Agreed - they have always been excellent with any issues. Hopefully - whatever changes they have going on will be over soon and they will remain a good source for blanks/seats.
Forum: rodboard

I put finish on checks - I find it easier to get the edge I want at the top edge. I have also use winding checks as a ramp for thread and then finish. This is easier and less time consuming for me than building the ramp out of epoxy.
Forum: rodboard

Yes - I read that on one of your earlier posts Tom. I have left them 3 phone messages as well - they don’t answer. I even sent an email to St Crox in a desperation attempt - BUT - I will continue !
Forum: rodboard

I received a couple of blanks from Rodgeeks about 3 weeks ago - they were inshore blank - MH 12-20#. Anyway, there was a line that was visible from the butt to the tip - it looked like a joint in the Scrim on both blanks. I have tried to contact them with 4 emails and 4 voicemails - I have received NO RESPONSE! I have never bought blanks with just the clear coat on them and like the rings I see
Forum: rodboard

You are spot on about what I’m talking about Chuck - maybe your explanation will bring us the answers we are looking for!
Forum: rodboard

Mark, The only issue I have is the teeth of the blade look like the olive leaves on my JTOB - NOT like saw blade teeth like the ones I have seen. I think I will try making the blade teeth and body out of d thread just to see if it makes a difference. Like I said before - I watch Doc’s video (I have watch them all at least once and love them all!) a number of times - it’s actually the only one I
Forum: rodboard

I’ve watched Doc Ski’s video a a few times but even when he showed the end result it didn’t look like some of the ones I seen posted - the blade part looks thicker(on the pics) - almost like the teeth cover 2 incoming threads - and some of them look like the teeth are tapered - if that makes any sense???????
Forum: rodboard

Hi all! I am very satisfied with my results when doing a JTOB jnlay. I have recently tried the saw tooth inlay and I’m not getting the results I want. I have seen some beautiful saw tooth inlays on some of the forums and there must be something I’m missing! Any help would great!
Forum: rodboard

All you carbon fiber grip builders- I am starting to collect some short drop pieces of the foam cores - do you guys/girls put them together for reuse? If so, do you use thread epoxy to glue them together?
Forum: rodboard

Hey guys, I think I may have gotten to the root of the evil. (Part of it anyway). I sanded the grips back to the carbon. Then I added another coat of the aero marine epoxy. I let it rest for 10 min after mixing for 6 min. It didn’t thicken up a lot but I put it on anyway - then MAJOR tiny air bubbles! I heated it but they seemed to keep coming. So, I left that one (foregrip) to turn under my dr
Forum: rodboard

I will Bob, But not sure what it could be - using the same epoxy through the process. I am going to sand it out again closer to the Carbon fiber and run at it again!
Forum: rodboard

Bob, Foam core purchased from Mudhole So no form release Only NEW sandpaper to shape the foam core No wood tools No anti corrosion used Foam core is on a mandrel No release agent used Used new nitrile gloves to tighten up wetted out carbon to foam core Used new brush to apply epoxy Used new mixing cup to mix epoxy with epoxy mixer Everything seems to work and look fine
Forum: rodboard

Wow! It got worse gentlemen! I tried the thicker coat but the epoxy started repelling from A LOT of spots - again the phot is not great but I think you can get the jest of the problem! I would really like to know what the heck is going on ! 7 years building and never this problem! Ask any question you can think of
Forum: rodboard

Mark, The epoxy I am using is aeromarine 300 with aeromarine non blushing cycloaliphatic epoxy hardener 21. The reason my photo looks foggy is that it has been sanded with the shiny spots being the low areas. I am about to apply another coat of epoxy as we speak! I will see how it works!
Forum: rodboard

The reason behind the color preserver (in my mind) was using it almost like a bonding agent ( in the event I had contamination ) especially in the lower areas (craters). Just tried something different. Like you said Spencer - I haven’t heard of anyone doing it either. I will be adding another coat this afternoon and will do as Tom recommended. I will let the epoxy rest long enough to thicken a bi
Forum: rodboard

Tom, You are correct - I tried sanding them out but was getting to close for comfort to the carbon. I would like to know why you think the craters are there to start with. This grip is not a MUST save as I wasn’t happy with the straightness of my carbon fiber. With that said - I sanded, then added a thin coat of color preserver and will let it dry before adding the next coat of epoxy. Again, w
Forum: rodboard

Hello all! I have been trying my hand at Carbon fiber grip making. 1. Measure, cut, form foam core - NO PROBLEM 2. Wet out foam core, put on the carbon sleeve, wet out - NO PROBLEM 3. Add additional coats of the same epoxy (aeromarine #300 with aeromarine #21 hardener - BIG PROBLEM!!! When I add additional coats I start getting what I will call - craters. I don’t touch the grip after the
Forum: rodboard

I have actually caused the micro bubbles during the application Process! High lathe speed, rough finish ( like carbon fiber), to much pressure at the brush = micro bubbles!???????????. I recently started applying finish with a brush and using the small spatula to spread down the blank. Basically, I’m saying you can cause the micro bubbles during your application process! As Tom Kirkman states -
Forum: rodboard

Bryan, I am having the same issues with the CFX material you described above. Did you ever chase down the problem?
Forum: rodboard

Tom - So if I understand - it is basically the same. In that case - can the laminating epoxy be used for thread wraps?
Forum: rodboard

But when multiple layers or coats of thread finish are put on the threads - isn’t that kinda the same process?
Forum: rodboard

What is the difference in the 5 to 1 epoxy sold with the carbon fiber grip kits and the 1 to 1 epoxy we use for thread wraps, etc.? Can the thread finish epoxy be used for building the carbon fiber grips?
Forum: rodboard

Vacuum wouldn’t work any way - it grows in seconds - not minutes - you would never have enough time to get it in the mold.
Forum: rodboard

As I stated above - I am back to report. I purchased small paint mixer and adjusted the fins so it would fit all the way to the bottom of a plastic SOLO cup. I mixed full speed (approximately 1700 rpm) for 20 seconds, then immediately poured it in the bottom half of my mold, put the mandrel in place, set the top of the mold and clamped it in place. Prior to pouring, I warmed the silicone mo
Forum: rodboard

Yes, I read that as well. I am going to heat my silicone mold in the oven prior to casting the next core.
Forum: rodboard

Tom, I have ordered (Rod maker)10-6 and 11-1 (have already received - waiting on the prior) this issue so I will be better educated with this foam core technique soon. As far as my mold - I have air vents to release the air as much as possible, and have read that applying back pressure to the foam will actually reduce air bubbles. I will update this post when I cast a few today. Spencer,
Forum: rodboard

I have made a Mold out of Silicone to cast my own foam cores for carbon fiber grips. My 1st attempts at this are definitely not acceptable. I will be picking up a paint mixer tomorrow to try it again. I had large air bubbles in the foam when I cut it open (for inspection) as well as resin visible instead of the cream colored foam. I attribute this to not being properly mixed. I will fix that iss
Forum: rodboard

Thanks Mark! Another option to test!
Forum: rodboard

Tom, Mike used a silicone tube that was split lengthwise so it could be opened up for the pouring process - then the silicone tube was sandwiched with 2 halves of pvc, capped on the ends and a ring for support in the middle. After it cured - he just pulled the pvc halves away and the silicone tube peeled away like a banana peel - this left a core with the mandrel in the center and an 1.25 in ID
Forum: rodboard

Tom, I agree, not trying to make things difficult at all - it seems to me that the mold system I am trying to research would be cleaner and use less materials - thus being more cost effective in the long run.
Forum: rodboard