measuring your epoxy; with syringes or by weight? Norm
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You can get down locking reel seats with inletted fighting butts for Euro nymphing rods at a number of different places. Just search Euro nymphing reel seats. . Norm
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Aleks - Ok, I understand now. Thanks! Sorta of what I thought. Their lightness and looks have me wanting to try a couple. For casting reel seats requiring an insert, I only use half an insert, just enough to be exposed in the reel seat cut out. I shim the threaded barrel end of the seat with a piece of polyurethane foam arbor. Get two inserts for the price of one, plus it cuts down on the total w
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How are the casting reel seats installed? I’m having a problem visualizing how these exposed blank casting reel seats work without the need for the reel seats coming with different IDs to fit various blank ODs, or without the need for an insert. Just scratching my head. Norm
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You can certainly go directly from the KL5.5M to the same size running guides of your choice. No need to use a larger choke guide, but it does not hurt if you want a larger choke. As far as running guide size is concerned, it depended on your preference, leader knots used, and weather. Some people don’t like really small runners, others want to go as small as possible. When using10 pound braid wi
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I agree with Kevin. A size16 based reduction train is more than sufficient for what you want. It is especially good when using light braid on a size 30/3000 or smaller reel. If you want to use a larger reel with heavier line, then a size 20 based reduction might give you a little more versatility. Norm
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If it’s still tacky after 5 days, something is wrong. Probably due to poor mixing, a poor mix ratio or a contaminant problem. Try a third coat and see what happens. Norm
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Fuji guides are of high quality, which are why they are preferred by many on this site. The K in K series guides stands for tangle free since they a frame with a forward sloping guide ring which help prevent line loops from tangling around the guide. This design has been copied by several other companies. The guide set you mention (T2-LRVTG108) is a basic cone of flight (COF) set up, which con
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You could try to piece together two 12” CF grips or a 12” and 14” grip from NFC. The 27mm ODs of the two grips will match up perfectly, just need to remove the tenons for alignment. If necessary the seam could be over wrapped and epoxied, or just epoxied. Might work. Norm
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What blank was used for your co-worker’s rod? There may be a modern version of his broken rod which might make him happy. I’ve built several rods for casting lures for inshore species including pompano, rather than for soaking a bait on the bottom. I think the hotshot blank may work just fine. It might be a little overkill, but not sure since I have not used that particular model. I’ve used MHX
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